I bought a GL-1000.

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914Driver
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Location: Saratoga, NY

I bought a GL-1000.

#1

Post by 914Driver »

Impulse buy, right place at the right time I guess. 19k miles, hasn't seen the road since 1989. Clean Title, no keys.
$800. Lady is also selling her late husband's 1982 Aspencade for $500. (see the For Sale area).

Suggestions and guidance politely accepted.

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Rat
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Re: I bought a GL-1000.

#2

Post by Rat »

Looks like a good deal .... belts first ....

Gord :-D
"I'd rather Ride than Shine"
‘14 KLR650 ... not a rat ... yet
‘84 GL1200i ‘R2B6' (Rat to Be 6, the last, adopted by twowings)
My Original 'RAT' was a hybrid '82 CB900/1100F
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pidjones
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Re: I bought a GL-1000.

#3

Post by pidjones »

Wow. Set up nice. Luggage rack would be my first accessory (If I didn't have one already) and it still has the stock seat and grab bar! The clear windscreen is nice for cooler weather, and not hard to remove for hot months. I seem to remember that someone could cut keys if you have the number from the cylinder (but you have to remove the key switch to get to it - two 10mm bolts). Key switches are also available new at decent prices, but you need the original key to open the shelter and helmet locks. Then, change the belts!
"Love 'em all.... let God sort 'em out!"
Ex 2006 GL1800 - the Black Pearl SOLD! to make room for:
2021 Can-Am Spyder RT Limited Dark Chalk Metallic
1975 Red GL1000 project - ex Pistol Pete project
1972 Triumph T150V Trident rescue - finished and FOR SALE!
1976 Yamaha RD400c
1978 GL1000 with '75 engine - the Hunley
Ex 1978 GL1000
Ex 1979 GL1000
Ex '79 CB750F rat bike
Ex '86 SEi
Ex '77 GL1000
Ex '76 RD400
Ex '72 Penton 125 set up for flat track
Ex '73 RD250
Ex '68 TR6C - chopped
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Track T 2411
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Re: I bought a GL-1000.

#4

Post by Track T 2411 »

^^^What they said!
Having sat for so long, nearly everything's going to need attention. I wouldn't even be in a hurry to 'get it started,' as looking as the engine turns over (by hand, with the spark plugs out).
My typical routine with a new 2 me bike goes something like this:
Check the air filter housing and other nooks and crannies for signs of varmint nests or other debris.
Check the bike's fluid levels and look for signs of leaks, past and present.
Do a quick once-over of the electrical system, especially the three yellow wire stator connector and the main fuse wiring harness on either side of the battery box. One or both may need attention.
Remove the seat, then the fuel level sender unit and check the fuel tank for bad gas and gas residue, as well as rust.
Drain the antifreeze, and remove the lower radiator inlet cover to get to the front of the water pump. Check the water pump for side to side play (should be none) and minimal rotational play (it's been my experience that the water pump seldom survives sitting for extended periods).
Plan on rebuilding the carbs. I highly recommend Randakk's kit or sending them off to an 'approved' rebuilder (I like Robin1731 from here on the site...).
The brakes, tires, and possibly the front forks will need attention as well.

Keep in mind you're undertaking a major project. I've gotten in the habit of writing out a project plan to keep track of the different aspects, usually starting with an overall, general check list, expanding it as I move along.
I take lots of pictures, before, during, and after to record location, orientation, fastener type, wire routing, etc. I make cardboard 'templates' that resemble what part I've removed and push through the fasteners in their respective locations to keep the various sizes and lengths in order. I put smaller parts and fasteners in zip- lock bags and clearly mark them, drawing a picture if needed.
Just a friendly warning... parts just seem to fall right off, and you'll find yourself knee deep very quickly. They always take much longer to put back on, lol!

Don't be afraid to ask questions!

Happy wrenchin'!
"I have no special talent. I am only passionately curious." - Albert Einstein

"He that is good with a hammer tends to think everything is a nail" - Abraham Maslow

"If you can't take the time to do it right the first time, how are you ever going to find the time to do it over?" -Unknown

Current Rides:
'Grumpy' - '81 Standard, now fully dressed.
'Layla' - '81 Standard w/dealer installed fairing and Hondaline bags.
'Scarlett' '76 'Survivor' nekkid as a j-bird!

Under Construction:
The 'Jalopy' '78-'79 Mash-up
'Quikie' '81 gl1100I back on the lift, project with the step-son!

In The Shed:
'81 gl1100I barn find aka "Josie, the farmer's daughter." (almost comatose build)
'77 gl1000, roller parts bike.
'82 gl1100I, 'Old Crusty' titled roller parts bike (free!)
'82 gl1100I, My first 'Wing, and an expensive lesson!
New2U Bike? Read Me.
914Driver
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Joined: Mon Apr 12, 2010 1:38 pm
Location: Saratoga, NY

Re: I bought a GL-1000.

#5

Post by 914Driver »

Thanks guys. I have to sell a boat & trailer to make room the GL, but yesterday I removed the luggage rack, seat and exhaust. PB Blaster has been in the cylinders for a few days, so I also put it in gear and bumped it over, it's free. action1 Woohoo!
The exhaust was super heavy because it was the local mouse Food Bank.

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914Driver
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Posts: 184
Joined: Mon Apr 12, 2010 1:38 pm
Location: Saratoga, NY

Re: I bought a GL-1000.

#6

Post by 914Driver »

Oh, the valve covers are aftermarket chrome things, heavily pitted. I prefer the "Japanese Chrome" of polished aluminum with spray clear but will make that call when I get to that point. I'm in upstate NY, we get winters. I have a coal stove in the basement which is toasty especially once the 3ft. thick foundation heats up. That's when I'll get reacquainted with 0000 steel wool and chrome polish.

Dan
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