The NGW Project Bike. Carburetor rebuild

This Is Strictly For The "How To" Sticky's

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Rat
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HOURS?

#31

Post by Rat »

There must be more hours in a day where you live :shock:

Loverly work.

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#32

Post by bandido »

Octane, I'm on your feet: action1 action1 action1 this works is
A B S O L U T L Y F A N T A S T I C !!!!!
Whit that guide, I'm sure I'll be able to clean mines...( maybe this winter)
A question: Is Ranndak's kits the best option?
Cheers & congratulations
Keep teachin' us.
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#33

Post by Whiskerfish »

bandido wrote:Octane, I'm on your feet: action1 action1 action1 this works is
A B S O L U T L Y F A N T A S T I C !!!!!
Whit that guide, I'm sure I'll be able to clean mines...( maybe this winter)
A question: Is Ranndak's kits the best option?
Cheers & congratulations
Keep teachin' us.
In my Opinion it is. Everything you need for $130 something. Quality is great.
"Agreement is not a requirement for Respect" CDR Michael Smith USN (Ret) 2017
"The book is wrong, this whole Conclusion is Fallacious" River Tam
2008 GL1800 IIIA "TH3DOG"
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and a whole garage full of possibilities!!

Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!
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#34

Post by octane »

Thanks guys!

Yes, Bandido, Randakks is the best!
..and it includes things you won't find anywhere else.

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Re: HOURS?

#35

Post by octane »

RAT wrote:There must be more hours in a day where you live...
LOL
..no; it's just that I work free lance, witch means
days and sometimes weeks of working stupid hours
and then days and sometimes weeks not working
and of having all the time in the world
to do the important stuff.....my bikes.-)
BWT one gets done a lot more,
working on the bike continuously for a longer period
than working the same amount of time spread out,
one day here.. one day there.. half a day there etc.

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#36

Post by octane »

I decided to renew the whole inlet valve/strainer set-up
but if you don't; then check the in-build valve spring
by depressing the tiny 'rod' with a tiny screwdriver

Image



check that the tip is absolutely perfect

Image


mount it on the float
Image

and insert into fuel inlet and....


(The following pics are from my carb rebuild last year)

Insert pin
Red arrow indicates the 'tang' witch you use to adjusts the float height,
by carefully bending
Image



The Clymer manuals have got a lot of this stuff wrong.
You can check it here:
Clymer Gold Wing Manual Errata


Here's a suggestion for how to do the float height adjustment
Image
Using the wedges, set the carb-assembly to the EXACT angle,
where the spring-loaded tiny 'rod' of the float valve
(that I checked above)
is contacted but not depressed by the float holders 'tang'.

Secure the set-up with a thick wire or something




You measure the float height setting
between the edge of the float and the raised 'lip' of the carb body
Image


and adjust til you get exactly 21mm, by bending the small 'tang'
as described above
Image
Remember; this goes for both the floats of each carb. You never know if someone in the past have bend and twisted the float"holder" metal


You can also use one of them fancy
Honda float level gauges
Image
but I don't like using it.
It's fiddly to use and it's not very precise.




But be good to yourself:
REcheck:
Image
Last edited by octane on Thu Aug 31, 2006 7:43 am, edited 1 time in total.
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#37

Post by octane »

Now for the air cutoff valve

Clean it, clean it, clean it!
Some moron had used liquid gasket on this.
Think about what small lumps of that stuff can do
once it enters slow air jets etc.
Image


Check spring action of spring under that small metal plate
Image


Check tiny tiny hole right in the middle of this pic
Image
Blow lotsa air!!!


Mount new diaphragm with
rod pointing this way !!!
Image


spring on top
Image


new O-ring in assembly cover
Image
and screw down cover



New o-rings in assembly
Image



Mount vacuum tube from carb 1 to air cutoff valve
and 4 air tubes from plenum to slow air valves.
(...after checking each for cracks etc. and test them
by plugging one end and sucking from the other end
to see if they hold vacuum)
Image

Actually you don't wanna mount the air cutoff valve
assembly till the whole carb assembly is
re-installed on the engine, as it will be in the way.


That's it. You're done!!!
Just throw the darn thing back in!

All you need now is a good carb balancing.
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#38

Post by Whiskerfish »

Jeez I don't know there Lars, I think maybe Randall is gonna have to start watching out for you :lol: :lol: That is another excellent pictorial!! Well explained and thourough.
"Agreement is not a requirement for Respect" CDR Michael Smith USN (Ret) 2017
"The book is wrong, this whole Conclusion is Fallacious" River Tam
2008 GL1800 IIIA "TH3DOG"
1975/6/7/8/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike
and a whole garage full of possibilities!!

Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!
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#39

Post by Jester »

Where can a person get a hold of the white caps that go on top of the carbs. I am looking at a '76 Wing that has a broken one. I have checked Randakk's Cycle Shakk but I didn't see them offered. Perhaps I missed them. Thanks in advance for the help.
BTW; Great right up. Great site.
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#40

Post by Whiskerfish »

Not something you can buy. have to find another set of carbs and scavenge them or make your own. Many folks have used coins and I personally use white spray can tops cut down to fit. Make sure it is a clean airtight seal abut be very cautious not to plug the little hole inside with any glue/sealant.
"Agreement is not a requirement for Respect" CDR Michael Smith USN (Ret) 2017
"The book is wrong, this whole Conclusion is Fallacious" River Tam
2008 GL1800 IIIA "TH3DOG"
1975/6/7/8/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike
and a whole garage full of possibilities!!

Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!
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#41

Post by Oldewing »

After reading about Lars work here on these carbs, I had to fiddle with something. But I am stuck at work :shock: :shock:


But now my desk stapler is working fine, stripped down, cleaned,adjusted and replaced :-D :-D
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Other times we just hug.......

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#42

Post by Whiskerfish »

Oldewing wrote:After reading about Lars work here on these carbs, I had to fiddle with something. But I am stuck at work :shock: :shock:


But now my desk stapler is working fine, stripped down, cleaned,adjusted and replaced :-D :-D
He He He He !!!!
"Agreement is not a requirement for Respect" CDR Michael Smith USN (Ret) 2017
"The book is wrong, this whole Conclusion is Fallacious" River Tam
2008 GL1800 IIIA "TH3DOG"
1975/6/7/8/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike
and a whole garage full of possibilities!!

Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!
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#43

Post by octane »

Oldewing wrote: But now my desk stapler is working fine, stripped down, cleaned,adjusted and replaced...
Did you fix the 'staple-spring-glitch' problem?
Image

Picture not hosted on NGW WF

most people neglect this important part! Very dangerous!

You really need to check the discussion about it over at the Classic Desk Stapler Forum





.
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#44

Post by Jester »

:lol: :lol: :lol:
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Beautiful job! Truly inspirational!

#45

Post by Dagvald »

Thanks for this wonderful pictorial guide! I've just gotten my Randakk's rebuild kit a few days ago and have been gearing myself up mentally to attack the carbs. Your excellent photo story is exactly what I needed: a step by step guide to the whole process. And there were plenty of funny parts that had me grinning and giggling.

You are a super mechanic, a great teacher and I think this post is a big gift to the online Naked Goldwings community. I'm going to put it on the old laptop in my workshop so I can refer to it as I do my carbs. THANK YOU OCTANE! (Especially for reminding me to grip securely those little brass jets as I squirt them with 120psi compressed air.)
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