1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

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toolbox
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#646

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5speed wrote:That is looking fantastic...
Couple of pointers for the aluminum oxide.
Set your air pressure to around 40 psi max. It will do it's job but it will also give you more "mileage" out of your media.
Also..I always prebake anything I'm going to blast to cook out any oil, grease etc. I then wipe it down with gun wash (solvent for cleaning paint guns) if it has a lot of gunk on it.
Then I blast it, then wipe it down with the solvent..this time wearing nitrile or latex gloves to keep the oil from my hands getting on the metal.
Wear a respirator..this stuff creates a lot of dust.
A fyi type story.
When I bought the blasting cabinet I have now from the crown asset auction it came full of silica sand. To satisfy my curiosity I blasted a winchester model 94 I was refinishing with it.
It looked great as far as surface prep, the finish looked great after I baked it..and I proceeded to scratch it off with my finger nail. :-?
So..out came the silica sand and in went the aluminum oxide.
Thanks for the tips man! I'm sure they'll come in handy :).

Few things from yesterday... My meat thermometer arrived from Amazon...

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Yep, gonna cook like a pro :lol: . Unit looks like pretty good quality for the money...

It's got a surprising number of features for the money. I might actually have to get one for my kitchen lol.

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Looks like both probes read about the same. It was pretty warm in my truck with it sitting in the sun :). Responds very quickly to temperature changes, and appears to be accurate. I really might buy one to use for its intended purpose lol.

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It's supposed to read up to 700 something degrees I think, so it should work fine for PC. I actually tested it with my garage toaster oven last night when I baked my clutch lever...turns out it doesn't quite get up to 400*. It's kind of funny, but I guess I never really thought about it...I just set it to 400* and let it run. I guess it makes sense that the thermostat in it wouldn't exactly be laboratory grade...I mean, it's not like you need pinpoint precision temperatures to cook a bagel or a mini frozen pizza :lol: . Anyway, even though it doesn't quite hit 400*, it still apparently works... Speaking of the clutch lever, it turned out pretty nice.

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I wasn't even thinking about the screw head being chromed until I tossed it back in there...I might want to black that out too. Also spent some time cleaning up the handlebar switches... The starter switch was pretty gooey.

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I hosed it out with electronics cleaner, and smooshed some dielectric grease into it. MUCH smoother now, and I have to think it'll have lower resistance now too. Gave the same treatment to the high beam and turn signal switches.

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High beam switch was was actually pretty stiff before...much better now. Before I had to kind of wrench on it, and now it feels like it should. Pretty glad I ended up digging back through all that stuff...

Oh, and I also confirmed this--

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Lens is cracked :roll: . I noticed in one of my own pics yesterday that it looked like it had a line in it...figured it must be a weird reflection...it wasn't :/. I've had that side light wrapped up in a piece of fabric to keep it from getting scratched up while I've been doing this stuff...only thing I can figure is maybe I hit with the brake MC when I was taking the bars apart? I don't know...it's really odd. But, whatever...better to have the glass damaged than the paint I guess. At least it's an easy fix...if I buy another pair, I guess at least I'll have a spare :-? .

Moving on to the shelter, I got the red layer set up... Here's one side with the top lines laid out.

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And with the guide stripe pulled...

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And with the tongue pattern in place...

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And finally all taped up...

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Looks a bit like one of the banana headed creatures from Alien lol. I'll hopefully spray a little primer on it at lunch, and the red when I get off work. Give it a couple of days to cure, and then it's on to what might be the biggest challenge--teeth :shock: .
My cable lube might be here tomorrow, so I can get the clutch cable installed...also need to hack together my PC oven, so plenty of stuff to do still :).
Last edited by toolbox on Mon Jun 11, 2018 8:53 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#647

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I'm looking forward to seeing your PC oven.
Kevin
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#648

Post by Sagebrush »

Where in Montana are you located? After the rally in Deadwood in August the wife and I are headed to Glacier, NP specifically St. Mary, MT. We'll be traveling through Billings then up through Great Falls. I'm hoping you'll get this thing on the road this spring and consider joining us in Deadwood.
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#649

Post by 5speed »

when we modified our warming oven we used the switch from the stove we got the element from. Like you discovered..the thermostat in them isn't very accurate.
I used my gauge to determine where I needed to set the switch to get the temp I needed and marked it with a sharpie.
1982 1100 standard. (sold)
1986 Yamaha FJ1200
2000 Yamaha Roadstar
1976 GoldWing. running but not on the road
1978 Goldwing. future cafe project.
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toolbox
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#650

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Sagebrush wrote:Where in Montana are you located? After the rally in Deadwood in August the wife and I are headed to Glacier, NP specifically St. Mary, MT. We'll be traveling through Billings then up through Great Falls. I'm hoping you'll get this thing on the road this spring and consider joining us in Deadwood.
I'm south of Missoula...about 4 hours one way from either Great Falls or Glacier. If you've never made a trip through that part of the state, you're in for a treat...eastern Montana is basically a desert, with badlands, plains, and a lot of sagebrush/wheat fields/rattlesnakes :). I think it's really pretty, but it's just about the polar opposite from where I'm at...
You'll cross the rocky mountain front, and head up into the rockies...it'll be a beautiful trip. If you're making it in summer, be prepared for heat...eastern Montana sees a lot of triple digits in the summer. It actually gets that hot a lot in summer in my neck of the woods.

Would love to make a run to Deadwood, but I have a feeling life will get in the way :oops: . Between work/kids/budget/that sort of thing, it's pretty tough for me to get away at all at this stage in life. At some point I would love to though :).
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#651

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5speed wrote:when we modified our warming oven we used the switch from the stove we got the element from. Like you discovered..the thermostat in them isn't very accurate.
I used my gauge to determine where I needed to set the switch to get the temp I needed and marked it with a sharpie.
That works :). The setup I'm building now will actually need a little bit of babysitting since it doesn't even have a thermostat, just a timer...but since it's only ever going to run for like a half an hour, It'll probably be fine. I can upgrade later..at least with the meat thermometer, I can see what's going on in there and power it on or off accordingly. I guess I get to be the thermostat for now :lol: .
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#652

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BikeMaine wrote:I'm looking forward to seeing your PC oven.
Be careful what you wish for :lol: . Mine would only be considered attractive if you're into the "garbage pulled from the remains of a barn fire" aesthetic :lol: .

So, yesterday on my lunch break I wanted to get my primer sprayed on the shelter...

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But, that only takes like five minutes so I decided to work on my PC oven... The idea that I came up with consists of these components...call it the "Worlds Cheapest Powder Coat Oven Kit"--

One old mouse chewed package of R11 insulation left over from a project five years ago.

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One somewhat yucky early 1970s toaster oven that once served as my garage oven.

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And one burned out oil drum that last served as an incinerator for burning pine needles.

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My neighbors probably see a pile of garbage you couldn't give away with a free sign on it, but my inner redneck sees pure gold :lol: .
So, this is how I put it all together...

I lined the barrel with the insulation...

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Tossed the toaster oven in the bottom, and put a couple of pieces of insulation on top to form a lid (at least for this test)...

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The meat thermometer has handy magnets on the back so it just sticks to the barrel...
So, how'd it do? Check it--

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It was 360* and climbing when I had to pull the plug and go back to work...that's actually hotter than my garage toaster oven gets, and it wasn't done yet. Success! :lol: So, with a proof-of-concept under my belt, I decided to see if I could eliminate most of the toaster oven in order to increase the amount of room in the barrel. It came apart pretty easily.

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I went further and scavenged the heating elements, wiring and timer.

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This weekend, I'll probably weld up a little bracket to hold the heaters, and just set that in the bottom. There's enough high temp wire that it should all hook up just fine. Might also put this in to keep the insulation clear of any parts...

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I might paint the barrel black so I don't get rust all over myself handling it. Also going to weld a couple of brackets in so I can suspend a pipe in the middle--that way I can hang a bunch of parts off the pipe, and just drop the whole thing in to cook. Might be able to fit the thing back by the rocket stove in my garage, and just leave it there...

Anyway, it looks like it will work fine. Total cost--$18. For the meat thermometer lol. If I had to piece it together...I know I paid $10 for the barrel off craigslist, $3 for the toaster oven at a thrift store. Don't remember what the insulation was...it doesn't take much, so you might be able to get a couple of leftover bats for very little or free. Figure maybe fifty bucks for the whole thing? Honestly, if you have enough insulation it doesn't really matter what the container is made from...the barrel barely gets warm. A big cardboard box would work if it really had to lol. Anyway, the barrel seems like a good compromise between having enough room inside for multiple parts, without being so big that it takes forever to warm up, or require a 220V heating element. And did I mention it was cheap? :lol:

Final thing last night was spraying the red...

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And after pulling the tape...

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I think it looks really good... There's a 1/8" black outline around the mouth, a 1/8" red line on top, and then the tongue. I'll let it harden up for a few days...then it's on to the teeth :shock: . After that, I might give it one more decoration...we'll see. More on that later.

Anyway, won't be working on it tonight, but I'll have time Friday and this weekend. I'll probably try and finish the oven, and maybe the bars and some other parts coated.
Last edited by toolbox on Mon Jun 11, 2018 8:54 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#653

Post by 5speed »

the tank looks great.
As for your oven..grade A redneck ingenuity there. action1
Do you have 220 in your garage?
1982 1100 standard. (sold)
1986 Yamaha FJ1200
2000 Yamaha Roadstar
1976 GoldWing. running but not on the road
1978 Goldwing. future cafe project.
2019 Can-Am ryker (boss's new ride)

2002 Shadow American Classic(sold)
1983 Shadow 500. (sold)
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#654

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action1
Last edited by gltriker on Thu Mar 22, 2018 6:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#655

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I like your oven Man. Good idea using a steel drum.
Just out of curiosity I have to ask, why not put the insulation on the outside of the drum? It would give you more space inside.
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

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5speed wrote:the tank looks great.
As for your oven..grade A redneck ingenuity there. action1
Do you have 220 in your garage?
Thanks man! I have a redneck streak a country mile wide, which used to manifest itself in far less productive ways in my youth :lol: . And I don't actually have 220 service in the garage :oops: . For years I've thought about running it out there and putting in a dedicated circuit breaker for just the garage, but the fools that renovated that end of the house didn't leave any access to where I'd need to run it :x . So, I'd end up having to hack my way in, and that's been enough to stifle the motivation to do so lol. Again, something else for that big shop I want to build someday haha. Right now if I want 220, I have to drag out the generator unfortunately...which is why I pretty much needed to find a way to make a 110V oven. Not ideal, but it looks like it should work :).
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#657

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gltriker wrote:action1
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

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BikeMaine wrote:I like your oven Man. Good idea using a steel drum.
Just out of curiosity I have to ask, why not put the insulation on the outside of the drum? It would give you more space inside.
Glad you asked :). Couple of reasons actually...first is just a practical one--if I have to move it around, it's really easy to handle...I can just grab the barrel without making a fiberglass mess. Second (and more importantly), it's more efficient that way...the airspace inside will hold heat really well, and will get hotter faster. The bare steel would act as a heatsink, where the insulation doesn't really. With a bigger heating element (like a 220V one from a kitchen oven), it wouldn't really matter...if you throw enough BTUs into an air space, you can overpower whatever inefficiencies there are. Kind of the same theory I have with my house...it leaks like a sieve, but if I dump massive BTUs into it with the wood stove, I can still get toasty warm :lol: . With my little toaster oven heating elements, I think it probably helps to make it as efficient as possible, and keep cooking time to a minimum. More often than not, there's a method to my madness :lol: .
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

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toolbox wrote:
Thanks man! I have a redneck streak a country mile wide, which used to manifest itself in far less productive ways in my youth :lol: . And I don't actually have 220 service in the garage :oops: . For years I've thought about running it out there and putting in a dedicated circuit breaker for just the garage, but the fools that renovated that end of the house didn't leave any access to where I'd need to run it :x . So, I'd end up having to hack my way in, and that's been enough to stifle the motivation to do so lol. Again, something else for that big shop I want to build someday haha. Right now if I want 220, I have to drag out the generator unfortunately...which is why I pretty much needed to find a way to make a 110V oven. Not ideal, but it looks like it should work :).
lol..I can relate.
The reason I asked is..you built a bigger version of our first oven.
we took a section of 7" flue pipe, 2 reducers that knocked it down to 5", put the 5" inside the 7", surrounded it with fiberglass insulation,pop riveted the reducers in place and made a damper for one end out of a cap.
We then removed one of the burners from the old kitchen stove we had, cut a hole through the top of the over under it, set the flu pipe in the hole and voila..an oven capable of baking rifle and shotgun actions.
I thought I had a picture of our creation but I can't find it.
1982 1100 standard. (sold)
1986 Yamaha FJ1200
2000 Yamaha Roadstar
1976 GoldWing. running but not on the road
1978 Goldwing. future cafe project.
2019 Can-Am ryker (boss's new ride)

2002 Shadow American Classic(sold)
1983 Shadow 500. (sold)
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Re: 1982 GL1100 Corpse resurrection...er restoration...

#660

Post by BikeMaine »

toolbox wrote:
BikeMaine wrote:I like your oven Man. Good idea using a steel drum.
Just out of curiosity I have to ask, why not put the insulation on the outside of the drum? It would give you more space inside.
Glad you asked :). Couple of reasons actually...first is just a practical one--if I have to move it around, it's really easy to handle...I can just grab the barrel without making a fiberglass mess. Second (and more importantly), it's more efficient that way...the airspace inside will hold heat really well, and will get hotter faster. The bare steel would act as a heatsink, where the insulation doesn't really. With a bigger heating element (like a 220V one from a kitchen oven), it wouldn't really matter...if you throw enough BTUs into an air space, you can overpower whatever inefficiencies there are. Kind of the same theory I have with my house...it leaks like a sieve, but if I dump massive BTUs into it with the wood stove, I can still get toasty warm :lol: . With my little toaster oven heating elements, I think it probably helps to make it as efficient as possible, and keep cooking time to a minimum. More often than not, there's a method to my madness :lol: .
I understand the heat-sink problem, and I was assuming that was your reason. I would just be afraid of having little pieces of fiberglass baked into my powder coating. Maybe they wouldn't show.

Either way, I still like the oven Brother.
Kevin
1982 GL1100A
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