'75 Progress

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Dr. Frankenstein
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'75 Progress

#1

Post by Dr. Frankenstein »

While I'm waiting for my carb kit to come in, I decided to 'start the project' and prep some stuff. One of the twitchy things I wanted to address is my crappy carbs...
ImageDSCN1480 by Dr. Frankenstein1, on Flickr

Here's the set-up:
ImageDSCN1499 by Dr. Frankenstein1, on Flickr

So after jotting out a course of action, I decided to soak them - well, that one at least - in that Gunk Carb Cleaner stuff. I figured it couldn't hurt. I put the bowl seen above in, and about 4 hours later I ended up with this:
ImageDSCN1500 by Dr. Frankenstein1, on Flickr

That same carb set-up looked like this now:
ImageDSCN1502 by Dr. Frankenstein1, on Flickr

Yup, same bowl, same carb! I was lovin' it. But the big problem was those shellacked-in float pins. The Gunk-soak got the float to move stiffly up and down, where previously it was frozen solid, so I decided to try to tap it out, and finally wound up using a small-diameter, orange-handled pick from Harbor Freight; maybe you know what I'm talking about...anyway, the shaft of that pick finally got too big for the hole of the float arm, and I was so afraid I was going to break the float-pin mount so I had to come up with another solution to find something that was Hard enough, yet skinny enough to get into that hole, and finally landed on this:
ImageDSCN1501 by Dr. Frankenstein1, on Flickr

One of those tiny screwdrivers for watches and really small screws and such. You can get them at the dollar store, and they even come with a nice wide head to make for easy tapping! I used the tiny Philips-head one, and it made the tapping-out SO much easier! Anyway - thought I'd share that nifty tool tip.

While I was in there I decided to go ahead and see about the water pump; I got the hoses off, but was then confronted by this - the Honda shop manual I have says to just unbolt the cover and take it off, but some Hero before me had decided to paint the engine case (!), effectively sealing the cover to the case! In this pic the bolts are still on, obviously, but I did remove them before I tried to take off the cover:
ImageDSCN1495 by Dr. Frankenstein1, on Flickr

I tapped it lightly at first, then more heavily with a rubber mallet; I tried heating it up and then tapping it, I tried gently hitting it with the shaft of a rubber-handled hammer, gently prying it with a screwdriver, and even tried to get into the gasket by tapping in a razor blade to try and loosen it but I didn't like that, I'm afraid I'll screw up the mating surfaces...any idea on how to pry that thing off of there?
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5speed
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Re: '75 Progress

#2

Post by 5speed »

I'd try tapping a metal blade putty knife in between the housing and engine case. The blade won't be much thicker then the gasket so it shouldn't mare the mating surface and if it does some gentle sanding should fix it.
1982 1100 standard. (sold)
1986 Yamaha FJ1200
2000 Yamaha Roadstar
1976 GoldWing. running but not on the road
1978 Goldwing. future cafe project.
2019 Can-Am ryker (boss's new ride)

2002 Shadow American Classic(sold)
1983 Shadow 500. (sold)
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Dr. Frankenstein
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Re: '75 Progress

#3

Post by Dr. Frankenstein »

Yes, I tried that too - started with the razor blade, then moved on to a really thin paint scraper. I saw a really thin, bright shiny band of metal forming under the blade, in the notch between the housing and case after I got in there about a quarter of an inch, and stopped because of the whole screw-up-the surface thing. I might try it again, but I don't know...I'd hate to really screw up the surface.
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Track T 2411
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Re: '75 Progress

#4

Post by Track T 2411 »

Actually, that's as far as you need to go to check the condition of the water pump. You can check it for side to side (should be none) and rotational play (very little). Off you need to replace the pump, you'll have a better opportunity to remove the cover with the transmission cover off...
"I have no special talent. I am only passionately curious." - Albert Einstein

"He that is good with a hammer tends to think everything is a nail" - Abraham Maslow

"If you can't take the time to do it right the first time, how are you ever going to find the time to do it over?" -Unknown

Current Rides:
'Grumpy' - '81 Standard, now fully dressed.
'Layla' - '81 Standard w/dealer installed fairing and Hondaline bags.
'Scarlett' '76 'Survivor' nekkid as a j-bird!

Under Construction:
The 'Jalopy' '78-'79 Mash-up
'Quikie' '81 gl1100I back on the lift, project with the step-son!

In The Shed:
'81 gl1100I barn find aka "Josie, the farmer's daughter." (almost comatose build)
'77 gl1000, roller parts bike.
'82 gl1100I, 'Old Crusty' titled roller parts bike (free!)
'82 gl1100I, My first 'Wing, and an expensive lesson!
New2U Bike? Read Me.
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Dr. Frankenstein
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Re: '75 Progress

#5

Post by Dr. Frankenstein »

Yes, I believe you're right; I just finished reading the Engine Renewal Process in Shoptalk, and my water pump (according to the post) is tight/good. Which is fine by me! :) I'll probably replace the O-ring, though. Couldn't hurt.

The thermostat seems fine, too, but they're cheap so I'll pick up a new one.


But Man..! I can't believe the PO spray-painted the ENTIRE engine flat silver! It's not so much that he painted it - but the Overspray is ridiculous. I had to take some acetone to the oil level window just to see into it, plus he got it all over the frame, and the final drive, the carbs and the manifold covers...the RIMS too! And just One of the front brake calipers!

So of course after all the years it sat somewhere - the last time it was inspected was 1998 - it gets all flaky, and just looks like crap; except for the valve covers, where it looks like heat from the engine baked it on... There's not a lot I can do with the case itself, but I sense a lot of elbow-chrome in my future.
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robin1731
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Re: '75 Progress

#6

Post by robin1731 »

Honestly I'd pull the trans cover and change the water pump. I've had an original pump that had zero play. Once it was all put back together it leaked out of the weep hole. Had to drain new coolant and oil and change the pump. May as well just do it now.

.
1976 Goldwing Super Sport
1985 Honda Elite
1976 KZ900 Dragbike
1992 ZX7 Dragbike (KZ900 style motor w/NOS)
and a rotation of various purchases
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Track T 2411
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Re: '75 Progress

#7

Post by Track T 2411 »

robin1731 wrote:Honestly I'd pull the trans cover and change the water pump. I've had an original pump that had zero play. Once it was all put back together it leaked out of the weep hole. Had to drain new coolant and oil and change the pump. May as well just do it now.

.
I won't argue with this advice... every one of my bikes has either had the water pump replaced before I bought it, or has been replaced by me. While I understand the 'don't fix it if it ain't broke' philosophy, I also want my bikes to be as dependable as possible. I guess it's just one of those now or later things, in my humble opinion...
I'll add that sitting for an extended period of time (years) is probably harder on the pump and seals than being ridden daily. Many have reported no problems with the pump for 100k miles or more. My '76 had around 12k miles (and had sat for at least 15 years) when the pump needed replacement...
"I have no special talent. I am only passionately curious." - Albert Einstein

"He that is good with a hammer tends to think everything is a nail" - Abraham Maslow

"If you can't take the time to do it right the first time, how are you ever going to find the time to do it over?" -Unknown

Current Rides:
'Grumpy' - '81 Standard, now fully dressed.
'Layla' - '81 Standard w/dealer installed fairing and Hondaline bags.
'Scarlett' '76 'Survivor' nekkid as a j-bird!

Under Construction:
The 'Jalopy' '78-'79 Mash-up
'Quikie' '81 gl1100I back on the lift, project with the step-son!

In The Shed:
'81 gl1100I barn find aka "Josie, the farmer's daughter." (almost comatose build)
'77 gl1000, roller parts bike.
'82 gl1100I, 'Old Crusty' titled roller parts bike (free!)
'82 gl1100I, My first 'Wing, and an expensive lesson!
New2U Bike? Read Me.
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Fred Camper
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Re: '75 Progress

#8

Post by Fred Camper »

Time is one enemy of water pumps, the other is silicate in the coolant. Best to use Japanese coolant that is low silicate or Dexcool without silicate to make to shaft seal last.
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1977 GL1000 BADDOG (April 2012 BOTM)
1976 LTD - '993 LTD...and so it begins'

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