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ritalz wrote:Route the cables outside the frame and hook them up before bolting down the carbs. Makes things a lot easier.

Do you have a photo of this cable routing?

Regards Steven

Not right away I don't. My 75 is done that way but it is buried in the shed right now. I sold the 82 recently so it won't help. Fairly straight forward change and imho doesn't change the looks very much.

Ok I stripped the carbs due to two cylinders (2+4) not firing despite having compression and Spark. The strip went well, someone had been in there before me and the idle jets O rings and washers were a bit goofy on two cylinders. But otherwise no smoking gun. I sent them in to ultrasonic cleaned at the local shop and one of the bodies had a mishap and is now broken. This bike is close to becoming a parts bike... there was no straw between the two halves which was worrying.

So the shop cleaning broke the body? I know if I broke one the customer would be getting another one from for no cost. Or a repair if possible again at no cost.

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robin1731 wrote:So the shop cleaning broke the body? I know if I broke one the customer would be getting another one from for no cost. Or a repair if possible again at no cost.

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The guy that ones the shop is pretty cool, Steve Milton of Milton Cycles in IA. He will get me a replacement. He tends to go the extra yard.

Happy happy joy joy.... actually it feels like I got kicked in the balls a few times... Got the carbs back today... plus four more from an 82. Slightly different but I think I can make it work... I found a blocked jet and one of the pilot needles were assembled wrong. Just another step on the road to getting on the road...

Managed 65 miles of riding this weekend and it even got me home. I’ve just read some threads on using 1500 coils and because I’m definitely dropping cylinders at low rpm I’m going for it. I had assumed that this was due to marginal compression (115psi) but the 40 year old coils probably aren’t helping... just keep throwing money at it.

Also the 30 amp fuse was hot to the point it was getting soft. I’m assuming this was due to a bad connection so I’ll swap it for a molded in unit. It currently has low quality & rusty crimped 6.3mm flat connectors.

Keep plugging away...

Just got off my rearend and changed the fuse, huge difference to everything electrical. I still have the missing at low rpm though.

If you think that made a difference, you won't believe the difference that changing out the glass fuse box for an automotive set does to the electrics, a whole new world of reliability.

Here’s the latest incarnation of the bodywork... it’s an improvement, I think less is more in this case. I’ll fit them to the bike if it ever runs right...

Looking good. What are the circular pieces?

sparkyrasmus wrote:Looking good. What are the circular pieces?

they are trim pieces for a steel bed I made fifteen years ago... Try and keep the wife happy... try!

That's some awesome paint fella, it's like it's 3 dimensional, well done!

Little update... I have about 250 miles on the ‘old pig’, I’m going to rename it once it starts acting like a civilized machine. I think I have an intermittent air leak as the rpm’s will suddenly go to 3000 for a while then come back down. Also this weeks failures have been the dash that has started screaming above 20mph then stops about 35. I put some new cheap rubber on the wheels and ordered a bunch of 4mm Allen headed bolts to rebuild the faux tank. I have ordered a smaller seat from Vietnam, probably a mistake... and I’m getting ready to make some new exhausts... I just filled up and calculated 34mpg that was 160miles before going onto reserve. I also fixed the rear air pressure light but I’ll put that in a separate post. At least I can ride it now which is helping with the motivation...

This could probably go in a thread all by its self, but as it’s part of the build... see the photos at the end. I have had the low rear suspension air pressure Light on intermittently since I got the bike but it was a low priority. There has always been a loose wire under the RH side cover which I suspected had come off the sensor. The other day while at the scrap yard (my favorite place) I noticed the manifold on an 82 bike so took it off. When I get home I removed the old one to find that the place where the sensor fitted was never machined to accept the sensor, the casting shows a spot for the sensor but it is totally un-machined. I’m not going to loose any sleep over this because it is fixed, but I am curious as to how this happened. ?