NGWClub®, Inc.

Now that is interesting

Very neat idea ....

Gord

That is pretty cool!

CJ you never cease to amaze me!

CYBORG wrote:Now that is interesting

RAT wrote:Very neat idea ....

Gord

wingrider wrote:That is pretty cool!

Jonesz wrote:CJ you never cease to amaze me!

Thanks Everyone!
This project is finally at the point where it becomes fun!
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~CrazyJerry~

The early overall appearance of this bike seemed to warrant the need to incorporate fenders for both looks and functionality. Although it came with a custom made shorty rear fender, there was none for the front.
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The likelihood of matching that rear fender seemed an impossibility, but the idea of two new ones (a matched pair) was intriguing! A 10 minute search turned up a shorty pair on eBay. Mating the new shorty front fender with the existing shorty rear fender provided the following visual:
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Fenders yes, but that - no! So the next step was to compare the existing rear fender with the new one by placing it underneath the old fender - and in the same position. There was no magic....
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Taking the longer of the two new fenders, and placing it on the front tire was an instant hit:
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What if both new fenders were temporarily "taped" end to end to make a really long front fender? The difference was subtle but noticeable!
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From that moment on the stage would be set for long fenders! I contacted the creator of those fenders and that person, Aaron Richard of Revive Custom Motorcycles in Cumberland, Rhode Island, was commissioned to create a pair of aluminum fenders as close to 36" as possible. Using various tools, an english wheel, and his experience, the fenders were beautifully crafted:
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Once these new fenders arrived, they were placed on the tires and even though they were twins, the rear fender looked too short - or the front fender looked too long - depending on the point of view. And, that tail light seemed really out of place:
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The solution was to lengthen the rear fender by combining it, with one of the earlier shorty fenders and during that time, create a custom tail/brake light that uses the remaining aluminum from the salad bowl previously used to round-out the gas tank. All of this yields a cleaner look and better flow/transition from front to rear:
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To answer the question, "How about running no fenders?" Not a chance! The pics below show us what that would look like and also give us the first glimpse into replacing the front spoke wheel with a 1980 Comstar to match the rear. These reverse Comstar wheels are a key part of this build - but you'll have to wait to see how!:
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It's intermission time - go refill the popcorn and soda pop - hurry!!!!
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~CrazyJerry~

The rear fender's tail/brake light now make it a necessity to address the front fender with something similar. For this build, a very unique pre-war light was selected. :
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The chrome or nickel finish was sanded down to the brass below and a coat of high heat aluminum paint was applied and then it was baked in front of the portable kerosene heater for an hour:
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The removed baseplate was given a vinegar soak to remove any rust. Look at that vintage insulated brass electrical connector!!
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The baseplate was then sprayed with etch primer and painted a basic black:
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A pattern from the baseplate gives us a template used to measure it's new home on the front fender:
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The fender is marked and ready for drilling. There was a moment of silence paying respect to the fender that was about to have a few holes drilled into it:
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At this point, the pre-war light looks great on top of the front fender:
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The flight of this Goldwing is non-stop and the best is still yet to come, buckle up!!!!
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~CrazyJerry~

Hot Dang! No more waiting until Saturday for updates!

desertrefugee wrote:

desertrefugee wrote:Hot Dang! No more waiting until Saturday for updates!

Lol desertrefugee! That is the goal - full steam ahead!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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~CrazyJerry~

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~CrazyJerry~

This bike has no horn and one will be needed to announce one's arrival at a viking feast! (We also need one to pass New York State inspection.) With so little room to hide anything, the horn will be visible so it has to fit-in with the decor.
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For this build, WOLO's Airsplitter will be used. The set contains two horns, a compressor, and some weather caps:
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Mounting the direct drive compressor was fairly easy and there was a nice unused space just above the left side of the radiator:
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The best place to mount the actual horns, is on the left side and custom mounting had to be fabricated. The horns will also take the eye away from the front brake master cylinder that's mounted on the down tube.
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The open end of the horns can lead rain, debris, etc, on a direct path to the horn's diaphragms. To prevent this, the weather caps will be run full-time and since there were no mounting clips in the kit for them, a solution was found using shower drain strainers. These would allow a center adjustable mounting screw to join the horn to the weather caps:
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An ongoing goal with this build is to incorporate as much "original work" as possible to make this a true one-off build. With that in mind, a horn switch was constructed that will also help to give this bike a very timeless, racy, and classic appeal. The idea is simply to provide a path to ground for that air compressor. This is easily accomplished using the manual control lever itself as a ground, and when moved, it contacts a wire that runs straight to the ground tap on the compressor:
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The look fits the bike, works great, and is incredibly LOUD!:
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Using 180 grit sandpaper and a Scotch Brite pad the chrome was dulled down to be more inline with the bike's aluminum:
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There's more on tomorrow's menu so don't change that channel!
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~CrazyJerry~

The horn is awesome if it works from the handle!

can I offer an observation?
is it possible to get the radius of the rear fender to match the tire like the front one does? I think it would flow better..

Aaron does great work on his fenders. My buddy and I both had some made and couldn’t be happier. Bike is looking fantastic