Stator plug replacment done right

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Cookie
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#31

Post by Cookie »

This is of course starting with a properly speced connector for load and aging. Honda is still having problems here 30 years later.
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#32

Post by puffy75 »

I replaced mine with a 6 pin connector. This spaced the connectors further apart. Good so far. You can get it from the same place.
May The Fours Be With You.

CB77 1965 First Bike
GL1000 1975 "Puffy" damaged in accident
CB750F2 1978
GL1000 1976 "Puffy Too"
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technojock
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#33

Post by technojock »

The problem is the terminals corrode. Corroded terminals develop resistance, the resistance turns electrical power to heat the the heat melts the plug.

The solution is a new plug and seal out all air and water with a good packing of dielectric grease. After that the plug won't corrode or break down...

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#34

Post by Cookie »

Well, sort of Tony. After a while the dielectric grease tends to fail. If you couple that practice with maintaining it, just cleaning now and again and repacking you have a winner. This is providing you have large enough contacts to start with.
On my desk at work I have a melted train connector to remind me of this issue whenever I get complacent.
On the other hand if you solder the wires you never need to touch them again unless you remove the engine. If you plan on engine removal, say you have 120,000 miles or a problem, it would make far more sence to use a good connector. There are nice water proof ones we use on buses I'd be tempted to use.
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#35

Post by technojock »

Cookie wrote:Well, sort of Tony. After a while the dielectric grease tends to fail.
I don't know what kind of dielectric grease you're using but the silicone based stuff at all the auto parts store here in Oregon would have to be pressure washed out to fail... If the plug is packed rather than just wiping a little dielectric grease on the terminals it won't ever fail. Do it right the first time and you won't have to do it again.

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#36

Post by puffy75 »

I hope that works for you Tony but it has been done the same way many times before with the best dialectric grease only to melt again. It is something the techs in the field bring up at training sessions frequently. The vetrans know the "right way" as you have referred to it only to have it fail again for them. It is a problem this model has. That is why I am trying the six plug experiment and spacing them further apart. I do not know if it will correct the problem but it is working well so far 6,000 mile later.
We have determained it happens more to the GLs that spend a lot of time at highway speeds, high RPMs for the GL1000.
May The Fours Be With You.

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GL1000 1975 "Puffy" damaged in accident
CB750F2 1978
GL1000 1976 "Puffy Too"
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#37

Post by Cookie »

It would also depend on the conditions of course. I imagine the different weather would matter a bit. Puffy's connector idea makes sense, if it is a bit tougher and spaces them out a bit more it may help keep heat down.
On an early wing without much stuff on it they lasted for years stock. Cleaning them and packing in grease will let them last even longer.
My friend's Pacific Coast melted a couple Honda ones packed in grease, they don't seem to have cured that yet.
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#38

Post by technojock »

In 17+ years as a motorcycle mechanic I've never had to repeat a stator plug replacement.

The PC doesn't make any more power at the stator than the Wing and I think a properly repaired plug would do the job.

I've made this offer before and I'll repeat it now. I'll do one free stator plug fix for some one here in Portland, OR but they have to report back every 3 0r 4 months for a year on how it lasts.

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#39

Post by Cookie »

If you have something that works for a technique, and it sounds like it does, have at it. Most mechanics find something that works for them and stick with it. For me soldering has been a permanent fix on commercial equipment for over 40 years so I stick with what I know how to do.
Soldering and connector use can get you into a bar fight like tires and oil.
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#40

Post by Miky-Biky »

How come the 3 wire connector almost always is a problem and the 8 wire connector, next to it, remains better?
Any ideas?
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#41

Post by technojock »

Miky-Biky wrote:How come the 3 wire connector almost always is a problem and the 8 wire connector, next to it, remains better?
Any ideas?
Not always but the one on my wing was trashed. This plug is up out of the weather and the 3 prong pug is more exposed and gets rainwater tossed up on it during a wet ride. Then quite often that little rubber cover Honda put on it is turned up so it acts as a water trap and the connection runs in a water bath.

I've seen the same things on the old Vetter (and other) fairing installs where the wiring was crammed into a plastic bag closed with a snap. The bag fills with water and all the connections inside corrode. It's better to let the connections hand out in the open than to enclose them in something that holds water on them.

I don't recommend only packing the stator plug with dielectric grease, I recommend packing all the connections with it. Coat the ends of fuses with dielectric grease too.

It's taken the motorcycle industry way too long to start doing this from the factory and if we really love our old bikes, we'll take the time to do this...

Tony
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#42

Post by Rat »

I found your pictorial very helpful.

Thanks.

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#43

Post by technojock »

You're very welcome. I'm always glad to help out another biker.

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Re: Stator plug replacment done right

#44

Post by littlebeaver »

I have to wonder if this is caused by a poor ground at the frame or negitive battery post, or maybe too many accessories???? Can a guy replace the wires all together with a larger gauge wire straight or directly from the stator into the recifier with no plugins required, if either ever needed replacing in the future they could just cut the wires and put in a connector of their choice..Sometimes crazy ideas work..
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Re: Stator plug replacment done right

#45

Post by puffy75 »

A heavier wire would mean higher resistance and lower the stator output.
I have an update for what remedies I have tried. The six pin connector helped but just over a longer period. I tried something really radical though and replace the muti pin connector with regular bullet connectors and sleeves from the Honda electrical connector repair kit. They are still on there. The heat was then transfered to that rectifier connector and melted that for the first time. I removed the yellow wires from that connector and replaced them with the same bullets..... whala they have been on there since. No melt on corrision nothing.
Now I have a stator with more output capabilty so I have been fighting a harder fight than normal but if you have tried everything and come up as I did this may help.
May The Fours Be With You.

CB77 1965 First Bike
GL1000 1975 "Puffy" damaged in accident
CB750F2 1978
GL1000 1976 "Puffy Too"
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