Second time around: '75 GL1000 Project

[datsunfreak]

Yes, fusible link - replace with an inline 30 amp receiver and fuse from the parts store. Yes, solenoid. Might work, might not.

I'll try that and see if it at least makes the electrons flow more consistently.

On my projects, I just bite the bullet, disassemble the entire bike, strip off the harness, and go over it one connector at a time cleaning and replacing Budget a couple weeks of couple hours a day - clean everything well first so you can see wire true colors). Vintage Connections carries all of the connectors, crimper, etc. There is no quick, easy on them.

In my heart, I know this is what needs to be done, just don't really know if I am the fella to do it...

I am not scared of rewiring a car from scratch, but wiring on bikes is just something I have never tackled. And a lot of this shit makes no sense if you come from car world...

And, it is a MINIMUM of a $500 project (brake parts, carb kits, tires and tubes, etc.) But! A little done each day (say, 15 minutes or so) can surprise you with a safe, reliable, nun-to-ride bike is a year or so.

Sound advice. Thanks.

The tank really needs the rear drive, rear master, shelter, and rear shocks pulled to ease removal.

Yeah, that's the one I am dreading.

Get a sealed battery for it. I use just AGM, but others use gel. Avoid plain vented lead acid as the acid fumes eat things in that area (like the 3 yellow wire connector). NO NEED (nor advised) to go Lithium.

Sage advice (that I will heed), but I feel like I am years away from needing a battery for it.


I am not a quitter, and don't want to give up on it, but yesterday just really took the air out of my balloon on this project. My last GL1000 needed the entire fuel system done and brakes gone through, but the electrics were always just fine. Of course it only spent 3 years in storage, not 24. I am really feeling like I bit off more than I can chew on this one...

I'll stew on it for a few days and see where my head is at next week. I do really love these bikes, and have wanted another one for a long time. But it's extremely daunting when viewed from this end of the timeline.

At this moment, I am mulling over two options. Buy a better one and save this for spares/parts, or buy something wholly different (read: newer and more reliable) that I can ride in the meantime while I wrench on this one.

Option two would be a lot more sensible, methinks. I know with old cars, it is damn helpful to have one you can drive and enjoy while working on your project car. If not, usually part way through you forget why you wanted to do this in the first place.

[Fred Camper]

Just work a circuit at a time and you will be done in no time. My bet is the wiring will not be hard to fix for you. The ignition switch is a pita on these and is often the cause of wiring issues. There is an EMCO ignition switch replacement and if you want to keep your Honda key, the EMCO contact unit can be removed from the EMCO switch and installed onto the Honda ignition once the contact unit on that is removed. Works well that way.

[pidjones]

Be sure to make photos and drawings of each connector with the color code to each pin. That will serve you well.

[datsunfreak]

The ignition switch is a pita on these and is often the cause of wiring issues.

Yeah, I was going to try and remove/clean that one first and see if it helps. After cleaning the fuse box and installing new fuses of course.

I know on old Datsuns, a lot of gremlins are located in the fuse box. Usually a thorough clean of it (and new fuses) does wonders.

[datsunfreak]

Be sure to make photos and drawings of each connector with the color code to each pin. That will serve you well.

That is the plan.

I also printed the wiring diagram out HUGE and laminated it.

[pidjones]

Too bad they don't make a gun brush small enough to fit the female bullet connectors. That would be gold! A small round diamond file helps, though.

[datsunfreak]

Too bad they don't make a gun brush small enough to fit the female bullet connectors. That would be gold! A small round diamond file helps, though.

On Datsuns, I have had great success with a soak in vinegar. It's the best way I've found to clean the corrosion out of a fusebox too.

[datsunfreak]

Any recommendations on the best way to clean electrical contacts, like generic contact cleaner, or? Beside the obvious vinegar soak.

[Fred Camper]

Not bad to use steel wool, just do not leave steel behind and coat them with ox-guard or dielectric grease.

[datsunfreak]

Not bad to use steel wool, just do not leave steel behind and coat them with ox-guard or dielectric grease.

Ox-guard makes me a little nervous since it's electrically conductive (unlike dialectric grease). Have you used it with good results?

I see good online reviews for using Deoxit, so I may give that a shot.

[Fred Camper]

Not tried Ox-Gard on the bike but it is a must to stop aluminum copper corrosion issues. Dielectic grease is a safer bet.

[datsunfreak]

Not tried Ox-Gard on the bike but it is a must to stop aluminum copper corrosion issues. Dielectic grease is a safer bet.

Thanks

[DET17]

Nice to see another low mile GL1 come out of the grave. I agree with other's sentiment, a one owner bike of this age is rather amazing.

I sure wouldn't attempt to turn that engine with a starter until the belts are replaced. If you check my thread, you can see the condition of the cylinder bores (my bike was stored with carbs OFF, not good). I've already been through those and have them remedied.

Any motorized machine which has sat as long as ours have, is going to take some careful analysis and "due dilligence" before it will perform reliably. It won't be a "flush the fuel tank and install new tires" affair.

Good luck! Your machine is more together than my 76 LTD was when I rescued it.

[datsunfreak]

Your machine is more together than my 76 LTD was when I rescued it.

Yeah, I'm lucky the only things missing are the emblems and front turn signals.

Got the badges, but need to start hunting for the signals soon...