1977 gl1000

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dontwantapickle
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#16

Post by dontwantapickle »

Of course you can just hook a battery up to the the starter,
But....
with all of that rust, you really don't want to be spinning that engine over any more and risk doing damage.

Pull the heads and clean as much crap out of the cylinders as possible, then oil everything good
before attempting to turn it over.
Your rings will thank you.
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flyin900
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#17

Post by flyin900 »

Once you remove the starter you can spin it up with a battery connected to the + post and a negative to the case. A set of booster cables work well. Have the starter either in a vice or a foot hold on it, as it will take off if left to it own devices. :guitar
I also second the looking for a running motor, as that one is rough looking for sure. Yet your into it this far and it is worth pulling the heads and the front and rear cases if the bores look decent and warrant further investigation. Those motors also suffer from starter clutch issues from where the starter clutch is located further up on the alternator rotor. So that will need to be checked at some point too. First things first and pull the heads.

These are not a Honda twin motor, so there is much more to investigate on one of these, yet once sorted out they are quite reliable and worth the effort.
Current Bikes:

1966 CL77 - Honda 305cc - Dual purpose - "Gentleman's Scrambler" was a period moniker.
1967 CL175K0 - Low production number with #802 engine serial- winter 2019/2020 full restoration.
1972 CB350F - Baby Four with low mileage - Cosmetic refresh to the next level 2021/2022.
1978 CB550K - Very original bike with only 7499 Km. from new - light cleanup and refresh done.
1983 CB1100F - Canadian model - DOHC Supersport in pristine low kilometre condition from new.
1984 GL1200 - Standard model in showroom condition - two owner bike from new.
1984 CX650E - Restored summer 2017 - a rare Eurosport model - excellent one owner bike.
Apinkston
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#18

Post by Apinkston »

I’ll look around for another motor but I don’t want to drop the few hundred bucks on that if I don’t need to. I intend to pull the starter, clutch, alternator, starter clutch, fuel pump, water pump, and anything else outside the engine itself that might get in the way of starting the engine if broken. I also heard the trans shaft can’t take heavy clutch in low gears and was wondering if there was a newer model that doesn’t have that issue that I can swap the trans shaft into
Apinkston
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#19

Post by Apinkston »

I’m currently trying to pull the camshaft pulleys, and the fsm doesn’t say anything about after the center bolt is removed yet my left side wheel won’t come loose
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ericheath
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#20

Post by ericheath »

The proper way is with a puller, they’re usually stuck on the cam.

The not proper way, yeah that’s me, not proper, is to put the cam pulley bolt back in, place a 10-12mm wrench so its midpoint is on the bolt’s face, then use two vise grips on each end of the wrench so it holds the wrench in place and the jaws of the visecgrips are grabbing the pulley through the holes or spokes if you have the spoked type. It’s easy to mar up the pulley, but you want them as close to the wrench as possible but clamped onto the cam gear between the holes in the cam gear so that when you now back the pulley bolt out, it pushes the wrench, which pushes the the vise grips, which pulls the pulley outward. It may take two tries. (Removing the washer will gain more distance )

Now read that again five times, then take a stab or get a gear puller.

You may be tempted to pry, or try to pry, them off, but you’ll likely just bend the backplate or worse, bend the pulley itself. They do bend quite easily.
Whatever I suggest here should be given ample time for a moderator to delicately correct. I apologize in advance.
77 WING, 1200 engine with 77 heads, cams, gl1100 foot pegs, Magna V65 front end, 764A carbs, [-gone Suzuki M109 monoshock--, replaced with gl1100 shocks] gl 1200 swing arm, gl1500 final drive, wheel and rear brakes Valkyrie seat, Meanstreak tank, Sportster pipes, Power Arc ignition off crank.
77 Wing. black
83 Wing, in pieces
"Continuing education is important even if the subject matter is fairly useless (as in this case)."---Greg Foresi
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flyin900
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#21

Post by flyin900 »

Your going to find lots of items stuck on that motor, as it clearly sat in an outside condition and judging by the intakes condition on the heads it isn't pretty. There is a keyway that locates the pulley as you may have seen and probably the pulley is frozen with rust.
PB Blaster and heat from a propane torch will be necessary on many areas of that motor I would suspect. The screws are JIS on that front cover and definitely use a correct JIS driver bit and heat, or you will be drilling those out.

+1 on the gear pulley for those too, as they will not just pop off usually in the best cases inside there.
Current Bikes:

1966 CL77 - Honda 305cc - Dual purpose - "Gentleman's Scrambler" was a period moniker.
1967 CL175K0 - Low production number with #802 engine serial- winter 2019/2020 full restoration.
1972 CB350F - Baby Four with low mileage - Cosmetic refresh to the next level 2021/2022.
1978 CB550K - Very original bike with only 7499 Km. from new - light cleanup and refresh done.
1983 CB1100F - Canadian model - DOHC Supersport in pristine low kilometre condition from new.
1984 GL1200 - Standard model in showroom condition - two owner bike from new.
1984 CX650E - Restored summer 2017 - a rare Eurosport model - excellent one owner bike.
Apinkston
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Location: Sacramento CA

Re: 1977 gl1000

#22

Post by Apinkston »

I’ll just go get a gear pulley for this. Might as well have the tool, I just wanted to make sure there wasn’t a step the fsm left out. I’m also having trouble getting the bolt for the right wheel off. I end up lifting the motor with my spanner and my wrench trying to get the bolt loose.
Turns out the gear puller autozone offered wouldn’t have worked but a jaw puller worked with no effort. Got the wheel off and the cams off. There’s a few marks on the cam shaft but they don’t seem like it’s bad. You tell me
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flyin900
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#23

Post by flyin900 »

They don’t look great to me, as there is definitely wear it appears on the top lobe and side lobe. There is a spec for the lobes to measure against in the FSM. I would also check the cam bearing surfaces for damage and wear too.
Current Bikes:

1966 CL77 - Honda 305cc - Dual purpose - "Gentleman's Scrambler" was a period moniker.
1967 CL175K0 - Low production number with #802 engine serial- winter 2019/2020 full restoration.
1972 CB350F - Baby Four with low mileage - Cosmetic refresh to the next level 2021/2022.
1978 CB550K - Very original bike with only 7499 Km. from new - light cleanup and refresh done.
1983 CB1100F - Canadian model - DOHC Supersport in pristine low kilometre condition from new.
1984 GL1200 - Standard model in showroom condition - two owner bike from new.
1984 CX650E - Restored summer 2017 - a rare Eurosport model - excellent one owner bike.
Apinkston
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Posts: 163
Joined: Sat Nov 13, 2021 11:35 pm
Location: Sacramento CA

Re: 1977 gl1000

#24

Post by Apinkston »

I’ll check those service limits tomorrow. Finally got the heads off. 1/3 came off pretty easily. 2/4 not so much, but they’re off. Right now I can only see inside 4 and 3 but they look clean. There is some color in 3 but that’s a brass or copper color not rust. The heads don’t look too good though at least in my opinion. You can see right through to the internals, and the one gear that’s visible looks clean, and inside the timing cover on top looks clean. Pics are 2/4 first then 1/4
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pidjones
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#25

Post by pidjones »

1/3 exhaust don't look so good. Luckily, new valves are available at reasonable prices. I lucked out and had my valve seats reground very inexpensively. Just remember that the sealing surfaces on the valves are faced with an anti-wear that you don't want to take off. Not grinding valves, and lapping seats after grinding should be done very lightly (mine didn't need any).
"Love 'em all.... let God sort 'em out!"
Ex 2006 GL1800 - the Black Pearl SOLD! to make room for:
2021 Can-Am Spyder RT Limited Dark Chalk Metallic
1975 Red GL1000 project - ex Pistol Pete project
1972 Triumph T150V Trident rescue - finished and FOR SALE!
1976 Yamaha RD400c
1978 GL1000 with '75 engine - the Hunley
Ex 1978 GL1000
Ex 1979 GL1000
Ex '79 CB750F rat bike
Ex '86 SEi
Ex '77 GL1000
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Ex '68 TR6C - chopped
Apinkston
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#26

Post by Apinkston »

I’m going to start cleaning the cylinders and the heads tonight, but if I turn the crank without the top ends on, will it cause damage or horrifically mess up the timing? I need to open cylinders 1 and 2 to clean those
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gltriker
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#27

Post by gltriker »

Camshafts' positioning - to - crankshaft position synchronizing timing doesn't come into play until, as the individual cylinder heads are being re-installed onto the engine.

Yes. With both cylinder heads removed, turn the crankshaft. Either direction. No worries.

Utilize this ShopTalk Tutorial when re-installing the cylinder heads.
viewtopic.php?t=3544
Cliff (74yrs ;) )

Keep your eyes and ears open and you'll learn something new, everyday. tumb2

New users please visit our "Shop Talk" for common tips and help: <---jdvorchak
http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/page/ST
^^^^^^^click up here^^^^^ :oldies

RE: a thorough fuel tank cleaning
"And your carbs will thank you. They no longer live down stream from a sewage plant." -gregforesi tumb2
"Can't see the paint when your looking thru the handlebars..........." -Oldewing ;)
"I'd rather Ride than Shine" -RAT tumb2 Me Too!!

Cliff

'75 GL1000 home built trike; http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=39996
October,2017 BOTM :shock: https://nakedgoldwingsclub.com/forum/page/Welcome

previous rides:
1953 H-D Servi-car, naked, 1969-1978 (serial#53G1559 committed to memory!)
1980 CB900 Custom (triked) 1997-2003 .... R.I.P.
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flyin900
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#28

Post by flyin900 »

Your on your way with the heads off.
Those small metal oil orfice restrictor feeds need to be saved for the head reassembly. They have an O ring or two around their body. I can see one in your third pic of the motor with the starter motor visible. It is stuck in the block just where the head bolt hole is and is just above it. Make sure you have both still (one on each side) as these are restrictors that feed the cam journals that supply oil the the cams.
Current Bikes:

1966 CL77 - Honda 305cc - Dual purpose - "Gentleman's Scrambler" was a period moniker.
1967 CL175K0 - Low production number with #802 engine serial- winter 2019/2020 full restoration.
1972 CB350F - Baby Four with low mileage - Cosmetic refresh to the next level 2021/2022.
1978 CB550K - Very original bike with only 7499 Km. from new - light cleanup and refresh done.
1983 CB1100F - Canadian model - DOHC Supersport in pristine low kilometre condition from new.
1984 GL1200 - Standard model in showroom condition - two owner bike from new.
1984 CX650E - Restored summer 2017 - a rare Eurosport model - excellent one owner bike.
Apinkston
Chrome Member
Chrome Member
Posts: 163
Joined: Sat Nov 13, 2021 11:35 pm
Location: Sacramento CA

Re: 1977 gl1000

#29

Post by Apinkston »

Does anybody know a way to get the clutch off without buying the specific tools? I have a lock but socket that I made for my cb400 that works, but my spanner doesn’t work for this. Also, I’m having a hard time getting this rear case off. I can’t find it in the fsm, but do I need to remove the clutch to get the case off?
Apinkston
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#30

Post by Apinkston »

Nevermind. It was just insanely stuck and I had to pry it off. Trying my best here not to pry things off but I know I have to. There was still about a quart of oil in the rear case, and everything looks clean to me. It’s all moving smoothly. Here is the back side, part of the drive line, and the case
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