The NGW Project Bike. Brake rebuild
Moderator: Whiskerfish
- octane
- SUPER BIKER!!!!
- Posts: 3763
- Joined: Sat Jun 11, 2005 3:24 pm
- Location: Denmark
The NGW Project Bike. Brake rebuild
IMPORTANT !
BEFORE YOU GO ON;
PLEASE READ *THIS*.
Please take into consiteration that you are dealing with brakes here;
they define the thin line between being a happy smiling GL rider
and a not-so-happy ex-GL rider in a wheelchair
or even a very dead GL rider.
If you haven't done this kind of thing before
please have someone qualified, check your work !
Thanks.
OK so lets have a look at the front master cylinder
(please note this is for the 75-77 range. The later models are a bit different)
here's an exploded view
you'll need to have parts ready for this.
I don't care what my brakes on a 'new' bike look like;
I'll rebuild them no matter what,
so I've bought
..2 sets of front caliber sealing kits (aftermarked)
..one front master cylinder rebuild set (genuine Honda)
..one rear master cylinder rebuild set (genuine Honda)
a few other parts ,like some sets of shims. Didn't know
they were available, but found them at CMS in Holland
The rear caliber sealing kit is still in the mail somewhere out there
OK so take the master cylinder off your bike
(remember; brake fluid is an exellent paint-strippe, so protect your paintwork)
and go to work.
Handle comes off
together with this plate
that hold this rubber-thingie.
Our friend Randakk has a nice little piece on the subject
of brake-handle and that rubber-thingie:
Odd Front Brake Lever Problem
then off comes this rubber boot
witch is held in place by a plastic washer and a clip
for the next step you gonna need one of these
now put the assembly in a wise (with those aluminum/rubber protectors you can see on the photo)
down here you'll see the circlip that keeps hold of all the parts inside
the cylinder bore
spray down some WD40 or similar as
the circlip can be a real b**** to get out, but here it comes
this is what you'll find inside
close up of the piston assembly
now for a look down the fluid reservoir,
clean a much as you can and take out screws.
mmmm....nice! looks OK !
there's every chance it could have looked like this .-(
take off reservoir
(note the dark dirt down there)
Time for a bath.
I use a household bathroom cleaner for this first cleaning
then submerge in a bath of fluid that dissolves rust/lime/dirt
and finish off with brake cleaner and giantuargianatronic(?) quantities
of compresed air.
CLEANLINESS is the key to a good brake rebuild
here we have old parts/new parts
check valve goes on spring (only 75-77 models)
you'll have to mount the secondary cup on the piston.
Compare to the old piston
and be really really really carefull when you slide it on.
Use a bit of brake fluid to help it along, and remember
ONLY brakefluid, NO oil/grease or anything goes!!!
squeeze it
and be absolutely sure you get it right
...NOT like this
but like this
check it up agains the old one
now for the rest of it
NOTE the primary cup goes in THIS WAY
now check the reservoir O-ring and the grove that holds it.
The o-ring is normally not part of the rebuild-set but it's available
as parts# 45516-371-003 or if you have a good O-ring supplyer
yol'll ask for a 45 x 2,4 mm
now take a good long look down the cylinder.
Check for dirt, scratches etc.
You really should check to see if the bore diameter
is inside service limit witch is 17.515 mm
(more on that later)
in the bottom of that LEFT recess there is tiny tiny hole,
(can't really see it in the photo)
that you need to check to see if it is blocked
one way of doing that is to block that hole on the right of the above photo
and then light down like this
and by looking into the cylnder you can see if the hole is 'clear'.
Yeah, it's that small blue blurry dot. (I couldn't keep the camera still)
...more later
BEFORE YOU GO ON;
PLEASE READ *THIS*.
Please take into consiteration that you are dealing with brakes here;
they define the thin line between being a happy smiling GL rider
and a not-so-happy ex-GL rider in a wheelchair
or even a very dead GL rider.
If you haven't done this kind of thing before
please have someone qualified, check your work !
Thanks.
OK so lets have a look at the front master cylinder
(please note this is for the 75-77 range. The later models are a bit different)
here's an exploded view
you'll need to have parts ready for this.
I don't care what my brakes on a 'new' bike look like;
I'll rebuild them no matter what,
so I've bought
..2 sets of front caliber sealing kits (aftermarked)
..one front master cylinder rebuild set (genuine Honda)
..one rear master cylinder rebuild set (genuine Honda)
a few other parts ,like some sets of shims. Didn't know
they were available, but found them at CMS in Holland
The rear caliber sealing kit is still in the mail somewhere out there
OK so take the master cylinder off your bike
(remember; brake fluid is an exellent paint-strippe, so protect your paintwork)
and go to work.
Handle comes off
together with this plate
that hold this rubber-thingie.
Our friend Randakk has a nice little piece on the subject
of brake-handle and that rubber-thingie:
Odd Front Brake Lever Problem
then off comes this rubber boot
witch is held in place by a plastic washer and a clip
for the next step you gonna need one of these
now put the assembly in a wise (with those aluminum/rubber protectors you can see on the photo)
down here you'll see the circlip that keeps hold of all the parts inside
the cylinder bore
spray down some WD40 or similar as
the circlip can be a real b**** to get out, but here it comes
this is what you'll find inside
close up of the piston assembly
now for a look down the fluid reservoir,
clean a much as you can and take out screws.
mmmm....nice! looks OK !
there's every chance it could have looked like this .-(
take off reservoir
(note the dark dirt down there)
Time for a bath.
I use a household bathroom cleaner for this first cleaning
then submerge in a bath of fluid that dissolves rust/lime/dirt
and finish off with brake cleaner and giantuargianatronic(?) quantities
of compresed air.
CLEANLINESS is the key to a good brake rebuild
here we have old parts/new parts
check valve goes on spring (only 75-77 models)
you'll have to mount the secondary cup on the piston.
Compare to the old piston
and be really really really carefull when you slide it on.
Use a bit of brake fluid to help it along, and remember
ONLY brakefluid, NO oil/grease or anything goes!!!
squeeze it
and be absolutely sure you get it right
...NOT like this
but like this
check it up agains the old one
now for the rest of it
NOTE the primary cup goes in THIS WAY
now check the reservoir O-ring and the grove that holds it.
The o-ring is normally not part of the rebuild-set but it's available
as parts# 45516-371-003 or if you have a good O-ring supplyer
yol'll ask for a 45 x 2,4 mm
now take a good long look down the cylinder.
Check for dirt, scratches etc.
You really should check to see if the bore diameter
is inside service limit witch is 17.515 mm
(more on that later)
in the bottom of that LEFT recess there is tiny tiny hole,
(can't really see it in the photo)
that you need to check to see if it is blocked
one way of doing that is to block that hole on the right of the above photo
and then light down like this
and by looking into the cylnder you can see if the hole is 'clear'.
Yeah, it's that small blue blurry dot. (I couldn't keep the camera still)
...more later
Last edited by octane on Sun Aug 26, 2007 1:39 pm, edited 4 times in total.
- octane
- SUPER BIKER!!!!
- Posts: 3763
- Joined: Sat Jun 11, 2005 3:24 pm
- Location: Denmark
Time to check if the cylinder diameter is within service limit:
75-78 = 17.515mm / 0.6896"
79 = 15.925 mm / 0.6270"
so walked over to the Oil Cave to get some help, as I don't have the tool for that.
"HP" took out the old probe-diameter-measuring set (or whatever it's called)
stuck it in
and moved it about a bit.
This is the probe itself that measures inside the cylinder
and the measurement is checked with the micrometer
fortunately everything's fine; it read 17.48 and something.
Time to put everything back together again
75-78 = 17.515mm / 0.6896"
79 = 15.925 mm / 0.6270"
so walked over to the Oil Cave to get some help, as I don't have the tool for that.
"HP" took out the old probe-diameter-measuring set (or whatever it's called)
stuck it in
and moved it about a bit.
This is the probe itself that measures inside the cylinder
and the measurement is checked with the micrometer
fortunately everything's fine; it read 17.48 and something.
Time to put everything back together again
- Rat
- Photo Gallery Admin
- Posts: 15488
- Joined: Fri Oct 21, 2005 9:59 pm
- My Album: https://www.ngwclub.com/gallery/v/wingmans/rat/
- RIP: cookie
- Location: Toronto .... Canada
GREAT WORK
Fabulous stuff.
Very valuable and useful.
Thanks Gord
Very valuable and useful.
Thanks Gord
"I'd rather Ride than Shine"
‘14 KLR650 ... not a rat ... yet
‘84 GL1200i ‘R2B6' (Rat to Be 6, the last, adopted by twowings)
My Original 'RAT' was a hybrid '82 CB900/1100F
‘14 KLR650 ... not a rat ... yet
‘84 GL1200i ‘R2B6' (Rat to Be 6, the last, adopted by twowings)
My Original 'RAT' was a hybrid '82 CB900/1100F
- octane
- SUPER BIKER!!!!
- Posts: 3763
- Joined: Sat Jun 11, 2005 3:24 pm
- Location: Denmark
here's the parts in the order they go in: (note the check valve at left end of the spring; only for early models)
in goes spring(and check valve)
note the direction of which the primary cup goes in. 'Dress' it with little brake fluid.
make absolutely sure it's sitting right in the cylinder
and then drive it in with a socket or something similar
then the piston. Dress with brake fluid
drive it in (can be a little tricky; it's a tight fit and it has to 'pass' the grove in the cylinder.) Check that it moves freely up and down, by pressing with a rod
the next part is a little tricky as well: getting the (stop-plate/washer and) circlip in. It helps if you (or a helper) presses down the piston a bit with a rod, so you can get the circlip down to the grove
make absolutely certain the circlip is well seated in the grove, ALL around
in goes rubber boot etc.
and reservoir O-ring (again dress with brake-fluid; makes it easier to put the reservoir back on)
screw down reservoir
... and that's it: one piece of rebuild front brake master cylinder.
in goes spring(and check valve)
note the direction of which the primary cup goes in. 'Dress' it with little brake fluid.
make absolutely sure it's sitting right in the cylinder
and then drive it in with a socket or something similar
then the piston. Dress with brake fluid
drive it in (can be a little tricky; it's a tight fit and it has to 'pass' the grove in the cylinder.) Check that it moves freely up and down, by pressing with a rod
the next part is a little tricky as well: getting the (stop-plate/washer and) circlip in. It helps if you (or a helper) presses down the piston a bit with a rod, so you can get the circlip down to the grove
make absolutely certain the circlip is well seated in the grove, ALL around
in goes rubber boot etc.
and reservoir O-ring (again dress with brake-fluid; makes it easier to put the reservoir back on)
screw down reservoir
... and that's it: one piece of rebuild front brake master cylinder.
Da' Supercharged Bulldog
"A designer knows he has achieved perfection
not when there is nothing left to add
but when there is nothing left to take away"
Antoine de Saint-Exupery
"A designer knows he has achieved perfection
not when there is nothing left to add
but when there is nothing left to take away"
Antoine de Saint-Exupery
- Rat
- Photo Gallery Admin
- Posts: 15488
- Joined: Fri Oct 21, 2005 9:59 pm
- My Album: https://www.ngwclub.com/gallery/v/wingmans/rat/
- RIP: cookie
- Location: Toronto .... Canada
- octane
- SUPER BIKER!!!!
- Posts: 3763
- Joined: Sat Jun 11, 2005 3:24 pm
- Location: Denmark
so now for the calipers.
Here's what we're looking at rebuilding:
removing them from the bike is straight forward so let's start here:
remove caliper from bracket (this you'll do while on the bike, but for this thread I have placed it in a vise)
it ain't pretty! Remove pads, piston boot/dust cover, clip and pad spring
to get the piston out; place a rag as shown, apply air pressure through brake line hole while air screw is closed (not shown on photo) and at some point hopefully, it will go WROOOOF and release
at least on early models you'll have to split the caliper to get the piston out
it'll probably look as yummy as this
remove the seal (don't even think about re-using it!)
after a good cleaning, you go to the kitchen, find that roll of tin-foil, cram it into a ball and...yes, use it to clean up all that horrible gum, rubber residue, etc. that has accumulated inside the bore.
[stepping up on soap-box]
"NO NO NO you do not want to use abrasive paper !!!!!" The bore wall is quite 'soft' and the last thing you want to do is to remove material from the bore wall. You want to CLEAN it! NOT expand the diameter ! (which you in this case (GL 77) check to see if inside the service limit of 38.245mm. No picture. Took it to my friend who did the master cylinder check)
So you fix it up with something which is SOFTER than the bore wall. Tin-foil works perfect for this.
you'll go through quite a few tin-foil balls. But heck! they're are darn cheap.-)
and look ! It works! (If not; it's because your bores are scratched and therefore beyond re-use. DON'T USE THEM! These things are vital to your safety!)
oooooh no, look at that. It looks horrible:
back to the kitchen. More tin-foil. And they come up brilliantly
Now if they look like this
or are scratched, or in any way look dodgy; I don't care if you disagree just throw them away! No sanding the pitting away, you don't want a undersized and probably out of 'roundness', leaking piston. no 'filling' with whatever miracle-liquid-steel in a tube. I will NOT last.
Also applies if they are under service limit. Throw it away!!! For 75-77 the service limit is 38.105 mm. Again I took it to my friend as I don't have a micrometer that big.
Just get a new one. Period. Be smart: order a stainless steel item from Pistol Pete and you'll never have that problem again.
BTW a slide gauge just won't do. I tried it just to make my point; It is not precise enough and it came out differenty for every try:
Very few people have access to a inside-a-bore-micrometer-thingie or even a micrometer, so you'll either find someone who has, or play a bit of Russian roulette with your safety OR one thing you CAN do and I am not sure I'd recommend it;
one of my Clymers suggests that as the service limit of the bore diameter is 38.245mm and the service limit of the piston is 38.105mm the MAX 'slack' is (38.245 minus 38.105 =) 0.140mm: you can try to inset a feeler gauge, to measure the 'slack'
So put CLEAN piston into CLEAN bore (WITH OUT the seal!) and insert feeler gauge
for this one I could hardly squeeze in a 0.05mm so apparently everything's fine, but it does not take into account the fact that the feeler gauge is flat and does not follow the rounded contour of piston/cylinder. Also; you don't wanna go too crazy with that feeler gauge and scratch the bore !
So....?!
The inside of the pistons will most probably be very rusty which really doesn't matter that much,but I let them stay overnight filled with 'rust-eater'
so that the worst of it was 'eaten'
and to protect them from further deterioration I smeared the inside with a high-temp nickel compound. I guess copper/brake grease would do the trick as well
Time to nice'en up things. Painted the calibers. Not any old paint, mind you. As you know; brake fluid is an excellent paint stripper, so I used a two-pack heat and brake-fluid resistant paint especially made for brake parts: Cleaned them and masked off
and smartened up various part using the electric buffer
so now things are ready to be put back where they belong, along with the new hardware (or are the rubber-parts software ? Ha ha) No ! the pink stuff is not a day-cream. It's a high-temp sicilone based grease that came with the rebuild set. MotherShip Honda recommends using this stuff for assembly of brakeparts. If you don't have it, you'd just use brake fluid.
smear with pink stuff and place the new seal
smear with pink stuff and put in piston
now take daughters face and smear with pink stuff
OOOOOOPS.....where did that come from ???
fit the new boot
Check that it's seated in piston groove and the boot clip is seated in caliper groove all the way 'round
put back together the two caliper halves and tighten to torque spec.
150-200 kg-cm / 11-14 ft.lb
Grease the pins with pink stuff.
WHY ? : Remember these calipers are 'floating' (pins move inside bracket holes) meaning they move sideways in relation to the bracket. Braking--->Piston moves out--->press on brake pad at piston-side---> when this brake pad touches rotor, the rest of the piston movement will pull the whole caliper sideways, thereby pushing the other pad into rotor.
on goes pin covers
and note that the pins have a straight cut-off that fits into recess on caliper
nice cleaned pad spring
came out nicely....right?
Here's what we're looking at rebuilding:
removing them from the bike is straight forward so let's start here:
remove caliper from bracket (this you'll do while on the bike, but for this thread I have placed it in a vise)
it ain't pretty! Remove pads, piston boot/dust cover, clip and pad spring
to get the piston out; place a rag as shown, apply air pressure through brake line hole while air screw is closed (not shown on photo) and at some point hopefully, it will go WROOOOF and release
at least on early models you'll have to split the caliper to get the piston out
it'll probably look as yummy as this
remove the seal (don't even think about re-using it!)
after a good cleaning, you go to the kitchen, find that roll of tin-foil, cram it into a ball and...yes, use it to clean up all that horrible gum, rubber residue, etc. that has accumulated inside the bore.
[stepping up on soap-box]
"NO NO NO you do not want to use abrasive paper !!!!!" The bore wall is quite 'soft' and the last thing you want to do is to remove material from the bore wall. You want to CLEAN it! NOT expand the diameter ! (which you in this case (GL 77) check to see if inside the service limit of 38.245mm. No picture. Took it to my friend who did the master cylinder check)
So you fix it up with something which is SOFTER than the bore wall. Tin-foil works perfect for this.
you'll go through quite a few tin-foil balls. But heck! they're are darn cheap.-)
and look ! It works! (If not; it's because your bores are scratched and therefore beyond re-use. DON'T USE THEM! These things are vital to your safety!)
oooooh no, look at that. It looks horrible:
back to the kitchen. More tin-foil. And they come up brilliantly
Now if they look like this
or are scratched, or in any way look dodgy; I don't care if you disagree just throw them away! No sanding the pitting away, you don't want a undersized and probably out of 'roundness', leaking piston. no 'filling' with whatever miracle-liquid-steel in a tube. I will NOT last.
Also applies if they are under service limit. Throw it away!!! For 75-77 the service limit is 38.105 mm. Again I took it to my friend as I don't have a micrometer that big.
Just get a new one. Period. Be smart: order a stainless steel item from Pistol Pete and you'll never have that problem again.
BTW a slide gauge just won't do. I tried it just to make my point; It is not precise enough and it came out differenty for every try:
Very few people have access to a inside-a-bore-micrometer-thingie or even a micrometer, so you'll either find someone who has, or play a bit of Russian roulette with your safety OR one thing you CAN do and I am not sure I'd recommend it;
one of my Clymers suggests that as the service limit of the bore diameter is 38.245mm and the service limit of the piston is 38.105mm the MAX 'slack' is (38.245 minus 38.105 =) 0.140mm: you can try to inset a feeler gauge, to measure the 'slack'
So put CLEAN piston into CLEAN bore (WITH OUT the seal!) and insert feeler gauge
for this one I could hardly squeeze in a 0.05mm so apparently everything's fine, but it does not take into account the fact that the feeler gauge is flat and does not follow the rounded contour of piston/cylinder. Also; you don't wanna go too crazy with that feeler gauge and scratch the bore !
So....?!
The inside of the pistons will most probably be very rusty which really doesn't matter that much,but I let them stay overnight filled with 'rust-eater'
so that the worst of it was 'eaten'
and to protect them from further deterioration I smeared the inside with a high-temp nickel compound. I guess copper/brake grease would do the trick as well
Time to nice'en up things. Painted the calibers. Not any old paint, mind you. As you know; brake fluid is an excellent paint stripper, so I used a two-pack heat and brake-fluid resistant paint especially made for brake parts: Cleaned them and masked off
and smartened up various part using the electric buffer
so now things are ready to be put back where they belong, along with the new hardware (or are the rubber-parts software ? Ha ha) No ! the pink stuff is not a day-cream. It's a high-temp sicilone based grease that came with the rebuild set. MotherShip Honda recommends using this stuff for assembly of brakeparts. If you don't have it, you'd just use brake fluid.
smear with pink stuff and place the new seal
smear with pink stuff and put in piston
now take daughters face and smear with pink stuff
OOOOOOPS.....where did that come from ???
fit the new boot
Check that it's seated in piston groove and the boot clip is seated in caliper groove all the way 'round
put back together the two caliper halves and tighten to torque spec.
150-200 kg-cm / 11-14 ft.lb
Grease the pins with pink stuff.
WHY ? : Remember these calipers are 'floating' (pins move inside bracket holes) meaning they move sideways in relation to the bracket. Braking--->Piston moves out--->press on brake pad at piston-side---> when this brake pad touches rotor, the rest of the piston movement will pull the whole caliper sideways, thereby pushing the other pad into rotor.
on goes pin covers
and note that the pins have a straight cut-off that fits into recess on caliper
nice cleaned pad spring
came out nicely....right?
Da' Supercharged Bulldog
"A designer knows he has achieved perfection
not when there is nothing left to add
but when there is nothing left to take away"
Antoine de Saint-Exupery
"A designer knows he has achieved perfection
not when there is nothing left to add
but when there is nothing left to take away"
Antoine de Saint-Exupery
- QUEEENlE
- True Blue Steel Biker
- Posts: 2869
- Joined: Wed Jun 22, 2005 9:08 pm
- Location: Sandy Lake Pennsylvania
You could have painted those red .........
Nice job ....I am so proud to know you ... excellent teacher ...excellent pics and diagrams to help those less mechanically inclined ... wish i had more tools ...i would get busy ...<grin>
...red ...red looks nice.
Hugs
Q
Nice job ....I am so proud to know you ... excellent teacher ...excellent pics and diagrams to help those less mechanically inclined ... wish i had more tools ...i would get busy ...<grin>
...red ...red looks nice.
Hugs
Q
O, for a horse with WINGS ~Shakespeare
____*____*____*____*____*____*____
Most things make me say, hmmmmm
80 GL1100 [img]http://www.nakedgoldwings.com/albums/queeenie/King.thumb.jpg[/img]
* * * * * * * * *
I didn't say it was your fault, I said I was going to blame you!
____*____*____*____*____*____*____
Most things make me say, hmmmmm
80 GL1100 [img]http://www.nakedgoldwings.com/albums/queeenie/King.thumb.jpg[/img]
* * * * * * * * *
I didn't say it was your fault, I said I was going to blame you!
- the chef
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1911
- Joined: Fri Feb 24, 2006 9:06 pm
- Location: Odenville,Alabama. The land of dixie! (!Hell yeah!!)
brakes
WHEW! I am glad I sent mine to Frenchy to do all this for me ! the chef
On the highway to Hell!
Ride on, Ride on.. !
PREVIOUS OLD LOVES=
19?? Zundapp with 6 hp Briggs and Stratton engine Chrome tank
1971 Kawasaki H1 500 blue /white stripe
1975 Honda 750 Yellow
1980 Honda Gl 1100 Interstate Black
1982 Honda Gl 1100 Standard Black
1983 Honda Gl 1100 Aspencade Black
1981 Honda Interstate Black
1981 Honda Gl 500 Silverwing . Candy muse red
1986 Honda VT 500C red
PRESENT RIDE >1976 Honda Gl 1000 Originally red, now flat black, olive drab, primer gray.
Ride on, Ride on.. !
PREVIOUS OLD LOVES=
19?? Zundapp with 6 hp Briggs and Stratton engine Chrome tank
1971 Kawasaki H1 500 blue /white stripe
1975 Honda 750 Yellow
1980 Honda Gl 1100 Interstate Black
1982 Honda Gl 1100 Standard Black
1983 Honda Gl 1100 Aspencade Black
1981 Honda Interstate Black
1981 Honda Gl 500 Silverwing . Candy muse red
1986 Honda VT 500C red
PRESENT RIDE >1976 Honda Gl 1000 Originally red, now flat black, olive drab, primer gray.
- octane
- SUPER BIKER!!!!
- Posts: 3763
- Joined: Sat Jun 11, 2005 3:24 pm
- Location: Denmark
NOPE !!!QUEEENlE wrote:You could have painted those red ........
...red ...red looks nice.
Hugs
Q
I did that on my daily ride:
Thought it would look like Brembo brakes
ha ha
It somehow looked like like a man with painted toe nails...urgh!
so I just recently got around to change that
(and a few other 'red-things', like the HONDA-sign on the 'tank')
Sorry Q, Thanks for your kind words, but it looks so much better without the red calipers
or any other red stuff.
Da' Supercharged Bulldog
"A designer knows he has achieved perfection
not when there is nothing left to add
but when there is nothing left to take away"
Antoine de Saint-Exupery
"A designer knows he has achieved perfection
not when there is nothing left to add
but when there is nothing left to take away"
Antoine de Saint-Exupery
- QUEEENlE
- True Blue Steel Biker
- Posts: 2869
- Joined: Wed Jun 22, 2005 9:08 pm
- Location: Sandy Lake Pennsylvania
Yes dear ...that looks much better ...i always wondered why you would paint the calipers red and the bike ...orange ..talk about clashing ... i thought that maybe you were colour blind ...so ..since i am mostly polite i didnt say nothing <grin> ...looks much nicer now...that bike. And i am sure that the shade of red would make a world of difference <smiling> ...ok ok .. i ll stop with the red calipers.<wink>
Hugs
Q
Hugs
Q
O, for a horse with WINGS ~Shakespeare
____*____*____*____*____*____*____
Most things make me say, hmmmmm
80 GL1100 [img]http://www.nakedgoldwings.com/albums/queeenie/King.thumb.jpg[/img]
* * * * * * * * *
I didn't say it was your fault, I said I was going to blame you!
____*____*____*____*____*____*____
Most things make me say, hmmmmm
80 GL1100 [img]http://www.nakedgoldwings.com/albums/queeenie/King.thumb.jpg[/img]
* * * * * * * * *
I didn't say it was your fault, I said I was going to blame you!
- QUEEENlE
- True Blue Steel Biker
- Posts: 2869
- Joined: Wed Jun 22, 2005 9:08 pm
- Location: Sandy Lake Pennsylvania
Yes dear ...that looks much better ...i always wondered why you would paint the calipers red and the bike ...orange ..talk about clashing ... i thought that maybe you were colour blind ...so ..since i am mostly polite i didnt say nothing <grin> ...looks much nicer now...that bike. And i am sure that the shade of red would make a world of difference <smiling> ...ok ok .. i ll stop with the red calipers.<wink>
Hugs
Q
P.S. Did you tell me Nope again ? ...you are pushing it.
Hugs
Q
P.S. Did you tell me Nope again ? ...you are pushing it.
O, for a horse with WINGS ~Shakespeare
____*____*____*____*____*____*____
Most things make me say, hmmmmm
80 GL1100 [img]http://www.nakedgoldwings.com/albums/queeenie/King.thumb.jpg[/img]
* * * * * * * * *
I didn't say it was your fault, I said I was going to blame you!
____*____*____*____*____*____*____
Most things make me say, hmmmmm
80 GL1100 [img]http://www.nakedgoldwings.com/albums/queeenie/King.thumb.jpg[/img]
* * * * * * * * *
I didn't say it was your fault, I said I was going to blame you!
- Whiskerfish
- President
- Posts: 36964
- Joined: Thu Feb 16, 2006 9:34 pm
- My Album: http://www.ngwclub.com/gallery/v/wingmans/whiskerfish/
- Location: Norfolk Va
That is a fine looking ride. I am envious! Also one of the most thourough rebuilds I have ever seen. Great job !!
"Agreement is not a requirement for Respect" CDR Michael Smith USN (Ret) 2017
"The book is wrong, this whole Conclusion is Fallacious" River Tam
"Yea I do dance awkwardly, and I am having more fun than you" Taylor Swift
2008 GL1800 IIIA "TH3DOG"
1984 GL1200 Standard
1975/6/7/8/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike
Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!
"The book is wrong, this whole Conclusion is Fallacious" River Tam
"Yea I do dance awkwardly, and I am having more fun than you" Taylor Swift
2008 GL1800 IIIA "TH3DOG"
1984 GL1200 Standard
1975/6/7/8/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike
Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!
- Needle
- Zinc Member
- Posts: 54
- Joined: Sat Dec 31, 2005 10:07 pm
- Location: Mililani, Hawaii USA
Aloha Octane,
We are almost on the same page. I am doing my brakes on my 75 now. I noticed on the rear caliper, there is an o ring in between the halves when you separate them, but it wasn't in my rebuild kit, so I am looking for one to match it. I will be ordering new pistons from Pete, cause mine were really messed up and they didn't come out very easy either. The halves didn’t come apart very easy, had to use an air impact wrench. I will be running a thread tap through it before I put it back together. Thanks for the great work and the tin foil idea is a stroke of genius.
We are almost on the same page. I am doing my brakes on my 75 now. I noticed on the rear caliper, there is an o ring in between the halves when you separate them, but it wasn't in my rebuild kit, so I am looking for one to match it. I will be ordering new pistons from Pete, cause mine were really messed up and they didn't come out very easy either. The halves didn’t come apart very easy, had to use an air impact wrench. I will be running a thread tap through it before I put it back together. Thanks for the great work and the tin foil idea is a stroke of genius.
Aloha,
Needle
75 GL1000
78 XS750SE
83 GL1100 (Donor Bike)
00 XL883
Put something exciting between your legs.....ride a motorcycle!
Needle
75 GL1000
78 XS750SE
83 GL1100 (Donor Bike)
00 XL883
Put something exciting between your legs.....ride a motorcycle!
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