Pauls GL 1000 Project

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paultjack
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#16

Post by paultjack »

OK, next question...

I've drained the oil and coolant. I'm ready to pull this beast and plop it on my bench. When I crack it open will I have a gallon of oil spewing everywhere? Is this something I need to do outside in a controlled environment to collect residual oil? Should I remove the rear cover before taking it inside? I'm sure there's a good bit left in the engine and I don't need that pouring over my work bench.
Do you know what it's like to fall in the mud and get kicked, in the head, by an iron boot? Of course you don't--no one does--that never happens. - Capt. Rex Kramer

'78 Honda GL1000 GoldWing
'86 Honda CMX450C Rebel
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paultjack
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#17

Post by paultjack »

Well, I thought I would have gotten atleast one reply. So, you all going to keep me in the dark as to what's going to spew out of this when I crack it open?

I received my new gaskets from Randakk's Cycle Shakk yesterday. I just need the fuel lines now and the carbs will be 100% complete! Fuel filter and petcock gaskets came in too! Life is good!
Do you know what it's like to fall in the mud and get kicked, in the head, by an iron boot? Of course you don't--no one does--that never happens. - Capt. Rex Kramer

'78 Honda GL1000 GoldWing
'86 Honda CMX450C Rebel
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#18

Post by Sagebrush »

If you want to keep your workbench pristine, or at least no oil on it, then split the cases and remove the clutch and rear covers where the residual oil can drain out harmlessly. There is probably between a 1/4 to 1/2 of a quart of oil lurking in there waiting for you to release it.
Dean Spalding
Raleigh, NC

"Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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#19

Post by starket »

Try raising the back end and leave the drain plug out. I did this when I started working on my project. It got most of the oil out so when I removed the front cover, there was little if any left. I didn't have to split the case so I am not sure what else would be left.
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paultjack
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#20

Post by paultjack »

With the help of a friend I managed get my engine out last night. I would say that with just a regular floor jack it's about nearly impossible to do it by ones self.

As I was getting ready to pull the engine I put the bike on the Center stand. This led me to have a good look at while, all of a sudden, my bike was sitting a bit lower while on the center stand. After a little investigation it was revealed that the center stand support tube had split from the weight of the bike rocking on it. Upon further investigation I discovered that there was a nice dent in the bottom of the removable frame causing it to be rusted out on the bottom.

I'm currently trying to find someone who welds to see if I have any ability to repair these parts. Other than the center stand support I don't see any additional rust on the frame. For the removable frame piece, I dont' see how that can be repaired.

I hate to say it, but this frame may be at the end of its life and I may have just spent my only on a parts bike.

As soon as my picture upload finishes I'll post some pics too. The upload isn't going well and has canceled twice already. So, you may have to wait until tomorrow to see. I was hoping to already have these pics up so as to get some feedback.
Do you know what it's like to fall in the mud and get kicked, in the head, by an iron boot? Of course you don't--no one does--that never happens. - Capt. Rex Kramer

'78 Honda GL1000 GoldWing
'86 Honda CMX450C Rebel
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#21

Post by Cookie »

Naaa,

As Wf discovered only one area besides the easily replaceable subframe seems to rust much. Frankly I could have fixed that when I was thirteen and bought my first torch mail order from Sears.
Just get some mild steel tube or about the same diameter and weld it in. With the subframe it migh just be easier to buy a good one from Cyclepsycho who sells them quite reasonably I hear. One guy said he reckoned the replacement subframe was cheaper than fixing it.
The real work is taking out the engine to fix that and you've done that job.
Enjoy life,
Cookie


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#22

Post by Whiskerfish »

Yeup. I have repaired several removable sections with some mild steel and welding. The same can be done with the centerstand support. If you are not up to the task I would find a farmer John machine shop and let them have a whack at it. I suspect a decent welder with the available metal would be able to fix you up in less than an hour. Should not be more than $100 but it will add a couple of pounds to the bike. You are going to want to strip the frame so then can flip it over and work on it properly. If they have to try and do the job while laying on the ground the price will go up significantly.
"Agreement is not a requirement for Respect" CDR Michael Smith USN (Ret) 2017
"The book is wrong, this whole Conclusion is Fallacious" River Tam
2008 GL1800 IIIA "TH3DOG"
1975/6/7/8/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike
and a whole garage full of possibilities!!

Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!
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#23

Post by sodbuster »

Hey paultjack -
If you haven't already be sure to check out ShopTalk as you're going along with your project as there's lots of good reading in there as well. You can click on the button in my signature.
'06 H-D Road King
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paultjack
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#24

Post by paultjack »

Thanks for all the support!

I have the entire frame stripped down now and it really does look just like the center stand piece and the removeable part need repaired. I loaded the frame an d side piece into the truck and drove them to church today (A little prayer can't hurt!) because one of the members is a professional welder. After church he took a look at it as said it all would be pretty easy to repair - pretty much like those who replied suggested. And, I think I'm only going to be charged parts!

That being said, The Goldwing Project is Still On!
ImageImageImageImage



So, I won't bore you with too many gorey details here's a few pics before the repair. It's going to get repaired this week so probably next weekend I'll have some pics of the repair. In the mean time it looks like the engine's getting torn apart for gasket replacement.

Image

Image

Here's the frame before I took the fork off. It's like a dog playing dead!
I think it pee'd on the floor too.
Image
Do you know what it's like to fall in the mud and get kicked, in the head, by an iron boot? Of course you don't--no one does--that never happens. - Capt. Rex Kramer

'78 Honda GL1000 GoldWing
'86 Honda CMX450C Rebel
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#25

Post by Cookie »

It's good to have friends!!!!
Enjoy life,
Cookie


A guy with two sidecars can't be all bad.
Owner of 4.4 76s and one lone 75 Wings (does a spare engine make .2?)
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paultjack
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#26

Post by paultjack »

Well, I've been slacking on my progress so it's time once again to pick up the pace! I visited my brother who lives in a complete shack on the side of a mountain. Lucky for me he's "Redo'n" his kitchen. That means I got a piece of 3 foot long counter top that I'm going to use for a work bench for the engine. It's taken him 3 weeks so far to put the counter top on and paint the walls! His neighbor told him the whole thing could have been done in 2 days. I think there's a reason why my brother is unemployed! LOL

So, what's my next step.... My plan is to build this stupid workbench and plop it down in the shed. With it being only 3' long I think it'll give me just enough space to put the engine and work on it. Of course, there'll be no room to put anything else on it. I've got a small shed! Down side is there's no Electricity! :-( But, lucky for me when I built it I purchased some extension cords long enough to reach. So, I'll atleast have some lights and a small heater going.


I stopped at Gunter's Machine Shop in Woodsboro to work out an estimate on a valve job. I may have screwed up. I have a compression gauge but FORGOT! to test prior to yanking the engine!!! So, here's my question. Now that I have the engine out, I'm assuming it's still possible to compression check, right? I mean, all I have to do is pull the plugs, put the tester on and hit the starter with some jumper cables... right?

The engine has something like 43k on it. What do you say, do I take the heads in anyway? The estimate was ~$150 - $175. I've not done Goldwing heads, but for some reason that price seemed a bit high for me. Thoughts on that?
Do you know what it's like to fall in the mud and get kicked, in the head, by an iron boot? Of course you don't--no one does--that never happens. - Capt. Rex Kramer

'78 Honda GL1000 GoldWing
'86 Honda CMX450C Rebel
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#27

Post by Sagebrush »

DO NOT GRIND THE VALVES! Lap them only. Just in case you didn't know :-D
Dean Spalding
Raleigh, NC

"Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the universe." - Albert Einstein

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Whiskerfish
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#28

Post by Whiskerfish »

paultjack wrote: So, here's my question. Now that I have the engine out, I'm assuming it's still possible to compression check, right? I mean, all I have to do is pull the plugs, put the tester on and hit the starter with some jumper cables... right?
Yeup thats how it can be done. If the engine has sat for any length of time you can expect the readings to be a bit low. In your cost estimates do not forget to figure in the gaskets for a head job. They are not cheap. For both heads: 2 head gaskets, 8 valve seals, oil passage orings, water jacket gaskets and orings, you can easily push a hundred bucks. 43k miles I would do the test and if she is in the 140-150 area I would let it go until she has some miles. This is completely a personal choice. Others would not even think about putting a engine in service that they have not done the heads on. I try to be a bit more optomistic (and cheap) :lol:
"Agreement is not a requirement for Respect" CDR Michael Smith USN (Ret) 2017
"The book is wrong, this whole Conclusion is Fallacious" River Tam
2008 GL1800 IIIA "TH3DOG"
1975/6/7/8/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike
and a whole garage full of possibilities!!

Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!
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paultjack
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#29

Post by paultjack »

Thanks Sagebrush, I totally forgot about just lapping the valves! Heck, I can do that myself in a few minutes!

Thanks Whiskerfish, will do on the compression before/after the lapping. I have all the seals and gaskets so the only cost is some lapping compounds and that funky suction cup tool...

I'll be sure inspect the valve faces to ensure there's nothing wonky with them...

This may not take to long then to get the engine ready for the frame!
Do you know what it's like to fall in the mud and get kicked, in the head, by an iron boot? Of course you don't--no one does--that never happens. - Capt. Rex Kramer

'78 Honda GL1000 GoldWing
'86 Honda CMX450C Rebel
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paultjack
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#30

Post by paultjack »

Seat Options.... I'm thinking ahead at this point.

Here's my dilema. My youngest son wants to ride along. I want the Gunfighter seat. I have my Rebel 450 which is more than enough to take both of us but it's not the Goldwing!
  • Hang on to the King/Queen seat I have and put the Gunfighter on later
  • Put the Gunfighter on and make the boy ride on the Rebel
  • Keep both and add some quick-release to swap the seats out quickly
Hmmm,
Image
almost seems self-evident now that I've written it down. I guess I'm keeping both and going with some quick-release. How can I leave the boy behind???? Perhaps I can make a backpack and carry my gunfighter along with me too! LOL How cool a dad can I be?!!
Do you know what it's like to fall in the mud and get kicked, in the head, by an iron boot? Of course you don't--no one does--that never happens. - Capt. Rex Kramer

'78 Honda GL1000 GoldWing
'86 Honda CMX450C Rebel
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