Polishing Aluminum

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Alley Kat
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Post #16 by Alley Kat » Wed Jan 23, 2008 4:26 am

Used it on small areas of paint too, and to fix scratched CDs.

babyproofer
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Polishing and Clear coat

Post #17 by babyproofer » Mon Jul 21, 2008 8:55 pm

I polished my timing belt covers about 10 years ago and put a clear coat on them without knowing how it would work. I allowed them to sit for about a week and waxed them before putting them back on. The clear coat has done fine. I am not sure what brand it was, but I bought it at an auto parts store where Krylon lacquer was sold (which I used to repaint the rear half of the frame). I don't recall the clear coat being Krylon.
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AZCycle73
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Post #18 by AZCycle73 » Wed Jul 23, 2008 12:20 pm

I think clearcoat is the way to go for long-term shine. I've had good luck with wax but I would recommend an acrylic polymer rather than a wax. Stay away from ANY wax that has Carnuba in it. Carnuba wax is fantastic for show cars that are covered/garaged 90% of the time, but it has a tendency to yellow over it's VERY short lifespan.

On my 65 Mustang (and everything else) I use Meguiar's #20 Synthetic Polymer Sealant. It's a blend of more traditional waxes, acrylic polymers, very light buffing compounds, and fillers to help fill in small inconsistencies.

http://www.meguiars.com/?pro-liquid-car-waxes/Polymer-Sealant

It goes on easy, wipes of easy and lasts quite a while. I don't know how long it will last on engine parts that heat up but I suspect it would last longer than traditional wax.


Great write-up! Unfortunately, I don't have any buffing wheels... I gotta do all mine with elbow grease, lots of cursing, and beer.
1976 GL1000 - in progress - 70,000 miles - Originally Sulfur Yellow

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Post #19 by sunnbobb » Wed Jul 23, 2008 1:54 pm

Good article!

After the white rouge, one can go the "NASA" step and use India Ink for a true mirror finish.

As for protecting and renewal, I am addicted to FLITZ polish. You can order in online. It leaves a protective coating on the finished piece.
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polishing

Post #20 by bobbyc1000 » Sun Aug 24, 2008 5:00 pm

For plastic put them in a dishwasher first,dont tell the wife.
Then you can use toothpaste as it is lightly abrasive.
cheers Bob
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Post #21 by dirtmagnit » Wed Apr 15, 2009 12:28 am

One may even try Mother's Aluminum polish on the plastic also. ANY glossy plastic can benefit. This is if you don't want to wet sand and finish polishing them off. You can also use the bench polisher with a very careful hand and the white rouge. Very careful. Mother's is easier.

The clear mentioned above from Eastwood is Diamond Clear. Dulls slightly, and not recommended where gas may drip (it will yellow badly.)

I used to do the wet sand polish into the bench grinder afterward, but these days it is quicker to run through it with a jute wheel with rouge to take off all the old clear and oxidation, burning through the rest of the wheels and finer rouges quickly. Polishing goes quickly with some practice.

I'm not a professional. I just love polishing old Hondas. Lots of CB's and two GL's have given me a little practice.

Just my .02.

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Re: Polishing Aluminum

Post #22 by Paul Narramore » Mon Mar 16, 2015 12:13 pm

I've just been reading this thread. Where actually is Bryan's item on polishing as there is no link within his first post yet people are complimenting him on it.

My own experience of aluminium (two I's ;-)) is that I use a bench grinder with three grades of circular mops, each is used with a particular 'courseness' of polishing wax. The three waxes are brown, blue and white in colour. It still takes me quite a while as I get (sort of) skidmarks of wax and am never too sure of whether or not I have applied too much or too little of the stuff. I eventually get there and finish with hand applied Solvo Autosol. My timing belt covers look pretty good, even if I do say so myself, but other than regular polishing, I haven't clear coated nor waxed them. I've never heard of waxing polished aluminium. I have noticed the aluminium on the GW does oxidise pretty quickly.
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Re: Polishing Aluminum

Post #23 by Rusty0149 » Tue Oct 08, 2019 9:51 pm

I polished all my engine parts with a Grizzly 3 stage buffer, got them down to a nice shine then found White Diamond polish, the guys at the boat dock told me about that.. They use it on the boats in Bull shoals lake, and the trick to it is let it sit for 2 or 3 mins. after polishing the item, the buff it off with a microfiber towel.. Works great and has a coating to it to keep it luster. Wal Mart sells it 15.00 a bottle.. and have to shake it up all the time but it works great..


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