1977 gl1000

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Apinkston
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#121

Post by Apinkston »

Sorry that’s my fault. I did not realize that the fan isn’t always on. Still figuring out how most of these parts work
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#122

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Today I tried getting the bike to start and it left me with some questions. Over the past few days my starter had been having more and more trouble turning the engine. Today it would barely turn it, then the starter spun out and wouldn’t turn on. I got the starter halfway out, put it back in, and reconnected everything. Tried it and the starter spun but there was a big spark at the starter and now my magnetic switch buzzes loudly every time I press the start button. Did I short out my magnetic switch?
Apinkston
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#123

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I thought maybe the mid priced starter I bought on Amazon just wasn’t good enough, so I replaced it with the one available through Randakks and I replaced the mag switch too. Got it all hooked up and while it spun great at first, I had to hold the start button for a while to get fuel to the cylinders. The longer I held it, the slower my starter got until it started doing the same thing the other one did. Occasionally I would hear a small whine come out near the mag switch. Battery is always on a tender and was reading 12.5 volts before I started. Have you guys had this problem at all?
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gltriker
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#124

Post by gltriker »

Apinkston wrote: Thu Jan 20, 2022 10:15 pm I thought maybe the mid priced starter I bought on Amazon just wasn’t good enough, so I replaced it with the one available through Randakks and I replaced the mag switch too. Got it all hooked up and while it spun great at first, I had to hold the start button for a while to get fuel to the cylinders. The longer I held it, the slower my starter got until it started doing the same thing the other one did. Occasionally I would hear a small whine come out near the mag switch. Battery is always on a tender and was reading 12.5 volts before I started. Have you guys had this problem at all?
the longer you held the starter button was How long? :shock:
Cliff (74yrs ;) )

Keep your eyes and ears open and you'll learn something new, everyday. tumb2

New users please visit our "Shop Talk" for common tips and help: <---jdvorchak
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RE: a thorough fuel tank cleaning
"And your carbs will thank you. They no longer live down stream from a sewage plant." -gregforesi tumb2
"Can't see the paint when your looking thru the handlebars..........." -Oldewing ;)
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Cliff

'75 GL1000 home built trike; http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=39996
October,2017 BOTM :shock: https://nakedgoldwingsclub.com/forum/page/Welcome

previous rides:
1953 H-D Servi-car, naked, 1969-1978 (serial#53G1559 committed to memory!)
1980 CB900 Custom (triked) 1997-2003 .... R.I.P.
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gltriker
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#125

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Apinkston wrote: Thu Jan 20, 2022 10:15 pm I thought maybe the mid priced starter I bought on Amazon just wasn’t good enough, so I replaced it with the one available through Randakks and I replaced the mag switch too. Got it all hooked up and while it spun great at first, I had to hold the start button for a while to get fuel to the cylinders. The longer I held it, the slower my starter got until it started doing the same thing the other one did. Occasionally I would hear a small whine come out near the mag switch. Battery is always on a tender and was reading 12.5 volts before I started. Have you guys had this problem at all?
I haven't.
I learned 50 plus years ago cranking any engine with a battery powered starter motor is to be performed, judiciously.
The battery powered starter motor produces considerable heat when cranking the engine over.
Drains the battery, can weld the internals of the magnetic switch shut if continuously abused.
Will prematurely "burn" the starter motor out. tumb2
I don't know what Honda's across the board recommendation is for starting their motorcycle engines, though.
Probably 10 seconds 'on', at least 2 or 3 minutes 'off' to dissipate the heat from cranking the engine , repeat.

A fully charged 12volt battery will test at 12.7vdc. A Best Practice, especially now, is to get your GL1000 battery load tested.
Don't allow the measured battery voltage to drop below 11 vdc while cranking the engine.
Last edited by gltriker on Fri Jan 21, 2022 4:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Cliff (74yrs ;) )

Keep your eyes and ears open and you'll learn something new, everyday. tumb2

New users please visit our "Shop Talk" for common tips and help: <---jdvorchak
http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/page/ST
^^^^^^^click up here^^^^^ :oldies

RE: a thorough fuel tank cleaning
"And your carbs will thank you. They no longer live down stream from a sewage plant." -gregforesi tumb2
"Can't see the paint when your looking thru the handlebars..........." -Oldewing ;)
"I'd rather Ride than Shine" -RAT tumb2 Me Too!!

Cliff

'75 GL1000 home built trike; http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=39996
October,2017 BOTM :shock: https://nakedgoldwingsclub.com/forum/page/Welcome

previous rides:
1953 H-D Servi-car, naked, 1969-1978 (serial#53G1559 committed to memory!)
1980 CB900 Custom (triked) 1997-2003 .... R.I.P.
Apinkston
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#126

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The longest I held it was for roughly a minute and that was with the Amazon starter when it first failed. That info does make sense and helps. I was worried I might have had an issue with something internal locking up, or perhaps a bad starter clutch.
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#127

Post by Rat »

A minute is along time to spin the starter motor ... 5-10 seconds is lots ...
Then let it cool
Heat is the enemy here ...
Gord
"I'd rather Ride than Shine"
‘14 KLR650 ... not a rat ... yet
‘84 GL1200i ‘R2B6' (Rat to Be 6, the last, adopted by twowings)
My Original 'RAT' was a hybrid '82 CB900/1100F
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#128

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I’ve noticed that. I’m more used to car starters that can spin longer than a few seconds. Trying once again to start the bike, I got a few pops, but nothing more. I had set my timing as early as I could so I might set it back a little bit
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#129

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Didn’t even need to adjust the timing. I guess it just needed to be spun a bit before it sprung back to life. Got it to run with choke without headers on and decided to put my old rusty headers on just to see how it would sound. To me it sounds great. Video is hard to tell because I had to put my phone so far away but it sounded like there was a rattling chain sound coming from the rear of the engine near the starter. Other than that it sounded amazing. Video is too long for here so this is the link https://youtu.be/nBYn6y4w9W4
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#130

Post by Rat »

The rattle is probably primary chain, should settle down when you sync the carbs ...
When you start it after a lay-off, it takes a while to refill the carbs ... an electric fuel pump fixes that, or just prime the carbs after a long layoff.

Gord
"I'd rather Ride than Shine"
‘14 KLR650 ... not a rat ... yet
‘84 GL1200i ‘R2B6' (Rat to Be 6, the last, adopted by twowings)
My Original 'RAT' was a hybrid '82 CB900/1100F
Apinkston
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#131

Post by Apinkston »

I might look into getting an electric fuel pump. However I gotta get this thing into riding shape so I’m looking at brakes rn. I’m not interested in keeping the stock system and want to replace with dual piston calipers. I read one thread on goldwingdocs that brakes from the CBF series of Hondas bolt right on but are there aftermarket systems that work well too?
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Old Fogey
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#132

Post by Old Fogey »

There are no direct brake swaps for the 75-77 models.
Dual piston calipers from GL1100 and other early 80s models can be fittted to the 78-79 models as a direct swap. Swapping parts from these years to the early bikes can be done but it is not straightforward. Keeping the spoked wheel is problematic due to incompatible parts.
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Apinkston
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#133

Post by Apinkston »

Well I’ll keep looking into it to see if it can be done without too much effort. I don’t have spoked wheels so I’m not worried about the incompatible parts that stem from that. I do have a question about the clutch. No matter how far out I set the clutch cable, I can’t get the rear wheel to move when I’m gear and the lever is pulled. I put oil on the discs when I packed it, but I was told I can try to get the revs up and dump it into first to get the clutch unstuck. Should I try this or should I take the clutch apart and soak the discs in oil to ensure they’re filled
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#134

Post by Old Fogey »

Whoever told you to do that doesn't know much about constant-mesh gearboxes!
There no real need to oil the plates when renewing them, although it is best practice. Oil is fed to them quickly as soon as the engine is running. But if you have just rebuilt it and got a problem, perhaps best to take it apart again and see where it's gone wrong.
"Impossible Is Just a Level of Difficulty!..."
If I'd wanted you to understand, I would have explained it better! (Johann Cruyff)
I’d give my right arm to be ambidextrous! :-D
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gltriker
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#135

Post by gltriker »

After depressing and releasing the rear brake pedal, is the rear brake caliper and pads continuously dragging or clamped tight onto the rear brake rotor?
Cliff (74yrs ;) )

Keep your eyes and ears open and you'll learn something new, everyday. tumb2

New users please visit our "Shop Talk" for common tips and help: <---jdvorchak
http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/page/ST
^^^^^^^click up here^^^^^ :oldies

RE: a thorough fuel tank cleaning
"And your carbs will thank you. They no longer live down stream from a sewage plant." -gregforesi tumb2
"Can't see the paint when your looking thru the handlebars..........." -Oldewing ;)
"I'd rather Ride than Shine" -RAT tumb2 Me Too!!

Cliff

'75 GL1000 home built trike; http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=39996
October,2017 BOTM :shock: https://nakedgoldwingsclub.com/forum/page/Welcome

previous rides:
1953 H-D Servi-car, naked, 1969-1978 (serial#53G1559 committed to memory!)
1980 CB900 Custom (triked) 1997-2003 .... R.I.P.
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