Unpimp ze motorrad: 1975 GL1000

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MegaDan
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Re: Unpimp ze motorrad: 1975 GL1000

#46

Post by MegaDan »

5speed wrote:your bike looks great.
what handle bars and mirrors are you using?
The bars are Emgo "Superbike" bars. Nothing too special or fancy. I drilled the bars and ran the control wiring through them for a cleaner install.

The mirrors are some cheaper "CNC" aluminum mirrors I found on Ebay for about 35 bucks. They are actally very nice for the money, but not quite wide enough to be entirely useful for my large frame. I get a lot of good views of my elbows lol. Pretty much these. If you search CNC Aluminum Round Mirror you will find multiple sellers/versions.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-CNC- ... 0Q&vxp=mtr
1975 GL1000 - Delkevic exhaust with stainless studs, Corbin Touring seat, Race Tech Gold Valve cartridge emulators, Progressive 11-1100 springs, Progressive 412HD rear shocks, Shinko 230 tires, Fork Brace, Trucklite 27270c headlight, X-Arc Signals (run, brake, turn), Hydraulic Clutch conversion, EBC Clutch discs, HD springs, and Barnett Steels + Plate B eliminated. BikeMaster DLFP-50N18L Lithium battery, Rick's Motorsports CBR600F4 Mosfet Regulator/Rectifier upgrade.
MegaDan
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Re: Unpimp ze motorrad: 1975 GL1000

#47

Post by MegaDan »

Rednaxs60 wrote:Excellent read and you've done a great job.

Tried replacing the Plate B on my 1200, but was not happy with the play in the clutch stack after it was assembled. Did manage to find a NOS and installed the new damper plate. Good to hear that with some play clutch still works good.

Have race Tech springs and the gold valves installed in the front forks and Progressive non-air shocks in the rear. Pleased with the performance, but need to get a better understanding of how the Race Tech system works. Have the Race Tech book as well.

Firm believer that with a bike of 30 plus years, not only are the safety items such as brakes needing overhauling, the suspension needs to be upgraded with new or an aftermarket setup as this relates to safety as well.

Good to hear that everything you have done has met your expectations. Great looking bike.

Cheers
The clutch actually works very well without the B-plate. I have two good ones. My original and the one that came with the parts I ordered when I broke my pressure plate lol. I just followed the Wingovations method and put in 2 more steel plates.

As far as the gold valves, they take a bit of fiddling to get setup perfectly. Since they only regulate compression dampening and have such a large orifice surface area, they aren't really affected by the weight of the fork oil. I ended up with the blue springs with 4 turns of preload, and that has ended up being perfect for me. The forks compress easily on bumps, but in perfect control. My issue is that the progressive springs are just a tiny bit too stiff. Not bad, but definitely firm. If I were trying to make my Goldwing a track bike, they would be perfect I will likely being switching to Racetech's 1kg springs soon, as they are shorter and allow preload. The progressives are longer and not meant to have preload on them, but with the gold valves and adapters ended up with a decent amount.
BustedKnuckles wrote:Thank you for the comprehensive suspension write-up. I'm focused on my engines state of tune, and ordered some Hagon rear shocks, but have no idea what to do with the front. You provided me with something to consider, and got the conversation started with my bike!
I had debated on what to do with my fronts as well. A fork swap was tempting, but to do it right (in my eyes) would have required a lot of other changes. I may still do a fork swap down the road, but the way I want to do so puts the total cost past $2000. Forks, rebuilding, springing, and valving said forks, custom triples for the right offset, gauges, and a spoke wheel with said forks, gets expensive quickly.

By contrast, a fork brace, springs, and gold valve really transform the bike. While the USD fork conversion would technically be better, for the type of bike this is they do a more than adequate job.

I am sure the Goldwing front hub could be machined to use the right bearings to work with a larger bearing to work with the GSXR or other donor bike front axle, and thusly accept the speedo drive of the Goldwing. Then some custom axle spacers could be used. That would cut a lot of cost from the conversion - roughly $800.

I actually have a spare front wheel hub now, so that gives me the ability to look into it. I will likely keep my eyes out for a set of cheap GSXR750 forks and pick them up, but that is way way down on my priority list. I am more than happy with the stock forks after doing the upgrades.
1975 GL1000 - Delkevic exhaust with stainless studs, Corbin Touring seat, Race Tech Gold Valve cartridge emulators, Progressive 11-1100 springs, Progressive 412HD rear shocks, Shinko 230 tires, Fork Brace, Trucklite 27270c headlight, X-Arc Signals (run, brake, turn), Hydraulic Clutch conversion, EBC Clutch discs, HD springs, and Barnett Steels + Plate B eliminated. BikeMaster DLFP-50N18L Lithium battery, Rick's Motorsports CBR600F4 Mosfet Regulator/Rectifier upgrade.
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5speed
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Re: Unpimp ze motorrad: 1975 GL1000

#48

Post by 5speed »

MegaDan wrote:
5speed wrote:your bike looks great.
what handle bars and mirrors are you using?
The bars are Emgo "Superbike" bars. Nothing too special or fancy. I drilled the bars and ran the control wiring through them for a cleaner install.

The mirrors are some cheaper "CNC" aluminum mirrors I found on Ebay for about 35 bucks. They are actally very nice for the money, but not quite wide enough to be entirely useful for my large frame. I get a lot of good views of my elbows lol. Pretty much these. If you search CNC Aluminum Round Mirror you will find multiple sellers/versions.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-CNC- ... 0Q&vxp=mtr
Thanks. I've been looking at bars for my cafe build.
I don't want the crotch rocket look..I'm to old to be putting my shoulders through that.
Those bars don't look bad at all.
1982 1100 standard. (sold)
1986 Yamaha FJ1200
2000 Yamaha Roadstar
1976 GoldWing. running but not on the road
1978 Goldwing. future cafe project.
2019 Can-Am ryker (boss's new ride)

2002 Shadow American Classic(sold)
1983 Shadow 500. (sold)
MegaDan
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Re: Unpimp ze motorrad: 1975 GL1000

#49

Post by MegaDan »

5speed wrote:
MegaDan wrote:
5speed wrote:your bike looks great.
what handle bars and mirrors are you using?
The bars are Emgo "Superbike" bars. Nothing too special or fancy. I drilled the bars and ran the control wiring through them for a cleaner install.

The mirrors are some cheaper "CNC" aluminum mirrors I found on Ebay for about 35 bucks. They are actally very nice for the money, but not quite wide enough to be entirely useful for my large frame. I get a lot of good views of my elbows lol. Pretty much these. If you search CNC Aluminum Round Mirror you will find multiple sellers/versions.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-CNC- ... 0Q&vxp=mtr
Thanks. I've been looking at bars for my cafe build.
I don't want the crotch rocket look..I'm to old to be putting my shoulders through that.
Those bars don't look bad at all.
They would be a nice inbetween for what you want. They do cause a little more pressure on the wrist, but still very much upright-ish riding position. My only wish is that the foot controls/pegs could be moved down or back a little bit, but that is more to do with my height than anything else. Being 6'4 makes things difficult that way lol.
1975 GL1000 - Delkevic exhaust with stainless studs, Corbin Touring seat, Race Tech Gold Valve cartridge emulators, Progressive 11-1100 springs, Progressive 412HD rear shocks, Shinko 230 tires, Fork Brace, Trucklite 27270c headlight, X-Arc Signals (run, brake, turn), Hydraulic Clutch conversion, EBC Clutch discs, HD springs, and Barnett Steels + Plate B eliminated. BikeMaster DLFP-50N18L Lithium battery, Rick's Motorsports CBR600F4 Mosfet Regulator/Rectifier upgrade.
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ericheath
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Re: Unpimp ze motorrad: 1975 GL1000

#50

Post by ericheath »

I’m only 5’10 but I’d like to get my pegs moved back a bit also. I like the look of others riding more upright, but on longer trips on the big slab I find myself leaning forward helps with comfort. I always thought it would be better sitting a little further back on the seat, but I’m finding it better toward the front now, enough to where I want to slide the tank up a little and move the seat ahead.
Whatever I suggest here should be given ample time for a moderator to delicately correct. I apologize in advance.
77 WING, 1200 engine with 77 heads, cams, gl1100 foot pegs, Magna V65 front end, 764A carbs, [-gone Suzuki M109 monoshock--, replaced with gl1100 shocks] gl 1200 swing arm, gl1500 final drive, wheel and rear brakes Valkyrie seat, Meanstreak tank, Sportster pipes, Power Arc ignition off crank.
77 Wing. black
83 Wing, in pieces
"Continuing education is important even if the subject matter is fairly useless (as in this case)."---Greg Foresi
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5speed
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Re: Unpimp ze motorrad: 1975 GL1000

#51

Post by 5speed »

MegaDan wrote:
They would be a nice inbetween for what you want. They do cause a little more pressure on the wrist, but still very much upright-ish riding position. My only wish is that the foot controls/pegs could be moved down or back a little bit, but that is more to do with my height than anything else. Being 6'4 makes things difficult that way lol.
I'm 6'4" as well.
This will be more of an around town, short ride bike so a little weight, pressure on my wrists I can tolerate.
1982 1100 standard. (sold)
1986 Yamaha FJ1200
2000 Yamaha Roadstar
1976 GoldWing. running but not on the road
1978 Goldwing. future cafe project.
2019 Can-Am ryker (boss's new ride)

2002 Shadow American Classic(sold)
1983 Shadow 500. (sold)
MegaDan
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Re: Unpimp ze motorrad: 1975 GL1000

#52

Post by MegaDan »

ericheath wrote:I’m only 5’10 but I’d like to get my pegs moved back a bit also. I like the look of others riding more upright, but on longer trips on the big slab I find myself leaning forward helps with comfort. I always thought it would be better sitting a little further back on the seat, but I’m finding it better toward the front now, enough to where I want to slide the tank up a little and move the seat ahead.
Same exact observations as I have made. Sitting more forward takes some bending out of the hips. Sitting back is definitely better for tucking in though, even if my face is in the gauges lol
1975 GL1000 - Delkevic exhaust with stainless studs, Corbin Touring seat, Race Tech Gold Valve cartridge emulators, Progressive 11-1100 springs, Progressive 412HD rear shocks, Shinko 230 tires, Fork Brace, Trucklite 27270c headlight, X-Arc Signals (run, brake, turn), Hydraulic Clutch conversion, EBC Clutch discs, HD springs, and Barnett Steels + Plate B eliminated. BikeMaster DLFP-50N18L Lithium battery, Rick's Motorsports CBR600F4 Mosfet Regulator/Rectifier upgrade.
MegaDan
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Re: Unpimp ze motorrad: 1975 GL1000

#53

Post by MegaDan »

Well, a flood of parts I wasn't expecting for a week came in. Most of it isn't worth showing (driveshafts, front fender, etc), but I did get my Microsquirt in today. I still need to get the coolant and intake temp sensors and figure out the IAC, but most of those are cheap. The fuel pump is the only other "big" purchase for the EFI setup.

Still waiting on my M-unit Basic - which is the Blue version but without the bluetooth. I decided to keep it simple and within a budget, so for now there is no M-button, M-lock, or any other cool extras. I did order the wiring kit with it though. I figured it would be the easiest to install it along side the Microsquirt so I can consolidate all of the wiring at once, and I can use the switched power on the M-unit to supply power to the ECU and trigger the fuel pump.

Also still waiting on the 1200 EFI intake setup.

My plan is to get the intake mods out of the way before I pull the motor. That way I can get my wiring and fitment sorted out in the bike, then tear it down to do the motor work and figure out the rest of the wiring as well as pull the fuel tank to figure out the fittings.

What amazed me was just how small the Microsquirt is. That is a 30mm OKO Keihin half round flat slide carb for my little Enduro sitting next to it.
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microsquirt.jpg
microsquirt.jpg (115.35 KiB) Viewed 537 times
1975 GL1000 - Delkevic exhaust with stainless studs, Corbin Touring seat, Race Tech Gold Valve cartridge emulators, Progressive 11-1100 springs, Progressive 412HD rear shocks, Shinko 230 tires, Fork Brace, Trucklite 27270c headlight, X-Arc Signals (run, brake, turn), Hydraulic Clutch conversion, EBC Clutch discs, HD springs, and Barnett Steels + Plate B eliminated. BikeMaster DLFP-50N18L Lithium battery, Rick's Motorsports CBR600F4 Mosfet Regulator/Rectifier upgrade.
MegaDan
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Re: Unpimp ze motorrad: 1975 GL1000

#54

Post by MegaDan »

More goodies. Yay!

Came off a bike with less than 10k miles, and I believe it. everything is so clean and shiny.
Attachments
1200efiintake.jpg
1200efiintake.jpg (66.71 KiB) Viewed 511 times
1200efiintake1.jpg
1200efiintake1.jpg (55.75 KiB) Viewed 511 times
1200efiintake2.jpg
1200efiintake2.jpg (68.14 KiB) Viewed 511 times
1975 GL1000 - Delkevic exhaust with stainless studs, Corbin Touring seat, Race Tech Gold Valve cartridge emulators, Progressive 11-1100 springs, Progressive 412HD rear shocks, Shinko 230 tires, Fork Brace, Trucklite 27270c headlight, X-Arc Signals (run, brake, turn), Hydraulic Clutch conversion, EBC Clutch discs, HD springs, and Barnett Steels + Plate B eliminated. BikeMaster DLFP-50N18L Lithium battery, Rick's Motorsports CBR600F4 Mosfet Regulator/Rectifier upgrade.
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Rednaxs60
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Re: Unpimp ze motorrad: 1975 GL1000

#55

Post by Rednaxs60 »

If you haven't got the fuel pump yet, a fuel pp off an early model Civic, Prelude, Acura fuel injected models at a wreckers works very well. Other manufacturers like VW and others do too. OEM fuel pp for a 1200 FI bike (came off mine):
Original OEM  Fuel Pump.jpg
Original OEM Fuel Pump.jpg (68.57 KiB) Viewed 500 times
Here is a list of potential fuel pump alternatives:
Prelude OEM – 06167-PE7-751 
Walbro GSL414
Walbro GCL616
Walbro 5CA201
1986 Honda Prelude 2.0 Fuel Pump
Airtex E8312
Spectra SP1186
Delphi P/N FD0030
Denso 951-3003

I have used the Spectra and Airtex, work well. Had an issue with my bike that I thought was fuel related so I tried a couple of different pumps. It turned out to be a coil issue.

Also need a fuel filter from fuel pp to injectors. Here is a list of those that have been used on the '85 and '86 FI bikes: Hastings GF159
Beck Arnley 043-0897
Fram G3969
NAPA 3556
WIX 33556

Have found a replacement for the PB sensors (qty 2) on my '85 LTD - from the CX500-CX650 forum. The fellows over on that site have done a lot of research/testing and have found that the Suzuki sensor - Brand: Denso. Type number: 100798-5630. Suzuki ordering number: 15620-35F00. Suzuki description: Sensor Boost, IAP (Inlet Air Pressure) sensor, is an almost direct replacement for the Honda OEM PB sensors on their 500/650 Turbos.

One of the issues that was found is that the internal construction/connections was less than stellar (they took one apart) and since the connections were not soldered, the internal connections would come apart such that vibration would cause the PB sensor to fail. This is a good hit/miss scenario when troubleshooting.

Did some investigation into the difference between the Suzuki sensor and the OEM PB sensor(s) on my '85 LTD. I took some measurements. It was mentioned that static testing may not be indicative of dynamic testing; however, it is a starting point.

The power source for this was 3 - AA batteries in series giving me 4.8 VDC. I hooked up a test circuit with multimeter. Here are my readings, read in 3 columns - inches of Hg/Suzuki sensor - VDC/Honda OEM PB sensor - VDC:

0 inch of Hg/3.45/3.63
5 inch of Hg/3.1/3.14
10 inch of Hg/2.65/2.59
15 inch of Hg/2.18/2.0
20 inch of Hg/1.73/1.43
25 inch of Hg/1.26/0.88

Using the Suzuki sensors in place of the Honda PB sensors. Still working good and fuel economy is the same.

I keep a spreadsheet of parts and alternatives that I find on the various forums. Find it invaluable.

Hope this is of some help.

Cheers
"When writing the Story of your life, don't let anyone else hold the pen."

Ernest

1985 GL1200 Limited Edition
2014 Can-Am Spyder RT LE
2021 Royal Enfield Himalayan
1995 GL1500 SE CDN Edition (sold)
2012 Suzuki DL1000 VStrom (sold)
Ontario 1985 GL1200 Limited Edition (sold)
2008 GL1800 (sold)
MegaDan
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Re: Unpimp ze motorrad: 1975 GL1000

#56

Post by MegaDan »

Rednaxs60 wrote:If you haven't got the fuel pump yet, a fuel pp off an early model Civic, Prelude, Acura fuel injected models at a wreckers works very well. Other manufacturers like VW and others do too.


Also need a fuel filter from fuel pp to injectors. Here is a list of those that have been used on the '85 and '86 FI bikes: Hastings GF159
Beck Arnley 043-0897
Fram G3969
NAPA 3556
WIX 33556

Have found a replacement for the PB sensors (qty 2) on my '85 LTD - from the CX500-CX650 forum. The fellows over on that site have done a lot of research/testing and have found that the Suzuki sensor - Brand: Denso. Type number: 100798-5630. Suzuki ordering number: 15620-35F00. Suzuki description: Sensor Boost, IAP (Inlet Air Pressure) sensor, is an almost direct replacement for the Honda OEM PB sensors on their 500/650 Turbos.


Hope this is of some help.

Cheers
I appreciate the suggestions. I am avoiding using an automotive pump if I can. I currently have a fuel pump on order specifically designed for smaller engines that flows 45l/hr @43.5psi with a 3 amp draw, which is almost perfect for what I need. Just a basic external pump, nothing fancy. I am likely going to mount it on the lower rear crossmember just behind the motor.

I was looking for ideas for a good post pump filter to the injectors, so I will definitely check out those part numbers. Pre pump isn't as big of a problem to figure out.

As far as the PB sensor, I am assuming you are talking about the MAP sensor? I never planned on using any of the factory Honda sensors with exception to the TPS. MAP duty will be handled by a GM Map sensor, of which I have a small collection thanks to owning Renix era Jeeps. Plus, they are the easiest one to setup and make work with the Megasquirt/Microsquirt.

It definitely helps though.
1975 GL1000 - Delkevic exhaust with stainless studs, Corbin Touring seat, Race Tech Gold Valve cartridge emulators, Progressive 11-1100 springs, Progressive 412HD rear shocks, Shinko 230 tires, Fork Brace, Trucklite 27270c headlight, X-Arc Signals (run, brake, turn), Hydraulic Clutch conversion, EBC Clutch discs, HD springs, and Barnett Steels + Plate B eliminated. BikeMaster DLFP-50N18L Lithium battery, Rick's Motorsports CBR600F4 Mosfet Regulator/Rectifier upgrade.
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Rednaxs60
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Re: Unpimp ze motorrad: 1975 GL1000

#57

Post by Rednaxs60 »

MegaDan wrote: I appreciate the suggestions. I am avoiding using an automotive pump if I can. I currently have a fuel pump on order specifically designed for smaller engines that flows 45l/hr @43.5psi with a 3 amp draw, which is almost perfect for what I need. Just a basic external pump, nothing fancy. I am likely going to mount it on the lower rear crossmember just behind the motor.

I was looking for ideas for a good post pump filter to the injectors, so I will definitely check out those part numbers. Pre pump isn't as big of a problem to figure out.

As far as the PB sensor, I am assuming you are talking about the MAP sensor? I never planned on using any of the factory Honda sensors with exception to the TPS. MAP duty will be handled by a GM Map sensor, of which I have a small collection thanks to owning Renix era Jeeps. Plus, they are the easiest one to setup and make work with the Megasquirt/Microsquirt.

It definitely helps though.
The fuel pressure specs for the FI manifold you have - nice and clean by the way, like it - key on bike not started - fuel pressure 34 to 38 PSI. With engine started 28 to 34 PSI.

On the '85 and '86 FI models, there is no pre-fuel pump filter with the exception of the small cone mesh filter that fits into the inlet of the fuel pump.

I was referring to the MAP sensor. The attached pic shows where the PB sensor is hooked into the manifold.

I have annotated this pic showing the throttle plate clean out screw. You have an '86 1200 FI manifold. The '85 FI manifold does not have this cleaning screw, the throttle plates are cleaned by spraying cleaner in through the air plenum. On the '86 you remove the screw and spray directly onto the throttle plate, much better and easier to do.
1200efiintake1.jpg
1200efiintake1.jpg (113.74 KiB) Viewed 480 times
Cheers
"When writing the Story of your life, don't let anyone else hold the pen."

Ernest

1985 GL1200 Limited Edition
2014 Can-Am Spyder RT LE
2021 Royal Enfield Himalayan
1995 GL1500 SE CDN Edition (sold)
2012 Suzuki DL1000 VStrom (sold)
Ontario 1985 GL1200 Limited Edition (sold)
2008 GL1800 (sold)
MegaDan
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Re: Unpimp ze motorrad: 1975 GL1000

#58

Post by MegaDan »

One more main puzzle piece on hand. I have all of the main parts to get started. Now I just need the time and make space to tear into it and get started.

I am considering doing seperate threads for each as a sort of how-to if there is any interest. I am likely going to do the M-unit first and then work on the microsquirt wiring setup second. This should keep me from overwhelming myself with too many circuits at once and making mistakes lol.
Attachments
20171127_175954.jpg
20171127_175954.jpg (112.36 KiB) Viewed 461 times
1975 GL1000 - Delkevic exhaust with stainless studs, Corbin Touring seat, Race Tech Gold Valve cartridge emulators, Progressive 11-1100 springs, Progressive 412HD rear shocks, Shinko 230 tires, Fork Brace, Trucklite 27270c headlight, X-Arc Signals (run, brake, turn), Hydraulic Clutch conversion, EBC Clutch discs, HD springs, and Barnett Steels + Plate B eliminated. BikeMaster DLFP-50N18L Lithium battery, Rick's Motorsports CBR600F4 Mosfet Regulator/Rectifier upgrade.
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Sugs
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Re: Unpimp ze motorrad: 1975 GL1000

#59

Post by Sugs »

Well, one vote here for interest in both threads.
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'79 Honda GL1000 Goldwing
MegaDan
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Re: Unpimp ze motorrad: 1975 GL1000

#60

Post by MegaDan »

I never did update this thread, but here is a long story short.

This bike suffered either a chain or oil pump failure last year around september. Luckily, I caught it immediately when the oil light came on and shut the bike off.

Due to a few circumstances, I am putting the bike and all of my parts up for sale. I just don't have the time to fix her, nor the space to store her after getting a new bike.

If there is any interest, the sale thread is found here. viewtopic.php?f=6&t=64866&p=719979#p719979

Rather fittingly, I ended up replacing her with another big orange 4cyl Honda. I got one heck of a deal on a 2010 VFR1200F with only 9000 miles on it and a bunch of extra goodies (Corbin seat, tall windshield, Honda OEM Panniers), and a custom paint job in House of Kolor Sunset Orange pearl with a metallic base - reads shiny.
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vfrhome.jpg
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1975 GL1000 - Delkevic exhaust with stainless studs, Corbin Touring seat, Race Tech Gold Valve cartridge emulators, Progressive 11-1100 springs, Progressive 412HD rear shocks, Shinko 230 tires, Fork Brace, Trucklite 27270c headlight, X-Arc Signals (run, brake, turn), Hydraulic Clutch conversion, EBC Clutch discs, HD springs, and Barnett Steels + Plate B eliminated. BikeMaster DLFP-50N18L Lithium battery, Rick's Motorsports CBR600F4 Mosfet Regulator/Rectifier upgrade.
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