NGWClub®, Inc.

I was thinking about the screwdriver, not the screw itself - the thing in the window takes a flathead screwdriver, not a Philips head - (or JIS, in this case).
MadScientist by Dr. Frankenstein1, on Flickr

Straight slot screwdriver. Bob correctly showed a flathead screw. The slot (or socket or cross) used to drive the screw is a separate part of the definition. The wipers, operated by straight slot head (not really a screw in this case) were included after '75 to help you see the oil level. I think the head was designed to be operated by the included toolkit screwdriver, or maybe even a coin. For me, it doesn't help, but something I read really does - a pocket UV flashlight! I found some single AAA cell tiny lights that are great to put in the glove box. The oil shows up green when shined on the window in a darkened area.

you are much more ambitious then I am. I would have walked away after seeing that.

An Update: I got the carbs out today - anybody want some gum??
The rest of the carbs are pretty well glazed shut with old, sticky gas. Nothing a Gunk dip can't handle though.
DSCN1976 by Dr. Frankenstein1, on Flickr

One of these Things Is Not Like the Other...
DSCN1972 by Dr. Frankenstein1, on Flickr

Yeaahhh....
DSCN1971 by Dr. Frankenstein1, on Flickr

The shop manager stopped by to check on my progress...
DSCN1970 by Dr. Frankenstein1, on Flickr

...and there was This little beauty...luckily in only one slight spot, but I haven't made up my mind yet what I'm going to do about it...(I know, I know...).
DSCN1959 by Dr. Frankenstein1, on Flickr


Oh, man, here we go...

Indicates water in the crankcase - for extended time. Water heavier than oil eventually built up to a level that it reached the flywheel. Terminal? Depends on if it pitted the cylinders (I've successfully removed surface rust with single-edge razor blades) and reached the gears. Oil film is tenacious and seems to protect journal bearings for a long time. Gear teeth not so much. I had a '79 that was just spare parts because of water in the crankcase, but have a '75 that runs great that had been submerged 1/2 way.

I didn't notice any water in the oil when I drained it...and the pistons look pretty good; better than my '75 when I did that...(this one's a little blurry, I must've slightly moved when taking it...).
Left Side:
DSCN1978 by Dr. Frankenstein1, on Flickr

Right Side:
DSCN1977 by Dr. Frankenstein1, on Flickr

…and it looks like the PO was running molasses in there! The carbs are currently soaking in parts cleaner...
DSCN1975 by Dr. Frankenstein1, on Flickr


Any idea what this thing is, and where it goes? It fell off of/out of the carb when I was cleaning it (the lighter is for scale...) and I haven't really taken a good look at the carbs yet.
DSCN1979 by Dr. Frankenstein1, on Flickr
DSCN1980 by Dr. Frankenstein1, on Flickr

Woo Hoo. Looks like that one is going to be the one to learn on. Makes it all the more satisfying when you're wheeling around on it later. You can reminisce about all the things you did to get you to where you are.

kind of looks like a valve stem oil seal.

It looks to me like a roller of some kind, made out of bakelight - I just don't know yet where it came from.

All of the valve stem oil seals I've seen have springs around them. It looks familiar but I just can't place it at the moment. I'm pretty sure it isn't a carb part, though.

BTW: If you are having trouble cleaning out the molasses try using methyl hydrate (AKA methanol - sold in the auto parts as gas line anti freeze but it's a lot cheaper in the the paint dept for thinning shellac).

Good to know!

Speaking of cleaning, I'm trying to get the needle jet out of my '78 GL1000 769A carb, and it's stuck in there pretty well with old, gummy gas. I'm heating it up and have had some success with getting things to move again, but which way does it come out...? (That big one right in the middle...).
DSCN1982 by Dr. Frankenstein1, on Flickr

I'm pretty sure it taps out through the carb barrel, but the manual is no help here...
DSCN1984 by Dr. Frankenstein1, on Flickr

And any ideas on how to get that stuck puck out while I'm at it? I may try re-soaking them in carb parts cleaner to loosen them up. They *Should just drop right out, but all the sticky gas is keeping them in there pretty tight...

Speaking of which, here's how I get the little float posts out: with a micro-screwdriver set from the Dollar Store - they fit great and do a good job of tapping them out. Just F-Y-I...(note that 'dissolved' post I found when I opened them up - just on one, luckily... What would do that??).
DSCN1981 by Dr. Frankenstein1, on Flickr

I'd get a couple of 4l jugs of methanol and soak them for a day or 2 to get rid of some of the varnish first.

Acetone will cut the varnish, too. To get the needle jet and its emulsion tube out, use a drift that just fits inside the top hat and tap it LIGHTLY from above. To get the other emulsion tube out, I turned a brass drift that the conical nozzle fits in. A small diameter wood or plastic piece might work, but don't try to turn it. That isn't a screwdriver slot but a pair of standoffs - part of the emulsion tube - to keep the jet spaced properly.

Under the top hat...? You mean the little rubber plug that looks like a top hat?

Okay, to be clear:
"tap it LIGHTLY from above..." do you mean from the bowl side, or the bore side?

The little conical one gets tapped from above through the bore side, where you can see it, and it comes out on the bowl side, yes...?

And the needle jet gets tapped from the bowl side, and comes out on the bore side, yes...?

And any advice for getting those pucks out? Soak them? IIRC, there's a way to blow air through one of the holes that pops the pucks out-carefully, of course...

Before you get much further please read this:
http://wingovations.com/gl1000-main-nozzles/4579471123