And So It Begins - A GL1000 Resto

A forum for stories, pics and updates of your resto's. Be it a barn find, Grampas hand me down or a bike being brought back to it's former glory.If you are restoring it, show us your stuff!

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Track T 2411
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Re: And So It Begins - A GL1000 Resto

#91

Post by Track T 2411 »

You may be able to loosen the motor mounts and move the engine around enough in the frame to get to it. I've 'hung' my engine from the rear top motor mounts, leaving the drive shaft clip, etc. in place, and lowering the front of f the engine. As said above, removing the cover will help.
"I have no special talent. I am only passionately curious." - Albert Einstein

"He that is good with a hammer tends to think everything is a nail" - Abraham Maslow

"If you can't take the time to do it right the first time, how are you ever going to find the time to do it over?" -Unknown

Current Rides:
'Grumpy' - '81 Standard, now fully dressed.
'Layla' - '81 Standard w/dealer installed fairing and Hondaline bags.
'Scarlett' '76 'Survivor' nekkid as a j-bird!

Under Construction:
The 'Jalopy' '78-'79 Mash-up
'Quikie' '81 gl1100I back on the lift, project with the step-son!

In The Shed:
'81 gl1100I barn find aka "Josie, the farmer's daughter." (almost comatose build)
'77 gl1000, roller parts bike.
'82 gl1100I, 'Old Crusty' titled roller parts bike (free!)
'82 gl1100I, My first 'Wing, and an expensive lesson!
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BruteSquad
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Re: And So It Begins - A GL1000 Resto

#92

Post by BruteSquad »

Thanks guys. I haven't removed the cover to see how much I have but will post up when I do. Really don't want to pull the motor right now (even part way) but if I have to I have to.
1977 GL1000
2006 DL650 VStrom

“Always do what you are afraid to do.” - Ralph Waldo Emerson
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BruteSquad
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Re: And So It Begins - A GL1000 Resto

#93

Post by BruteSquad »

Some good news, the screw is proud.
20210825_213238-.jpg
I've got to get the dowel out but then I should be able to remove the leftovers with pliers.

I'm assuming I'll tear up the dowel pin so I'll need a replacement. Can anyone confirm it's the same as the other 2? I don't see it in the exploded view.
Screenshot 2021-08-26 184939.png
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1977 GL1000
2006 DL650 VStrom

“Always do what you are afraid to do.” - Ralph Waldo Emerson
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gltriker
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Re: And So It Begins - A GL1000 Resto

#94

Post by gltriker »

BruteSquad wrote: Thu Aug 26, 2021 6:51 pm Some good news, the screw is proud.

20210825_213238-.jpg

I've got to get the dowel out but then I should be able to remove the leftovers with pliers.

I'm assuming I'll tear up the dowel pin so I'll need a replacement. Can anyone confirm it's the same as the other 2? I don't see it in the exploded view.

Screenshot 2021-08-26 184939.png
:-D

Even better to remove the remnants of the broken screw, too! :-D
Clamp down tightly on the dowel with vice grips and work it back and forth in small increments to eventually break the broken screw loose in the process.
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Re: And So It Begins - A GL1000 Resto

#95

Post by BruteSquad »

Well, I buggered it good. I think I'm hosed now. The dowel is mangled and seems to have become one with the screw. They now have a nice taper so I can't get any kind of pliers to grab them and am very limited in my angle. I'm not even sure if the engine were out I could grab onto them. I think it's time to pull the motor and do a left handed bit but thought I check to see if anyone had any good ideas before I do all that.
20210827_164148.jpg
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1977 GL1000
2006 DL650 VStrom

“Always do what you are afraid to do.” - Ralph Waldo Emerson
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Track T 2411
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Re: And So It Begins - A GL1000 Resto

#96

Post by Track T 2411 »

You might try a sharp cold chisel working the edge of the dowel counter-clockwise. PB Blaster and heat are your friends, too...
"I have no special talent. I am only passionately curious." - Albert Einstein

"He that is good with a hammer tends to think everything is a nail" - Abraham Maslow

"If you can't take the time to do it right the first time, how are you ever going to find the time to do it over?" -Unknown

Current Rides:
'Grumpy' - '81 Standard, now fully dressed.
'Layla' - '81 Standard w/dealer installed fairing and Hondaline bags.
'Scarlett' '76 'Survivor' nekkid as a j-bird!

Under Construction:
The 'Jalopy' '78-'79 Mash-up
'Quikie' '81 gl1100I back on the lift, project with the step-son!

In The Shed:
'81 gl1100I barn find aka "Josie, the farmer's daughter." (almost comatose build)
'77 gl1000, roller parts bike.
'82 gl1100I, 'Old Crusty' titled roller parts bike (free!)
'82 gl1100I, My first 'Wing, and an expensive lesson!
New2U Bike? Read Me.
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Re: And So It Begins - A GL1000 Resto

#97

Post by BruteSquad »

Pulled my exhaust hoping to get a better angle on the dowel, but no dice. Exhaust has a couple places where it's rusted through but most of it seems okay. Any luck repairing these or is this just scrap metal now?
20210830_210017.jpg
20210830_210126.jpg
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1977 GL1000
2006 DL650 VStrom

“Always do what you are afraid to do.” - Ralph Waldo Emerson
digger
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Re: And So It Begins - A GL1000 Resto

#98

Post by digger »

Plus 1 on what Track T said and don’t be in a hurry! PB Blaster and a little heat applied twice a day over a period of days might do wonders. Sometimes rushing a thing like this will cost you more time in the long run.
1975 GL1000
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Dr. Frankenstein
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Re: And So It Begins - A GL1000 Resto

#99

Post by Dr. Frankenstein »

Plus 1 on what TrackT and Digger said about the heat and PB Blaster - I run across these bolts all the time; there's always ONE, y'know...?? And it's usually Always in the most P-I-T-A area...I replaced all mine with Allen heads.

Lay some heat and Blaster on it, get a good pair of needle-nose vise grips (or whatever you can get a good grip on it with) and heat it, spray it, heat it, tap it gently back and forth, rock it back and forth, try to twist/turn it - the objective is to get some PB down into the shaft and loosen things up. I have a Harbor Freight 1500 watt dual-setting heat gun I've had for years that works Great for the heat. $16.99 and worth every penny! (FYI Their 1/2" electric impact wrench is pretty good too).

What TrackT said about the cold chisels is a good idea too - again, Harbor Freight sells an actually-quite-good quality wood chisel set for less than $9! Very sharp edges to bite into the metal. I also sometimes use a little hand-held engraver and diamond cutting wheel (HF again - less than $20 for both) to cut a notch into the offending bolt/screw so it can take a flat-head screwdriver, add a little valve grinding compound to the blade and try turning it - the compound helps the screwdriver bite better.

It''ll come - you just have to work with it. Their 5-Pc Long Drift Pin Punch Set ($8.99) is nice to have too, and I've found a 5-lb sledge adds a bit of 'oomph' to getting it to turn.

For the muffler, my preferred parts store here - Advance Auto - sells JB Weld Extreme Heat in the muffler section, used to patch holes in mufflers like the one you have here. It goes on semi-liquid and sets up super hard; comes in a little white 3-oz plastic container for about $8. Very easy to work with but if you don't use it all, it too sets up super-hard in the container! There's also something called 'Tiger Patch' tape for bigger holes that is heat activated - you have to run the engine to let it set up - but I haven't used it yet.

Oh, and speaking of which - the Dollar Store sells a three-pack of those little wire/brass/plastic brushes for a dollar that you usually pay one or two dollars Apiece for elsewhere; AND a precision screwdriver set that comes in handy for tapping out float pins - just sayin'.

Are you using JIS screwdrivers? Japanese bikes are made with JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screws, and they are Not Philips head screws; I have a set of Vessel Megadora's that I use ONLY on my bikes; a little pricy for screwdrivers, but they make a big difference.

If I come across a screw that just does not want to turn, before I strip it out I'll take the appropriate JIS screwdriver, add some compound to the end, place it in the screw-head and take a big vise-grips and clamp it firmly onto the shaft of the screwdriver; press into the screw/bolt hard with one hand and use the vise-grips to turn the shaft of the screwdriver - more often than not it'll crack loose. If NOT - well, then it's time to get Medieval on it! :lol:
Last edited by Dr. Frankenstein on Sat Sep 18, 2021 9:30 am, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: And So It Begins - A GL1000 Resto

#100

Post by Dr. Frankenstein »

On a Production note, I see you're trying to get the water pump cover in shape - I have two GL1000's, a '75 and a '78, and found that the gasket set a lot of people use - the KP High Performance Gasket Set usually found on Ebay - is (in my experience) lacking the right O-ring that fits on the face of the oil pump body. There's a little groove on there that the O-ring is supposed to fit into, but after doing two of these machines, in both cases I have found there is not an O-ring in the kit that will stay on there, it's about 1 1/2mm too small; I've had to order the OEM O-ring, number 27 in the parts diagram (O-ring, 29x2.2 91345-580-000), and that fits right in. Everything else in the kit is fine.
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Re: And So It Begins - A GL1000 Resto

#101

Post by Steven UK »

I have been mechanic'ing for a while with a a primary profession and as a hobby... I would find a good welder and tack a nut to it. the heat from the welding will free up the broken bolt then give you something to put a wrench on. the first time I saw this was a starter stud in a F150 aluminium bell housing broken flush, and the guy used a stick welder. when I do it I use a big welder. Mig won't be much use to you. good luck... Regards Steven
GL1100 1981 (A bike that is determined not to be ridden...!)
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