1977 gl1000

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MikeNTexas
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#46

Post by MikeNTexas »

Apinkston wrote: Sun Nov 21, 2021 9:42 pm How well does the single carb setup work? I’ve been going back and forth on it considering im going to have to spend a hefty amount on the carbs just to get all 4 working
I have some work to do on it. Not perfect right out of the box. Going to take some rejecting. As far as cost goes, since the manifold was a freebie this setup only cost me the price of the carb, about $75, so I had to try it. The only carbs I have are hopelessly froze up and full of water damage. I put a Holly Weber clone progressive 2 bbl on a previous project and was very pleased with it.
1975 GL1000 Restored (sold)
1983 GL1100 Custom (sold)
1976 GL1000 Project (finished and sold)
Another1976 GL1000 Project (finished and sold)
Apinkston
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#47

Post by Apinkston »

Well I’ve only gotten to two carbs and one of my vacuum pistons is completely broken, The floats are shot and I can’t get the pin out even with pb blaster and a hammer, one has what I think is white corrosion on the throttle side going into the intake, and that’s just half of the carbs. I’d end up spending about $200 in kits and replacement parts already and was curious of how well the single carb works. I imagine not as well, but a slight loss in power wouldn’t be the end of the world
MikeNTexas
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#48

Post by MikeNTexas »

Apinkston wrote: Mon Nov 22, 2021 1:10 am Well I’ve only gotten to two carbs and one of my vacuum pistons is completely broken, The floats are shot and I can’t get the pin out even with pb blaster and a hammer, one has what I think is white corrosion on the throttle side going into the intake, and that’s just half of the carbs. I’d end up spending about $200 in kits and replacement parts already and was curious of how well the single carb works. I imagine not as well, but a slight loss in power wouldn’t be the end of the world
Actually I do not believe there is any loss of power with the 34 pict 3 carb. Just suffering from ‘drivability’ right now. It is running poorly up to about 3500 rpm gauge then it wakes up and goes like a bat outta hell. Hopefully with the right jet it will run good throughout the rpm range. I really like the instant starts though And the electric choke works great. I had hopes that it would perform as well as the Holley 5200 I put on the GL1100 I built and sold but it’s not happening, yet. I’m not giving up. Just waiting on some advise from anyone that has used internet his combo. I have feelers out, just trying to find out what jet to try first. May have to just buy a few and experiment.
1975 GL1000 Restored (sold)
1983 GL1100 Custom (sold)
1976 GL1000 Project (finished and sold)
Another1976 GL1000 Project (finished and sold)
Apinkston
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#49

Post by Apinkston »

Finally got around to cleaning the valves and heads, and it’s looking good. I’m working on cylinders 2 and 4 right now but so far I’ve only gotten to the valves on #2. Attached are pics of the exhaust and intake valves which I have marked to not mix them up (I will find a way to if I don’t take measures against it). I haven’t even begun grinding the valves yet, but all that orange goop wiped off very easily and there was no rust under it on the valve. The orange mark on the face of the exhaust valve for #2 is gone with wiping as well. I wanted to ask you guys if I could do an oil bath with the heads to try and get that old gas out of the intakes. Still don’t have a torch and to remove the guides I need to torch it so I figured oil bath was the best way to go about it
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robin1731
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#50

Post by robin1731 »

Why do you want to remove the guides?
1976 Goldwing Super Sport
1985 Honda Elite
1976 KZ900 Dragbike
1992 ZX7 Dragbike (KZ900 style motor w/NOS)
and a rotation of various purchases
Randakk approved Carb Rebuilder
Apinkston
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#51

Post by Apinkston »

If I were to do a rust remover bath I would assume I need to remove the guides because it’ll ruin them. In my head I was thinking either rust remover or oil bath
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robin1731
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#52

Post by robin1731 »

What do you plan on using? The guides are cast iron and pretty stout. If you remove them it would be best to install new ones. And no matter what if you put in new guides, or try to reuse the old ones, you have to have the seats cut. New guides are sized smaller and need to be reamed to fit the stems. Also you then need to cut the seats to center the seat to the new valve. Much better off not removing the guides unless they are worn or they do get destroyed.
1976 Goldwing Super Sport
1985 Honda Elite
1976 KZ900 Dragbike
1992 ZX7 Dragbike (KZ900 style motor w/NOS)
and a rotation of various purchases
Randakk approved Carb Rebuilder
Apinkston
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Location: Sacramento CA

Re: 1977 gl1000

#53

Post by Apinkston »

I wasn’t interested in removing the guides unless I had to. Just got #4 intake off and it’s mostly rust not gas. The idea was to put the whole head in a bath to clean the hard to reach spots, and if I had to remove the guides to avoid whatever solution destroying them then so be it
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flyin900
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#54

Post by flyin900 »

Metal Rescue or Evaporust (same product just different manufacturers) is my go to soaking agent for removing rust. Non toxic and won’t damage anything like seats or guides. It is available in 3.8 litre jugs or a larger pail if needed. It has worked very well on any rusted parts where I have used it.
The valve stems and edges look decent, so I would replace the valve stem seals and just lap the valves and see where your at then.
You can get into the head areas with a wire bottle style brush too to clean up inside there. As long as your not into the valve guide bore, then clean away. When guys port and polish for port work they working in there with much tougher tools than a wire brush.

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Last edited by flyin900 on Tue Nov 23, 2021 7:30 am, edited 2 times in total.
Current Bikes:

1966 CL77 - Honda 305cc - Dual purpose - "Gentleman's Scrambler" was a period moniker.
1967 CL175K0 - Low production number with #802 engine serial- winter 2019/2020 full restoration.
1972 CB350F - Baby Four with low mileage - Cosmetic refresh to the next level 2021/2022.
1978 CB550K - Very original bike with only 7499 Km. from new - light cleanup and refresh done.
1983 CB1100F - Canadian model - DOHC Supersport in pristine low kilometre condition from new.
1984 GL1200 - Standard model in showroom condition - two owner bike from new.
1984 CX650E - Restored summer 2017 - a rare Eurosport model - excellent one owner bike.
Apinkston
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Posts: 163
Joined: Sat Nov 13, 2021 11:35 pm
Location: Sacramento CA

Re: 1977 gl1000

#55

Post by Apinkston »

This may be a bit of a dumb question, but is the seal on the guide? I see a metal ring on top of the guide where the valve stem tapers in
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flyin900
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#56

Post by flyin900 »

Yes the top of seal is on the valve stem and the guide has a grooved area where the bottom of the valve stem seal snaps over. Might be petrified on there and usually end up ripping them off if necessary.
Last edited by flyin900 on Mon Nov 22, 2021 11:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Current Bikes:

1966 CL77 - Honda 305cc - Dual purpose - "Gentleman's Scrambler" was a period moniker.
1967 CL175K0 - Low production number with #802 engine serial- winter 2019/2020 full restoration.
1972 CB350F - Baby Four with low mileage - Cosmetic refresh to the next level 2021/2022.
1978 CB550K - Very original bike with only 7499 Km. from new - light cleanup and refresh done.
1983 CB1100F - Canadian model - DOHC Supersport in pristine low kilometre condition from new.
1984 GL1200 - Standard model in showroom condition - two owner bike from new.
1984 CX650E - Restored summer 2017 - a rare Eurosport model - excellent one owner bike.
User avatar
flyin900
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Posts: 1489
Joined: Sun Jan 10, 2010 3:50 pm
Location: Canada

Re: 1977 gl1000

#57

Post by flyin900 »

Depending on your needs and local parts availability there is a Canadian company called Partsnmore. They have the Viton valve stem seals and replacement valves if needed too.

Even though a Canadian company; I believe they have a US based warehouse too, as they do lots of business south of the border.

https://www.partsnmore.com/parts/honda/ ... ng]=custom

Some good value here and some parts such as the thermostat/belts etc are better buying the crossover parts listed on the site here from US automotive suppliers (Rock Auto) for instance.
Last edited by flyin900 on Tue Nov 23, 2021 8:38 am, edited 6 times in total.
Current Bikes:

1966 CL77 - Honda 305cc - Dual purpose - "Gentleman's Scrambler" was a period moniker.
1967 CL175K0 - Low production number with #802 engine serial- winter 2019/2020 full restoration.
1972 CB350F - Baby Four with low mileage - Cosmetic refresh to the next level 2021/2022.
1978 CB550K - Very original bike with only 7499 Km. from new - light cleanup and refresh done.
1983 CB1100F - Canadian model - DOHC Supersport in pristine low kilometre condition from new.
1984 GL1200 - Standard model in showroom condition - two owner bike from new.
1984 CX650E - Restored summer 2017 - a rare Eurosport model - excellent one owner bike.
Apinkston
Chrome Member
Chrome Member
Posts: 163
Joined: Sat Nov 13, 2021 11:35 pm
Location: Sacramento CA

Re: 1977 gl1000

#58

Post by Apinkston »

The guides look to be in excellent condition. Seals too. #4 intake guide has a little bit of rust but if I get the rust remover in there maybe on a soft pipe cleaner it’ll be fine. Still gotta look at 3 and 1
Apinkston
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Posts: 163
Joined: Sat Nov 13, 2021 11:35 pm
Location: Sacramento CA

Re: 1977 gl1000

#59

Post by Apinkston »

Just finished getting all the valves off and 1/3 exhaust valves look done for. I can try doing some very light sanding on the face then grinding on the sides, but I’m not sure how much it will really help. On the bright side the intake valves look good and just need to be cleaned up. 1/3 valves are first in photos line up from exhaust to intake 1 to 3. Same with 2 and 4
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flyin900
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Re: 1977 gl1000

#60

Post by flyin900 »

Those will clean up with a brass wheel to see if the valve angles are pitted. If not a lapping should tell you where your at with sealing and if you need further work. I wouldn’t reuse the valve stem seals no matter how good they look. Your in there now and new seals are cheap insurance, especially given the boxer design of the engine.
If the valve angles are pitted then replacement is warranted, as the surfaces and tips are Stellite coated and cannot be reground.

I added some links to my posts above if you need new exhaust valves or stem seals or water pump kit etc.
Current Bikes:

1966 CL77 - Honda 305cc - Dual purpose - "Gentleman's Scrambler" was a period moniker.
1967 CL175K0 - Low production number with #802 engine serial- winter 2019/2020 full restoration.
1972 CB350F - Baby Four with low mileage - Cosmetic refresh to the next level 2021/2022.
1978 CB550K - Very original bike with only 7499 Km. from new - light cleanup and refresh done.
1983 CB1100F - Canadian model - DOHC Supersport in pristine low kilometre condition from new.
1984 GL1200 - Standard model in showroom condition - two owner bike from new.
1984 CX650E - Restored summer 2017 - a rare Eurosport model - excellent one owner bike.
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