1977 gl1000

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Apinkston
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1977 gl1000

#1

Post by Apinkston »

Hello, I just signed up for this forum to get some help with my new project bike. Today I got a 1977 GL1000 with 51,000 miles for $200. Definitely has seen better days. It sat outside for at least 4 years and is in need of some major work. Gas tank looked clean from what I could see, air box is clean, and there was water in the carbs that came out when I removed them. The Kickstarter moved the internals so I thought I was ok there. Peeked inside the cylinders and 1/3 are good, but 2/4 are disgusting. Could be rust, could be old gas, all I know for now is it’s orange goop. Thoughts?
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Whiskerfish
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#2

Post by Whiskerfish »

If it was me I think I would not waste effort on that head. Numerous used in much better shape are available on Flea bay for less than a hundred. If the carbs had water standing in them that could be a major challenge also. Does the throttle turn freely? If the throttle Shafts are seized that requires a significant bigger effort than just a carb rebuild. We have Carb rebuilders here on this site but if they are seized it make their job much harder.
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robin1731
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#3

Post by robin1731 »

I will add, if one looks that bad might as well remove them both. I have good rebuildable heads if you're interested. I might still have some that are already rebuilt and ready to bolt on.

I did cringe when I saw all the leaves on top of the engine. A good idea to blow all that off before starting on a job. Especially something like removing the carbs. It just helps keep garbage out of the engine. ;)

Oh yeah, be sure you get new timing belts too.
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dontwantapickle
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#4

Post by dontwantapickle »

That does not look good.
Apinkston
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#5

Post by Apinkston »

So I peeked inside the cylinders and 2/4 look clean inside, still have some oil in there. 1/3 are a little bit dirtier, but not bad. Valves on both sides look good and the oil up in the valves was pure black, but nothing shiny and no debris. The goop on the intakes is likely old gas since it’s wiping away fairly easy, but I want to remove those heads to make sure before I jump on anything.
As for the carbs, on #2 the throttle was stuck tight but I was able to get it loose. It was stuck pretty tight so I’m assuming that’s what was freezing the whole linkage. I haven’t even gotten to 1 and 3 carbs, but it’s not looking good since 4 has a broken vacuum piston. I’ve only ever worked on a 78/79 cb400 so I’m taking my time and working slow to learn this engine.
I may be interested in those heads either rebuilt or not so please don’t sell them right away
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pidjones
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#6

Post by pidjones »

As long as there isn't water in the crankcase (I don't mess with rusty gears), it is just work. I sat on my butt with single edge razor blades clamped in hemostats for a couple weeks shaving #1&3 cylinder wall rust on my Hunley. That side has the best compression now!
"Love 'em all.... let God sort 'em out!"
Ex 2006 GL1800 - the Black Pearl SOLD! to make room for:
2021 Can-Am Spyder RT Limited Dark Chalk Metallic
1975 Red GL1000 project - ex Pistol Pete project
1972 Triumph T150V Trident rescue - finished and FOR SALE!
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1978 GL1000 with '75 engine - the Hunley
Ex 1978 GL1000
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Apinkston
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#7

Post by Apinkston »

I don’t believe there’s any water in the case since the cylinders themselves are rust free and the oil in the top end is clean. Right now the Kickstarter will move but it has a lot of resistance and I don’t hear anything move so something is up there. Any ideas on where to start for that?
Apinkston
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#8

Post by Apinkston »

Any tips to remove the driveshaft from the engine? Getting a pair of snap ring pliers today but the U joint is pretty rusty and may not want to come off so easily
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pidjones
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#9

Post by pidjones »

I must hold my mouth right. Never had trouble getting it off. Tie back the boot somehow (without damaging it) and get plenty of light. Then take your time. If really rusted/seized in, you might do well to tap it around a bit with a screwdriver to loosen it.
"Love 'em all.... let God sort 'em out!"
Ex 2006 GL1800 - the Black Pearl SOLD! to make room for:
2021 Can-Am Spyder RT Limited Dark Chalk Metallic
1975 Red GL1000 project - ex Pistol Pete project
1972 Triumph T150V Trident rescue - finished and FOR SALE!
1976 Yamaha RD400c
1978 GL1000 with '75 engine - the Hunley
Ex 1978 GL1000
Ex 1979 GL1000
Ex '79 CB750F rat bike
Ex '86 SEi
Ex '77 GL1000
Ex '76 RD400
Ex '72 Penton 125 set up for flat track
Ex '73 RD250
Ex '68 TR6C - chopped
Apinkston
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#10

Post by Apinkston »

Any ideas for a stuck sub frame tube? Mine seems to be stuck at the foot peg which doesn’t want to come out
Update: nevermind. I got that peg loose and after more struggle I noticed I skipped the oil filter housing. Got that off and got the engine out. I now have to move my garage around to properly work on the heads. Speaking of heads, how much are you selling them for? It’d be nice to have fresh heads over these ones
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flyin900
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#11

Post by flyin900 »

Send Robin a PM as people don’t always monitor the threads closely. Once you get the heads off you can better determine the turn over of the engine. It maybe worthwhile to also pull the rear case to access the clutch for an assessment too.
With the engine out now is the time to give all the key items a once over, as when it is back in the frame is not when you want to discover a missed issue.
Current Bikes:

1966 CL77 - Honda 305cc - Dual purpose - "Gentleman's Scrambler" was a period moniker.
1967 CL175K0 - Low production number with #802 engine serial- winter 2019/2020 full restoration.
1972 CB350F - Baby Four with low mileage - Cosmetic refresh to the next level 2021/2022.
1978 CB550K - Very original bike with only 7499 Km. from new - light cleanup and refresh done.
1983 CB1100F - Canadian model - DOHC Supersport in pristine low kilometre condition from new.
1984 GL1200 - Standard model in showroom condition - two owner bike from new.
1984 CX650E - Restored summer 2017 - a rare Eurosport model - excellent one owner bike.
Apinkston
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#12

Post by Apinkston »

I was able to get the engine up onto my table thanks to sketchy redneck engineering and got the covers for the belts removed. Seeing lots of red, orange, and white and it’s not looking pretty, but I got my spanner on each wheel and I was able to turn them smoothly but with lots of resistance. Cylinders 2 and 4 made noise, but have not tried turning them more than 1/4 turn. Engine had roughly 4 quarts of oil in it when I drained it, so I’m guessing this is a dry case for the belts.
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flyin900
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#13

Post by flyin900 »

That looks like it is going to need a some TLC and possibly a rebuild of those belt tensioners. The one is pretty rusty looking there. A good solution for rusted parts is either Metal Rescue or Evaporust which are excellent non toxic rust removers. They clean up rusted parts very well and I highly recommend them. Get the 3.8 liter jug if you can it is better value IMO.
It maybe worth while to take that down to a short block by removing all the front and rear covers and heads to see where your at with that motor.
I would start with the heads to see what the bores look like overall.
Current Bikes:

1966 CL77 - Honda 305cc - Dual purpose - "Gentleman's Scrambler" was a period moniker.
1967 CL175K0 - Low production number with #802 engine serial- winter 2019/2020 full restoration.
1972 CB350F - Baby Four with low mileage - Cosmetic refresh to the next level 2021/2022.
1978 CB550K - Very original bike with only 7499 Km. from new - light cleanup and refresh done.
1983 CB1100F - Canadian model - DOHC Supersport in pristine low kilometre condition from new.
1984 GL1200 - Standard model in showroom condition - two owner bike from new.
1984 CX650E - Restored summer 2017 - a rare Eurosport model - excellent one owner bike.
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Jonesz
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#14

Post by Jonesz »

Just a thought. Post your location so we know what help might be available. That engine looks very rough and it is just my opinion but you might be far better off to look for a running engine without all the water damage etc. There are folks who have spare engines and it would be nice to get one but without knowing where you are it is hard to figure shipping etc.
Jonesz

1983 GL1100 Aspencade named "Freki" currently undergoing change to a standard. Sold
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Apinkston
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#15

Post by Apinkston »

I’m in Sacramento, but I’ll start with the heads tonight and if I have time I’ll remove the starter and clutch to check those. Is there a way I can activate the starter by hooking it up to a battery to see if it even works?
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