1977 gl1000

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Apinkston
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#106

Post by Apinkston »

Thanks for that article. I was able to find the whole Dyna S system on eBay for $375 and got it. Points, coils, wires, etc. I couldn’t get it direct through Dynatek because that system is illegal here. I did buy a stock regulator/rectifier that claimed to test good. Only $25 for the pair so I doubt that but it’s not a lot of money wasted and I’ll try for a refund to get the combo
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gltriker
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#107

Post by gltriker »

Apinkston wrote: Sun Dec 19, 2021 3:22 pm Thanks for that article. I was able to find the whole Dyna S system on eBay for $375 and got it. Points, coils, wires, etc. I couldn’t get it direct through Dynatek because that system is illegal here. I did buy a stock regulator/rectifier that claimed to test good. Only $25 for the pair so I doubt that but it’s not a lot of money wasted and I’ll try for a refund to get the combo
Because you live in California?
Cliff (74yrs ;) )

Keep your eyes and ears open and you'll learn something new, everyday. tumb2

New users please visit our "Shop Talk" for common tips and help: <---jdvorchak
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^^^^^^^click up here^^^^^ :oldies

RE: a thorough fuel tank cleaning
"And your carbs will thank you. They no longer live down stream from a sewage plant." -gregforesi tumb2
"Can't see the paint when your looking thru the handlebars..........." -Oldewing ;)
"I'd rather Ride than Shine" -RAT tumb2 Me Too!!

Cliff

'75 GL1000 home built trike; http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=39996
October,2017 BOTM :shock: https://nakedgoldwingsclub.com/forum/page/Welcome

previous rides:
1953 H-D Servi-car, naked, 1969-1978 (serial#53G1559 committed to memory!)
1980 CB900 Custom (triked) 1997-2003 .... R.I.P.
Apinkston
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#108

Post by Apinkston »

Unfortunately yes
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CYBORG
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#109

Post by CYBORG »

ANOTHER reaon I left California :lol: :lol: :lol:
1978 custom GL1000
1977 custom with 1200 engine
1985 gl1200
Apinkston
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#110

Post by Apinkston »

I have a question about my coolant lines. On the right hand side I have a bolt stuck in. Drill extractor isn’t working and I don’t have a welder. If there is another way to get the bolt out I’d like to know, but if I put one bolt on and JB weld or just use gasket maker to fill in the gap would that work well enough? I also have the top two engine mount bolts broken and sitting in there. Same situation with extractors
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Old Fogey
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#111

Post by Old Fogey »

That's got me curious. Why would the Dyna system be illegal in California?
"Impossible Is Just a Level of Difficulty!..."
If I'd wanted you to understand, I would have explained it better! (Johann Cruyff)
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Old Fogey
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#112

Post by Old Fogey »

On the broken bolts:
I feel the water pipe broken one has to come out and be replaced, simply because the coolant system is under pressure. I don't see one bolt and some sealant being a permanent fix. If this is on the cylinder head, maybe taking the head to a machine shop is one answer.
With the broken engine bolts, try heating the alloy before using an extractor. Also I have had some luck in those situations by drilling a hole through the top of the mounting and dripping some releasing oil in. Oil and heat might get it done.
"Impossible Is Just a Level of Difficulty!..."
If I'd wanted you to understand, I would have explained it better! (Johann Cruyff)
I’d give my right arm to be ambidextrous! :-D
Apinkston
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#113

Post by Apinkston »

I’m not sure why the Dyna system is illegal here. Maybe it’s because of the fully adjustable spark timing and increase in spark voltage. But I’ll try drilling in through the top but heat hasn’t worked so far. I have a tap n dye set so I might just try boring out those holes and threading it for one size up
Apinkston
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#114

Post by Apinkston »

It’s been a hot minute and a lot has been done. Engine is back in and I have spark with the new Dyna S system. Right now I’m trying to time the ignition and I’m having a little bit of an issue. Following the instructions I’m trying to time 3/4 points on the F2 mark but my test light only lights up when there’s a weak ground that causes some sparks around the edge of the points plate. I have the test light hooked up to the negative battery terminal that way it’s only lighting up when the connection is good. I can’t find any videos of people tuning their Dyna s on a gl so I’m just wandering if there are any tricks or if y’all have any tips to make this easier
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gltriker
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#115

Post by gltriker »

Apinkston wrote: Wed Jan 12, 2022 2:57 pm It’s been a hot minute and a lot has been done. Engine is back in and I have spark with the new Dyna S system. Right now I’m trying to time the ignition and I’m having a little bit of an issue. Following the instructions I’m trying to time 3/4 points on the F2 mark but my test light only lights up when there’s a weak ground that causes some sparks around the edge of the points plate. I have the test light hooked up to the negative battery terminal that way it’s only lighting up when the connection is good. I can’t find any videos of people tuning their Dyna s on a gl so I’m just wandering if there are any tricks or if y’all have any tips to make this easier
When the 2 clamping screws are loose enough to allow the Dyna S base plate to be rotated in the 'points baseplate' recess to facilitate adjusting the 3/4 module's static timing, that occasionally causes folks to scratch their head.
Tighten the 2 clamping screws securely onto the baseplate and check where the static timing marks are now. If the 3/4 needs further adjusting, be patient, loosen the screws and adjust accordingly. Tighten the screws and recheck the static timing again..

I might offer to run a temporary jumper ground wire from the negative battery post, directly to the surface of the DynaS baseplate will ease some of the adjusting angst you are encountering.

additionally, be aware there may be a hidden restriction in the ground path.

Even if the ground path surface is shiny clean in that 'points case' recess, the ground path from the cylinder head into the 'points case' travels through the 2 screws that attach it to the cylinder head flange. Typically you will find corrosion on those male and female screw threads.
The cylinder head and 'points case' are separated by a gasket. Another point of corrosion accumulation in that area, too.
Cliff (74yrs ;) )

Keep your eyes and ears open and you'll learn something new, everyday. tumb2

New users please visit our "Shop Talk" for common tips and help: <---jdvorchak
http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/page/ST
^^^^^^^click up here^^^^^ :oldies

RE: a thorough fuel tank cleaning
"And your carbs will thank you. They no longer live down stream from a sewage plant." -gregforesi tumb2
"Can't see the paint when your looking thru the handlebars..........." -Oldewing ;)
"I'd rather Ride than Shine" -RAT tumb2 Me Too!!

Cliff

'75 GL1000 home built trike; http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=39996
October,2017 BOTM :shock: https://nakedgoldwingsclub.com/forum/page/Welcome

previous rides:
1953 H-D Servi-car, naked, 1969-1978 (serial#53G1559 committed to memory!)
1980 CB900 Custom (triked) 1997-2003 .... R.I.P.
Apinkston
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#116

Post by Apinkston »

I’ll give that extra wire a shot and try again, but I’m also going to try making my own test light. The one I’m using is really just an led logic probe but I figured it would work the same. If that fails I’ll take apart the points case and clean absolutely everything. Also, I’m not sure if there are supposed to be any but there aren’t any sort of marks in the points case not on the advancer. Not sure if there are but on every other bike I’ve seen marks in there. Hoping to get it firing by the end of the week
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gltriker
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#117

Post by gltriker »

Had you seen this discussion and photos?
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=77056&p=804658#p804658

I am not understanding the question about the advancer and marks. There is 2 very important photos of the advancer assembly and its indexing pin onto the camshaft about 2/3rds way down the first page in this tutorial.
viewtopic.php?t=5614

and this?
viewtopic.php?t=5720
Cliff (74yrs ;) )

Keep your eyes and ears open and you'll learn something new, everyday. tumb2

New users please visit our "Shop Talk" for common tips and help: <---jdvorchak
http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/page/ST
^^^^^^^click up here^^^^^ :oldies

RE: a thorough fuel tank cleaning
"And your carbs will thank you. They no longer live down stream from a sewage plant." -gregforesi tumb2
"Can't see the paint when your looking thru the handlebars..........." -Oldewing ;)
"I'd rather Ride than Shine" -RAT tumb2 Me Too!!

Cliff

'75 GL1000 home built trike; http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=39996
October,2017 BOTM :shock: https://nakedgoldwingsclub.com/forum/page/Welcome

previous rides:
1953 H-D Servi-car, naked, 1969-1978 (serial#53G1559 committed to memory!)
1980 CB900 Custom (triked) 1997-2003 .... R.I.P.
Apinkston
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Posts: 163
Joined: Sat Nov 13, 2021 11:35 pm
Location: Sacramento CA

Re: 1977 gl1000

#118

Post by Apinkston »

I haven’t seen those threads yet. I’ve been looking for those too so thanks a lot for that. As for the marks, every other bike I saw in videos had marks on the points case and on the plate for the advancer. Taking a quick peek at the tutorials I guess gl’s don’t need marks in there and that I’ve been using a totally wrong tool to try timing this bike. Thanks for clearing all that up for me.
Apinkston
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#119

Post by Apinkston »

Got my ignition timed, and I just got my radiator put on. I tested the fan with direct power to battery before putting it on and it worked great. When I plug it into the wiring harness it won’t turn on. All the plugs are connected, and I cleaned them. I saw on the wiring diagram that the wires for it pass through a few of the sensors. Do those sensors need to be working in order for the fan to work?
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Old Fogey
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#120

Post by Old Fogey »

Maybe I'm missing something, but is the engine running? The fan will only run when the operating temperature is too high.
"Impossible Is Just a Level of Difficulty!..."
If I'd wanted you to understand, I would have explained it better! (Johann Cruyff)
I’d give my right arm to be ambidextrous! :-D
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