Hoping for the best with a $300 1976 GL1000

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218017765
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Re: Hoping for the best with a $300 1976 GL1000

#31

Post by 218017765 »

Welcome to the adventure raiddrten! I am a vintage twin guy myself who just jumped in on a 1976 Goldwing (though I paid a bit more for a road ready one). I am going to take your advice on polishing up the timing belt covers. Your post is timely as my wife is bugging me to give her ideas for Christmas presents.
1976 Honda Goldwing GL1000
Previous rides:
1978 HD Ironhead Sportster (1000)
1971 BSA Firebird Scrambler (650)
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rcmatt007
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Re: Hoping for the best with a $300 1976 GL1000

#32

Post by rcmatt007 »

If you do not known when the timing belts were changed I would strongly encourage it. Welcome to NGW
-Rodger-
all it takes for evil to prosper is the want of a few good men to do nothing-Edmund Burke
The question is not how much time do you have, it is what you do with the time that you have Gandalf
"One of the greatest dignities of humankind is that each successive generation is invested in the welfare of each new generation." Fred Rodgers
"it takes 10,000 hours to become an expert" ancient saying
78 constantly modified/customized since 1978, BOTM June 2015 de-evolving this very moment viewtopic.php?f=30&t=65511
76 Ltd "cookies bike" ALMOST DONE
79 project, finished, FOR SALE
'86 1200 (Beth's)(FOR SALE) with motorvation sidecar (sidecar sold) , July 2017 BOTM
'17 HD Road king and 08 HD Heritage softail (Beth's) (FOR SALE). I guess you can say we have MBS
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Graham Cracker
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Re: Hoping for the best with a $300 1976 GL1000

#33

Post by Graham Cracker »

CYBORG wrote:
Track T 2411 wrote:
5speed wrote:what is this "I spent X number of dollars on my bike" thing? :mrgreen:
Right! lolol lolol lolol
Not sure I want to know what I spend on bikes ;)
Me too, and besides....I've never seen a Brinks truck following a hearse crossy.gif
Mark

1975 GL 1000 Candy Antares Red
1976 GL 1000 Sulfur Yellow
1977 GL 1000 Pearl White
1978 GL 1000 Candy Limited Maroon
raiddrten
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Re: Hoping for the best with a $300 1976 GL1000

#34

Post by raiddrten »

So here is what the bike needs as of now to get it running.

1.valve cover gaskets and also bushings to stop the oil leaks
2. water pump o-ring as I have read that they usually need replaced
3. timing belt gaskets for the front.
4. new bolt, grommet, and special washer for the front cover as PO lost one of them.
5. timing belts
6. Randakks kit, video, and four fuel needles [seats look OK and OEM] float pins as one of them was not a float pin , but
a tiny cotter key.

And the stuff that will be needed to get it on the road after it starts and runs.

7. tach gear and fuel pump group as PO lost them
8. Tires. Maybe Ok for light testing, but they are ancient, but not cracked.
9. King-queen seat cover, but OK for now
10. Air box has had the horn cut off crudely with tin snips
11. Gasket from plenum to air box
12 air filter
13. oil change and filter
14. Rear fender is badly cracked and botched weld with stick welder
15. clear coat paint to bring the tins back in shape
16. Repair muffler pipe at joint with header. Muffler appears very solid otherwise.
17. Battery

18. Anything else that shows up or maybe things that are easy to get to while the carbs and wheels are off the bike
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Re: Hoping for the best with a $300 1976 GL1000

#35

Post by low-side »

I'd also read and follow Randakk's advice on starting an engine that has sat for a long period of time. I've revised my own procedure as a result of his.
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Re: Hoping for the best with a $300 1976 GL1000

#36

Post by Track T 2411 »

From the looks of your list, you've got a pretty solid plan. One suggestion/observation I will make is that the water pump and it's associated o-rings are not accessible without removing the front transmission cover. The water pump itself can be checked for obvious play by removing the lower radiator hose outlet (two bolts and an o-ring).
"I have no special talent. I am only passionately curious." - Albert Einstein

"He that is good with a hammer tends to think everything is a nail" - Abraham Maslow

"If you can't take the time to do it right the first time, how are you ever going to find the time to do it over?" -Unknown

Current Rides:
'Grumpy' - '81 Standard, now fully dressed.
'Layla' - '81 Standard w/dealer installed fairing and Hondaline bags.
'Scarlett' '76 'Survivor' nekkid as a j-bird!

Under Construction:
The 'Jalopy' '78-'79 Mash-up
'Quikie' '81 gl1100I back on the lift, project with the step-son!

In The Shed:
'81 gl1100I barn find aka "Josie, the farmer's daughter." (almost comatose build)
'77 gl1000, roller parts bike.
'82 gl1100I, 'Old Crusty' titled roller parts bike (free!)
'82 gl1100I, My first 'Wing, and an expensive lesson!
New2U Bike? Read Me.
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Re: Hoping for the best with a $300 1976 GL1000

#37

Post by raiddrten »

So I found a picture of a water pump shaft as viewed from beneath the front transmission cover. It looks like the cover might need a new gasket as well if removed. I guess that you check the shaft for side to side play then? BTW the picture i found shows three bolts holding the water pump, but it might be from another model.

I hurt my ankle something fierce yesterday so I can't get to the bike right now. However, there was a rust stain on the left side under the belt covers. I am wondering if the weep hole from the water pump caused that?

You guys rock. This is the kind of "you better check this" or "be careful of that" information that is hard to find on a lot of forums. Because the bike is very accessible to R&R stuff , right now is the time to check things.

I have read the info on starting a long sitting bike and plan to do so again. Solid advice.

I drove by a "for sale" brown 'Wing yesterday for $1500. Makes you wonder a little.....
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Track T 2411
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Re: Hoping for the best with a $300 1976 GL1000

#38

Post by Track T 2411 »

Roady did a great 'Front End Renewal' thread that can be found in ShopTalk that covers everything about the water pump. Basically, though, you check the pump for side-to- side play and excessive free rotation. There are a couple of gaskets and several o-rings that come into play. Numerous venders sell aftermarket gasket kits. The transmission cover gasket is especially important, as there can be clearance issues with the shifting mechanism under the cover. I personally use the OEM cover gasket, but that's me...
"I have no special talent. I am only passionately curious." - Albert Einstein

"He that is good with a hammer tends to think everything is a nail" - Abraham Maslow

"If you can't take the time to do it right the first time, how are you ever going to find the time to do it over?" -Unknown

Current Rides:
'Grumpy' - '81 Standard, now fully dressed.
'Layla' - '81 Standard w/dealer installed fairing and Hondaline bags.
'Scarlett' '76 'Survivor' nekkid as a j-bird!

Under Construction:
The 'Jalopy' '78-'79 Mash-up
'Quikie' '81 gl1100I back on the lift, project with the step-son!

In The Shed:
'81 gl1100I barn find aka "Josie, the farmer's daughter." (almost comatose build)
'77 gl1000, roller parts bike.
'82 gl1100I, 'Old Crusty' titled roller parts bike (free!)
'82 gl1100I, My first 'Wing, and an expensive lesson!
New2U Bike? Read Me.
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dontwantapickle
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Re: Hoping for the best with a $300 1976 GL1000

#39

Post by dontwantapickle »

:-D
Last edited by dontwantapickle on Sun Jan 14, 2018 1:36 am, edited 1 time in total.
raiddrten
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Re: Hoping for the best with a $300 1976 GL1000

#40

Post by raiddrten »

Well, the water pump was a moot point. There is side to side play, the impeller is plastic and perhaps the OEM one from 1977. There was hope at first, because the impeller only moved just a bit in rotation and no side play. taking out the two bolts got me that far, but i was not satisfied that the impeller was not being contained somewhat by the secondary front cover, which i will call the actual water pump front cover I had to worry that thing off as it has alignment pins and the gasket was pretty stuck to both surfaces. Once it came off there was so much more movement in the thing. There was no sign of water in the oil or oil in the front of the pump. When i drained the oil from the bike , it was not brand new and was the correct color for oil with some miles on it.

i put some Deep Creep on and will apply it every day for on the screw heads on the front transmission case The frame will not allow me to get at the screw 100% square, so I will use a battery powered impact screw gun of limited power to prevent stripping the screw heads.
The screws that I can get to square are close as in one came out, but I would rather apply a bit of Deep Creep to every machine screw every day for a week before trying again. i also have a little Harbor Freight steam cleaner that helps on screw extraction in these situations.

Meanwhile, i can order some parts so no time lost and plenty to do while waiting. You guys are saving me a great deal of time and effort in that there is a lot of diagnosis available to know when it is appropriate to replace parts instead of just hanging new parts all over the bike. I thank you for that
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Re: Hoping for the best with a $300 1976 GL1000

#41

Post by raiddrten »

What a relief! All of the screws came out after two days but one. As you might imagine it was the screw that was in the recessed hole. This product is the one to use if you have the time to let it work

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/free ... bilityTab_

i also used Deep Creep and certainly would have used BG in -Force if I had any left. anyway, the stuff had to crawl its way down a long machine screw to get to the engine case and even though the battery powered impact driver was resting against the cross member and at an angle, it came out easily this morning after refusing to budge for three days. I was able to put a shock load on the other screws but did not have the proper punch for this one

There was no oil in the water or water in the oil, but i am almost positive that both had leaked out of the weep hole. The water pump has plastic impeller, so the [probably original] one went 98000 miles The bike is probably down as far as it needs to be. Time to start buying parts for re-assembly. The big advantage I see here is that I will know what has been done to the machine and know the amount of wear it has in areas like the shaft drive.
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Re: Hoping for the best with a $300 1976 GL1000

#42

Post by rcmatt007 »

I have used a socket extension on an impact driver for those difficult to reach screws. I replaced the originals with SS hex head machine screws and used anti-seize
-Rodger-
all it takes for evil to prosper is the want of a few good men to do nothing-Edmund Burke
The question is not how much time do you have, it is what you do with the time that you have Gandalf
"One of the greatest dignities of humankind is that each successive generation is invested in the welfare of each new generation." Fred Rodgers
"it takes 10,000 hours to become an expert" ancient saying
78 constantly modified/customized since 1978, BOTM June 2015 de-evolving this very moment viewtopic.php?f=30&t=65511
76 Ltd "cookies bike" ALMOST DONE
79 project, finished, FOR SALE
'86 1200 (Beth's)(FOR SALE) with motorvation sidecar (sidecar sold) , July 2017 BOTM
'17 HD Road king and 08 HD Heritage softail (Beth's) (FOR SALE). I guess you can say we have MBS
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Re: Hoping for the best with a $300 1976 GL1000

#43

Post by Sundance »

:o raiddrten, it sounds to me like your happier with the one you have than the 1500 brown wing you passed. You are definitely familiar with the garage and I like your beginning steps on the electrics. I will keep that in mind. Very thorough planning on your part. Definitely test your shaft-drive and hub connections/seals/bearing/races/gears within if possible before reassembly. Curiosity is a friend. confused22
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raiddrten
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Re: Hoping for the best with a $300 1976 GL1000

#44

Post by raiddrten »

I got some parts ordered and delivered using vendors suggested on this forum. with both valve covers leaking oil, I got enough grommets for both side covers and also valve cover gaskets. I decided to use the rebuild kit for the water pump, but since it comes from Germany, it may be a bit of a wait, so basically I will be waiting on the kit before i can button up the front end.

Meanwhile, i started on the mufflers and found out that the metal is sound and even still has paint or traces of paint on about 50% of the horseshoe The rest of ot has either very light to moderate pitting. the only real problem is about 2" missing off the entry pipe on one side. I also noticed that the mounting flange bolt had some road rash with just a bit of rash [fine scratches on the bottom of the horseshoe]. I am planning to take the unit to a muffler shop to see if he can add a small extension to the entry point.
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raiddrten
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Re: Hoping for the best with a $300 1976 GL1000

#45

Post by raiddrten »

This tool and perhaps a smaller detail pad is probably as much abrasive that I will use on the muffler body.. Not really interested in taking out every little pit as that would thin the metal. I like to use rust converter in several applications and wipe off the residue with water an a rag so there is not a film of converter left over. it is a balancing act, but I think the painting goes much better.

I just cannot figure out what the scratches are on the bottom of the muffler. It does not seem like the bike could ever tip over in such a manner to cause that pattern. There is no sign of damages to the valve covers .

One fastener for the heat shields did break off, but I got it drilled out by starting with a very small drill bit and walked the hole bigger 1/32 at a time. 100% confident it will tap and be OK
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