The NGW Project Bike. Brake rebuild

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scpumm
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Brake rebuild tips and tricks

#46

Post by scpumm »

Hello Octane, Thanks for your insights. It will save a fellow NGW members
a lot of grief when taking on this job. Your GL is certainly unique. Haven't seen that style of panniers before.
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#47

Post by LeaStuff »

Very good instructions!
I ran across an issue with the rear brakes seized up, which led to a significant crash on my 25 degree inclined driveway (cracked ribs, fractured wrist, shattered windshield...). The freshly rebuilt carbs just would not give the necessary power to overcome the braking force (inmoveable object/unstoppable force...).
During the tear-down (after medical recovery), I attempted the compressed air trick to eject the pistons...my 180 PSI compressor would not do the trick! I had to re-install on to the brake lines, and pump the brakes until the pistons popped out. Basic physics...brake fluid does not compress, where air does, thereby providing much greater force against the calipers...NOTE: Use appropriate safety measures! When that much force is let loose, you do not want to be in the path! The release was more like a shotgun blast that left my ears ringing...
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dbtroudy
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#48

Post by dbtroudy »

Another way to release a siezed brake caliper piston is use a grease gun. Use a zerk fitting and slowly pump grease into the brake caliper. You won't get the dynamic pop of brake fluid (preferred method) or air. Keep in mind that crease will fill every hole and void so clean up is critical. Grease and brake fluid do not mix. However, grease will move the most stubborn of stuck pistons.

Don
Diamond Bar, CA
DBTroudy
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Sidecar Bob
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#49

Post by Sidecar Bob »

In any case, it's a good idea to put the caliper inside a box and put a piece of wood into the caliper so that when the piston moves it will hit the wood instead of escaping and stay in the box if it does come out.

If you use the right thickness of wood it will also make sure that you don't have one piston come out before the other one starts to move.
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Two-part caliper paint

#50

Post by steve518 »

Which two-part caliper paint did you use? I'm getting ready to rebuild all 3 calipers this winter, and would like to freshen up the cosmetics while I'm at it. Thanks for the excellent tutorial.
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#51

Post by Whiskerfish »

Steve

I doubt you will get an answer. We have not seen Octane around these parts on a regular basis for a while now :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:
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Re: The NGW Project Bike. Brake rebuild

#52

Post by steve518 »

After rebuilding the M/C on my '75 this weekend, I thought it worth mentioning that the most
difficult/scary part of the rebuild was convincing myself that I could actually get the seconday cup to stretch over the piston. It took a LOT of pinching, pulling, and stretching. I was fairly convinced that I'd be ordering another rebuild kit, but I finally got it done.
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Re: The NGW Project Bike. Brake rebuild

#53

Post by dbtroudy »

Steve, The hardest part of the journey is taking that first step. Congratulations on completing your first brake MC rebuild. I've done many of these and I can remember the first time and it was a bit scary. We've all been there. Even those of us who have been around awhile learn new tricks too. Just ask sometime about the "spooge" hole (bleed hole) in the rear MC. I couldn't figure out where it was let alone how small it was because my MC was caked over with dried brake fluid. Keep up the good work and you'll learn alot. Just remember there are no dumb questions when it comes to our old Wings.

Don
Diamond Bar, CA
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Re: The NGW Project Bike. Brake rebuild

#54

Post by RedRocket »

Working on my brakes now. On the rear caliper one piston popped out nicely, and now I don't have any backpressure to pop out the second one.

Any ideas guys?
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Re: The NGW Project Bike. Brake rebuild

#55

Post by dbtroudy »

This one is a bit messy but it works. If you install a zerk fitting on the bleed valve and then insert a piece of rubber or thin plastic between the two brake calipur halves to block the brake fluid hole. Reassemble the calipur and then using a grease gun, you can force the piston out. The down side to this method is that you will need to clean all the grease out before you reassemble the brake calipur. Grease and brake fluid are not compatible.

The better option is to block off the connecting passage with rubber or plastic, reassemble the calipur and try compressed air to pop out the stuck piston. This is the better method and not as messy.

Don
Diamond Bar, CA
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Re: The NGW Project Bike. Brake rebuild

#56

Post by dbtroudy »

RedRocket - Where are you in SoCal?

Don
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Re: The NGW Project Bike. Brake rebuild

#57

Post by RedRocket »

Thanks for the help. I tried plan B + some hammer taps, but it's not moving.
I don't have a grease gun, so I have to get my neighbor to bring me his from his work.

I thought I read about boiling them, but was that only to remove stubborn seals?
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Re: The NGW Project Bike. Brake rebuild

#58

Post by Sidecar Bob »

Buy yourself a grease gun. You will need it for other parts of the bike anyway.
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Re: The NGW Project Bike. Brake rebuild

#59

Post by RedRocket »

[quote="dbtroudy"]RedRocket - Where are you in SoCal?

Don[/quote]


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dbtroudy
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Re: The NGW Project Bike. Brake rebuild

#60

Post by dbtroudy »

Grease guns are cheap at AutoZone or Kragen. Worth the investment. I've been stuck a couple of times getting the old pistons out. Give me a call if you have questions. Sent you my contact info via separate email.

Don
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