PADDYWACKER YOGA

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toolbox
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Re: PADDYWACKER YOGA

#166

Post by toolbox »

robin1731 wrote:
Sundance wrote:snip................. I was hoping to circulate what was in the motor before draining it out and changing the oil and filter to save on cost.
Who knows what might be in there after setting for so long. While many will say to do what you are talking about to get the oil warm and drain easier, I have a hard time doing that. I'll drain it. Put in fresh oil and filter, then start it. Then after that is warm drain it. After long periods of "rest" that may have been outside, in a barn, whatever, you just have no idea what could be in the crankcase. There may not even be any oil in it. I've run across some that had very little oil. Better to be sure than sorry later. Oil is cheaper than possible engine damage.

.
I'm the same way...I've resurrected a lot of corpses over the years, and anymore now the first thing I'll do is drain whatever is in the crankcase out, new filter/oil, and usually run some seafoam in it. After it's running, get it good and hot and then change it again. The seafoam does a pretty good job of washing out old sludge and goop, so you're starting kind of fresh. Around here, Rotella can usually be found on sale at one of the auto parts stores, to help keep the cost down so it's always a good idea to shop/call around and see who's cheapest.
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Re: PADDYWACKER YOGA

#167

Post by desertrefugee »

Sundance wrote:...don't like dipping too frequently into the kitty, when that is at all possible.
While I can sure understand that sentiment, getting a project back to "roadworthiness" is not without a fair expense outlay. Budget should be allocated. Most folks here agree that, at minimum, a coupla grand should be anticipated in total.
- Life is not about waiting for the storms to pass. It's about learning to ride in the rain.
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Re: PADDYWACKER YOGA

#168

Post by Sundance »

Liam wrote:They were sold as a kit. This is similar to yours.

file.jpg
:flamer Okay I double-bogeyed. On the first call for checking the oil I should have known the tube was hollow... :IDTS:
And for the next good news...my oil was right on the upper line as it should be and IT IS CLEAN!! anim-cheers1
Sorry for the false-flags on that initial opening...17 holes to go. lolol (I wish I had taken a picture...maybe later).
...Sundance :flamer .
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Re: PADDYWACKER YOGA

#169

Post by Sundance »

toolbox wrote:
robin1731 wrote:
Sundance wrote:snip................. I was hoping to circulate what was in the motor before draining it out and changing the oil and filter to save on cost.
Who knows what might be in there after setting for so long. While many will say to do what you are talking about to get the oil warm and drain easier, I have a hard time doing that. I'll drain it. Put in fresh oil and filter, then start it. Then after that is warm drain it. After long periods of "rest" that may have been outside, in a barn, whatever, you just have no idea what could be in the crankcase. There may not even be any oil in it. I've run across some that had very little oil. Better to be sure than sorry later. Oil is cheaper than possible engine damage.

.
I'm the same way...I've resurrected a lot of corpses over the years, and anymore now the first thing I'll do is drain whatever is in the crankcase out, new filter/oil, and usually run some seafoam in it. After it's running, get it good and hot and then change it again. The seafoam does a pretty good job of washing out old sludge and goop, so you're starting kind of fresh. Around here, Rotella can usually be found on sale at one of the auto parts stores, to help keep the cost down so it's always a good idea to shop/call around and see who's cheapest.
Thanks to both of you here. My oil looks clean, but the big but is, just as you say! I would definitely feel better about a fresh oil and filter change, AS WELL AS a coolant flush from the beginning. This will also help me overcome any trepidation I may have psychologically about wrenching on the bike...I.E. paddywacker yoga> anim-cheers1 .
Therefore...let me re-adjust the planning stages to suit the wiser choices. I will offer a humble apology for missing such a beautiful day yesterday to make BIG progress. Many here in the club could have been up to hole 5. We are still stuck on 2.
Bad weather ahead...so, don't fret yet. The apple is already in the bag, but it is a long path back to the road!! :mrgreen:
Sundance. :flamer
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Re: PADDYWACKER YOGA

#170

Post by Sundance »

desertrefugee wrote:
Sundance wrote:...don't like dipping too frequently into the kitty, when that is at all possible.
While I can sure understand that sentiment, getting a project back to "roadworthiness" is not without a fair expense outlay. Budget should be allocated. Most folks here agree that, at minimum, a coupla grand should be anticipated in total.
Yes, yes, it is allocated. The term 'piecemeal' is a subtle thought that best describes my pace after the initial purchase...The suddenness is still a bit overwhelming. This settling spell into retirement is difficult with the idea of deadlines and commitments that thrived for 45 years...now, if I can just live in a mode of constant ennui that can be filled with the desires in my heart, instead of the bugle call... ah, I can let it be as it should. anim-cheers1
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Re: PADDYWACKER YOGA

#171

Post by Sundance »

:) I had a beautiful afternoon to work on Nessie, yesterday (9th), and with our weather forecast calling for 4 days of clouds and rain, I pulled a few items off to bring inside. I also took pictures of the wiring near the battery box, being that was a removed item. I also noticed the seat brace or bracket was bent so I removed it for possible straightening, and the rear rail, rack, and sissy-bar for future thought. With a little more time spent in hands-on details, by scrubbing off certain areas of easy access, I noticed a couple of missing (?) screws- 1 at the base of the head intake, and the other in an out-of-the-way place under the fuel pump on the gear housing. Pictures shall follow, with a brief reference on my thoughts.... :|
All in all, I am pleased with the overall condition of this motorcycle at 40 years of age. :-D
:flamer Sundance :flamer (Thanks ahead of time for following along on slow progress with utmost patience).
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Re: PADDYWACKER YOGA

#172

Post by desertrefugee »

Good to see you back at it. And trust me, you're far from alone in moving at a deliberate pace. Some projects are measured in years. That's not necessarily a bad thing. It's cheaper than a therapist.
- Life is not about waiting for the storms to pass. It's about learning to ride in the rain.
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Re: PADDYWACKER YOGA

#173

Post by Sundance »

My first area of focus was the battery box. Wanting to salvage the piece and return it sanded, primed, and painted, I had three 10mm screw-bolts to pull out. Then I had to remove the electrical fittings from each side, as their mounts were attached originally to the box. (Sorry for having a zero in the descriptive definition parts reference.) Upon studying the box, I was amazed at it's condition- the rubber mounts for vibration are still whole and not brittle. Still I want to find a product for rejuvenating these rubber mounts. Any suggestions?
Attachments
Looking outward from inside.
Looking outward from inside.
CIMG4696.JPG (280.44 KiB) Viewed 136 times
Frontward side-view.
Frontward side-view.
CIMG4700.JPG (230.61 KiB) Viewed 136 times
Side-view from rear.
Side-view from rear.
CIMG4701.JPG (237.11 KiB) Viewed 136 times
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Re: PADDYWACKER YOGA

#174

Post by Sundance »

Concerning the actual identification for the electrical components (as well as the rest of the pieces) may I refer you all to the site my information is founded upon- http://www.hondapartsnation.com, OEM parts.
(picture-1) After removing the box the condition of the support brace is recognized. This will be re-conditioned before I return the box to it's place.
(picture-2) Condenser- doesn't look too good. There is no price breakdown on this.
(picture-3) Silicone Rectifier Assembly- good condition.
Attachments
Brace for Battery Box.
Brace for Battery Box.
CIMG4685.JPG (245.03 KiB) Viewed 136 times
Condenser.
Condenser.
CIMG4681.JPG (194.97 KiB) Viewed 136 times
Rectifier.
Rectifier.
CIMG4678.JPG (202.25 KiB) Viewed 136 times
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Re: PADDYWACKER YOGA

#175

Post by Sundance »

The next few pictures will show the main fuse block- in awful condition (wiring), and the magnetic starter assembly, which appears to be in good shape, in spite of bad wiring. The cover is missing, which I expect is a rubber boot similar to the suspension that is located on the battery box (seen above at #173). All these electrical connections which are with the rectifier as well (3rd) will remain circumspect until a thorough 'once-over' cleaning and inspection of bullet connectors, crimp-ons, and splice-ins.
Attachments
One wire connected. One not...?
One wire connected. One not...?
CIMG4688.JPG (200.88 KiB) Viewed 135 times
Black cover...? Expecting full terminal cover.
Black cover...? Expecting full terminal cover.
CIMG4676.JPG (198.06 KiB) Viewed 135 times
These need inspection.
These need inspection.
CIMG4679.JPG (202.03 KiB) Viewed 135 times
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Re: PADDYWACKER YOGA

#176

Post by Sundance »

desertrefugee wrote:Good to see you back at it. And trust me, you're far from alone in moving at a deliberate pace. Some projects are measured in years. That's not necessarily a bad thing. It's cheaper than a therapist.
Haha, yeah YOGA- I actually had the audacity to look up paddywhack in the on-line dictionary. Hmm, give the dog a bone, and let it gnaw! Thanks for stopping in. I saw you had a 5-page build you added to. I will be visiting there very soon. action1
....Sundance. :flamer
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"Imagination is a prerequisite for knowledge.
The artifact is needed to comprehend." :arrow: Sundance. :flamer :flamer
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Re: PADDYWACKER YOGA

#177

Post by Sundance »

At last, off came the padded sissy-bar and rack extension, and I pulled off the grab bar to clean it up. The bar will return to the bike. And the seat mount that was bent out of shape. I could find no evidence the tank was ever removed, so the misshapen support brace was possibly a result of herculean rage...?
By the way, the cat is praying to the Sphynx God of Egypt!
Attachments
Sissy bar and grab rail.
Sissy bar and grab rail.
CIMG4694.JPG (288.29 KiB) Viewed 134 times
Without....
Without....
CIMG4690.JPG (293.68 KiB) Viewed 134 times
Seat support.
Seat support.
CIMG4695.JPG (316.08 KiB) Viewed 134 times
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Re: PADDYWACKER YOGA

#178

Post by desertrefugee »

Fair warning: Post 175 shows two angles of a fuse block that's been bypassed (as in there's no main fuse for the bike). That's something that should be on your short list before applying juice.

I have a soft spot for the 78/79's and will help as much as I can - but there are some real gurus around here waiting in the wings.
- Life is not about waiting for the storms to pass. It's about learning to ride in the rain.
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Re: PADDYWACKER YOGA

#179

Post by Track T 2411 »

desertrefugee wrote:Fair warning: Post 175 shows two angles of a fuse block that's been bypassed (as in there's no main fuse for the bike). That's something that should be on your short list before applying juice.

I have a soft spot for the 78/79's and will help as much as I can - but there are some real gurus around here waiting in the wings.
+1 on the bypassed main fuse. It's the small black rectangular box with two heavy red wires on one terminal in that pic. Most people get rid of the old block and wire in a modern 30 amp blade type fuse holder. I believe there's a good how-to in ShopTalk...
As far as the rubber bits go, I've seen mink oil recommended, or products like Armorall, etc. I use the Armorall 'satin' as it's not as shiny (or slippery) as the regular stuff.
"I have no special talent. I am only passionately curious." - Albert Einstein

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'Layla' - '81 Standard w/dealer installed fairing and Hondaline bags.
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'Quikie' '81 gl1100I back on the lift, project with the step-son!

In The Shed:
'81 gl1100I barn find aka "Josie, the farmer's daughter." (almost comatose build)
'77 gl1000, roller parts bike.
'82 gl1100I, 'Old Crusty' titled roller parts bike (free!)
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Re: PADDYWACKER YOGA

#180

Post by raiddrten »

Track T 2411 wrote:
desertrefugee wrote:Fair warning: Post 175 shows two angles of a fuse block that's been bypassed (as in there's no main fuse for the bike). That's something that should be on your short list before applying juice.

I have a soft spot for the 78/79's and will help as much as I can - but there are some real gurus around here waiting in the wings.
+1 on the bypassed main fuse. It's the small black rectangular box with two heavy red wires on one terminal in that pic. Most people get rid of the old block and wire in a modern 30 amp blade type fuse holder. I believe there's a good how-to in ShopTalk...
As far as the rubber bits go, I've seen mink oil recommended, or products like Armorall, etc. I use the Armorall 'satin' as it's not as shiny (or slippery) as the regular stuff.
Yep.. and also when you first start evaluating the wiring use a 5 amp fuse to check for shorts. If the fuse makes a "crack' sound, you keep checking for the source of a dead short. Then if the fuse just melts , it is not a short but just carrying too much load. Going slow with little fuses and gradually increasing amps can save you magic smoke. DAMHIK.
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