Pauls GL 1000 Project

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JBz
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#61

Post by JBz »

Back when I used to be in the autobody business back in the day of metal bumpers and stainless trim etc I would have the helper strip the car or truck wash it sand it and afterwards go along all the hard to get places with come or ajax t and a scothbright pad wet of course then a final rinse. Scotchbrite comes in differant coarseness depending on the color but never use it on chrome or glass or plastic . Fine grade steel wool used dry can be used on glass and chrome also but not plastic. JB
jbz........... Thinkin about sh-t too hard and You wont get anything done
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paultjack
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#62

Post by paultjack »

Quick update until I can get home and post some pics. My laptop at home is giving up the ghost and not cooperating.

Frame came home last night. The guy who welded it said parts I had welded looked pretty solid everwhere but where it had rusted. So, I'm happy I haven't scrapped my project - I've purchased a lot of '78 parts and would hate to sell those off at this point! If I did part out the bike I'd try for something like an 1100 as I like their tank a little better than the '78. The '78 tank is HUGE in the rear, but I do like the gauges on it!

For the center stand he cut the old piece out and welded in a metal bar instead. Then he cut off the stand from the old tube and welded it to the new bar. I'm not sure as the whole thing is sitting upside down at the moment, but I think he may have welded the center stand facing just a little bit too far forward. If that's the case I'll probably have to put a couple of shims where the stand contacts the stop to prevent it from swinging too far forward. I guess if I had to do it again I would have left the wheels on to give a better understanding of how far forward to mount the stand. Here's to hoping it's not too far!

Thanks Sunnbobb for that info. That's exactly the kind of buffer I was planning on getting. It looks like it'll do a much better job than my orbital.

And for others, yeah, stay away from the scotch brite and chrome! That's a bad thing! Scotch brite has some nasty teeth in it and will scratch the heck out of nearly anything.
Do you know what it's like to fall in the mud and get kicked, in the head, by an iron boot? Of course you don't--no one does--that never happens. - Capt. Rex Kramer

'78 Honda GL1000 GoldWing
'86 Honda CMX450C Rebel
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Whiskerfish
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#63

Post by Whiskerfish »

Yea believe it or not but you are not supposed to use scotchbrite for cleaning aquariums as it will scratch the glass. Gospel I know, been there got the scratched glass to prove it.
"Agreement is not a requirement for Respect" CDR Michael Smith USN (Ret) 2017
"The book is wrong, this whole Conclusion is Fallacious" River Tam
2008 GL1800 IIIA "TH3DOG"
1975/6/7/8/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike
and a whole garage full of possibilities!!

Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!
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#64

Post by paultjack »

Whiskerfish wrote:Yea believe it or not but you are not supposed to use scotchbrite for cleaning aquariums as it will scratch the glass. Gospel I know, been there got the scratched glass to prove it.
Guilty! Been there, done that! It really cleans nicely the first few times, But then there's too many scratches that hold the green and it's never the same :(
Do you know what it's like to fall in the mud and get kicked, in the head, by an iron boot? Of course you don't--no one does--that never happens. - Capt. Rex Kramer

'78 Honda GL1000 GoldWing
'86 Honda CMX450C Rebel
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#65

Post by gllimb »

keep on! ;)
gl1000 1978
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paultjack
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#66

Post by paultjack »

OK, time for my next update... This weather is killing me! I'm making very slow progress. So much rain!

So, today I pulled the valve covers and the fuel level sending unit. The sending unit was coated with rust. Now that I can actually see deep into the tank I can see the rust. It's not horrible and there's no soft spots in the tank. So, I'll probably get it coated. I'm not sure how to coat such a think though because of the fuel pickups that are welded to the bottom of the tank. I'll be searching for instructions but if you have some links or information feel free to help me out!

I took my sending unit and tested it's resistance. 0hms and 1ohm. Rusted, Short/open... what next? Well, I'll tell you! I dropped that sucker in my electrolysis rust removing tank and let it cook a while. After coming out of the tank I used compressed air and blew the thing out really well to dry the inside. After testing it it see now seems to function correctly. I coated everything with Naval Jelly rust preventer - It's an oil spray so I'm not worried about it screwing things up. After it gets stuck back in the gas the oil will just wash off anyway.

I have new valve cover grommets so I just used some nippers to cut them off. The ends have a tad bit of rust so into the rust tank they'll go. Currently the Headlight ears are soaking. I LOVE MY RUST TANK!

Started polishing the valve covers. Have one nearly finished after an hour of buffing. This is a lot of work! Sorry Sunnbobb, I'm going to stick through it and get it done, but I really wish I had the extra funds to send them your way!

Rain is expected tomorrow but clearing on Saturday and Sunday. So, I'm hoping to take a good ride on Saturday with the Rebel. That'll leave Sunday to do some actual on the wing! So far no takers on riding along.

That's the update! Hoping for progress Sunday![/code]
Do you know what it's like to fall in the mud and get kicked, in the head, by an iron boot? Of course you don't--no one does--that never happens. - Capt. Rex Kramer

'78 Honda GL1000 GoldWing
'86 Honda CMX450C Rebel
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lsgyger
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#67

Post by lsgyger »

paultjack wrote:OK, time for my next update... This weather is killing me! I'm making very slow progress. So much rain!

Rain is expected tomorrow but clearing on Saturday and Sunday. So, I'm hoping to take a good ride on Saturday with the Rebel. That'll leave Sunday to do some actual on the wing! So far no takers on riding along.

That's the update! Hoping for progress Sunday![/code]
Well, it was beautiful up my way! :lol: Got into the 60's and the sun was shining most of the day. I'm still waiting for my body panels to come back from the painters. I'm shooting for the end of this month to have the GL on the road.

I haven't heard back on where we can meet later on - somewhere around H-town?
Larry
75 GL1000 in various states of repair/restoration
In the Beginning - http://rides.webshots.com/album/560588072GnCGNH?start=0
...and Now - http://rides.webshots.com/album/564150904HcRkSK
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#68

Post by paultjack »

Finally, April 17, 2009 - The engine is now painted, the carbs are rebuilt, the air cleaner cleaned and painted, the aluminum covers have been buffed and the frame has been welded.

Things left to do:
- Finish buffing painted side covers and faux tank
- Paint Frame,
- Finish restoring tach and speedo
- Clean tank
- Replace tires
- Rebuild Brakes
- Replace Clutch
- Work out new lighting
- Recover seat
- Select Handle Bars
- Select fly screen

Man! That's a monster list still! I was thinking I was close to being done! So, this will probably take another month or two going at this rate! Oh well, I'm not too worried I'll still have lots of riding season left!

Engine pictures will be posted later tonight. My head is killing me from the cleaning and painting of the engine. It does look better than I expected though. :-D
Do you know what it's like to fall in the mud and get kicked, in the head, by an iron boot? Of course you don't--no one does--that never happens. - Capt. Rex Kramer

'78 Honda GL1000 GoldWing
'86 Honda CMX450C Rebel
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#69

Post by paultjack »

Image
During the cleaning process of the engine I noticed that the #4 clutch lever seems a bit wonky. It has a good bit of side movement that I was not expecting. I haven't taken the whole thing apart yet so all I have to go by is the drawing. From what I see it appears that #6 shaft has a collar on it that goes into the case. I'm assuming then that it's this shaft that turns on a ramp that causes the inward thrust.

I'm thinking that from force of the clutch cable pulling on the clutch lever that either the casing has worn oval or that the shaft has worn (or both).

Can someone confirm how much play there is a good setup? I'm getting ready to replace the clutch and if I have to replace some cover parts I want to get those out of the way same time.
Do you know what it's like to fall in the mud and get kicked, in the head, by an iron boot? Of course you don't--no one does--that never happens. - Capt. Rex Kramer

'78 Honda GL1000 GoldWing
'86 Honda CMX450C Rebel
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#70

Post by Whiskerfish »

I do not have one out to measure at this time But I remember being quite surprized at the amount of play in that lever.
"Agreement is not a requirement for Respect" CDR Michael Smith USN (Ret) 2017
"The book is wrong, this whole Conclusion is Fallacious" River Tam
2008 GL1800 IIIA "TH3DOG"
1975/6/7/8/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike
and a whole garage full of possibilities!!

Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!
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Carbs

#71

Post by gklugie »

I seem to have missed it..... how did you clean up the carbs? (I got the polishing of the tops and intake tubes, I am curious about the beautifully cleaned body parts)
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#72

Post by paultjack »

Carb cleaning was done on the bench. I split the Plenum and then began working on one carb at a time. As I removed all the internal parts of the carb I taped them to a drawing of their locations so I knew where each part went back in.

To remove the rubber manifold boot I ran hot water on them for a minute or so to soften the rubber. Then, using various cleaners, brushes, toothpicks, etc I set about to clean the carb. After it was cleaned as well as possible I blasted it with lots of compressed air and carb cleaner in all the holes.

Then, I reassembled the carb, replacing the worn pieces and all the gaskets. I also set the float height. After the carb was finished with the assembly I lubed the moving parts.

Then, when one of the carbs was finished I screwed it back on the plenum side and moved on to the next one until all 4 carbs were completed.

After the carbs were finished and reassembled I once again went through and verified all the linkages were lubed. I put on all new hoses and plenum gaskets The only rubber pieces I reused were the rubber carb plugs. (I hope this wasn't a mistake!) They seemed to fit snuggly so I don't think that'll give me a problem, but if one does arise that'll be one of the first things I'll change out.

I purchased 50 1mm cotter pins from ebay for something like $2 so all the cotter pins were replaced too.

I did require some of the brass pieces from my carb kits so I'm glad I purchased them. However, the kits lacked some of the much needed pieces such as new plenum screws, cotter pins, plenum gaskets, air cutoff gaskets, fuel filter....

Had I not needed the brass pieces purchasing Randakk's kit would have been much more economical! In fact, I could have purchased Randakk's kit and then the additional brass pieces I needed and I would have come out a little bit better. After adding everything up, Randakk's kit is a great bargain.



I worked on the frame tonight getting it primed. The primer stunk and now I've got a headache so the pics will have to wait until tomorrow...
Do you know what it's like to fall in the mud and get kicked, in the head, by an iron boot? Of course you don't--no one does--that never happens. - Capt. Rex Kramer

'78 Honda GL1000 GoldWing
'86 Honda CMX450C Rebel
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Track T 2411
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#73

Post by Track T 2411 »

Hey! Curious as to what you're using for primer/paint as I'll be getting on mine shortly. All advice is appreciated!

Good luck!
Todd
"I have no special talent. I am only passionately curious." - Albert Einstein

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"If you can't take the time to do it right the first time, how are you ever going to find the time to do it over?" -Unknown

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'Grumpy' - '81 Standard, now fully dressed.
'Layla' - '81 Standard w/dealer installed fairing and Hondaline bags.
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Under Construction:
The 'Jalopy' '78-'79 Mash-up
'Quikie' '81 gl1100I back on the lift, project with the step-son!

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'81 gl1100I barn find aka "Josie, the farmer's daughter." (almost comatose build)
'77 gl1000, roller parts bike.
'82 gl1100I, 'Old Crusty' titled roller parts bike (free!)
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paultjack
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#74

Post by paultjack »

Well, I don't claim to be an expert in anything I do. I don't even screw off correctly! So, take what I did with a grain of salt.

For the engine I first washed it with some engine degreaser. While that did help it didn't really clean it as well as I wanted. So, with the engine back on the carport I set about scrubbing the heck out of it with some very course steel wool. What a mess! Steel wool pieces everywhere! Bit it did clean it quite well. Then, the wash it down before painting I thought some Break Cleaner might do the trick. WRONG! That stuff removes paint! And I had huge flecks of silver paint coming off everywhere! That just caused me lots of cleaning again. But after getting the engine cleaned off I set about taping off all the covers and holes and wires. I left the valve covers and timing covers on and just taped over the gaskets.

After taping everything it was time to hit it with some primer. I used dupli-color primer for this. After a couple of coats it was time to hit it with the engine enamel silver paint. That took an entire can. After that set up a bit I covered the whole thing in a couple coats of clear.

For the frame I scrubbed that down with steel wool too. I taped off all the decals and screws and bolts that I didn't want painted and then I taped off the final drive and put a plastic bag over it. There were a lot of spots with rust so while steel wooling it I also was using a wire brush to clean off all the loose paint. I first put on a spray-on rust-to-black primer coating. While this did work, it only works on rusted metal! Anywhere there was clean exposed metal it just remained that way. I went over the whole thing with a coat of flat black primer. I REALLY liked the way the flat black looked on the frame! I really almost stopped there.

But, then I hit it with 2 cans of black enamel. And finished up with several coats of clear. The end result of the frame is way beyond my dreams! It looks almost powder coated! Now I just need to let it set up a couple of days to harden.

I snapped a couple of pics so I'll post those when I post the engine pics. I'm heading out for a ride on the rebel for a couple of hours to decompress a bit so the pics still have to wait! LOL
Do you know what it's like to fall in the mud and get kicked, in the head, by an iron boot? Of course you don't--no one does--that never happens. - Capt. Rex Kramer

'78 Honda GL1000 GoldWing
'86 Honda CMX450C Rebel
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paultjack
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#75

Post by paultjack »

OK, back on target!

Here's the Before and After engine pictures
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Note that I only have the carbs sitting on the engine and not bolted down. The valve and timing covers are going to be polished once more and have not been installed with new screws and grommets yet. I still have the timing belts and clutch to do before the engine's ready to be put back in the frame.
Image
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Frame after welding
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Some of the frame painting
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Image

While I had the triple tree apart I packed the steering bearings. Nice and smooth now! Smooth like a baby's bottom!
Last edited by paultjack on Sat Apr 18, 2009 8:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Do you know what it's like to fall in the mud and get kicked, in the head, by an iron boot? Of course you don't--no one does--that never happens. - Capt. Rex Kramer

'78 Honda GL1000 GoldWing
'86 Honda CMX450C Rebel
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