I recently decided to replace my 'bright then brighter" neutral switch on my 77 gl1000. I didn't have and impact driver so I used what I had.
I used the air hammer with a chisel bit(not pictured) to break the screws loose on the oil screen access plate because a screw driver wasn't going to work. I was as gentle as you can be with an air hammer.
The switch was a little stuck but not too stuck for the gentle air hammer.
I used the pick axe to pry the frame to get the switch out. It helped to pry having the flat blade of the axe perpendicular to handle.
I replaced the stupid impossible screws with smart friendly hex head bolts.
Up until now, I've never seen that light off while the bike was running. Pretty cool.
I removed the frame bolt, and left hand sub-frame acorn nuts most of the way off. I removed the exhaust header.Neutral Switch Replacement w/ Engine in Frame
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Re: Neutral Switch Replacement w/ Engine in Frame
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77 GL1000
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Re: Neutral Switch Replacement w/ Engine in Frame
Did mine last night, I need to buy a motorcycle lift lol....
The hidden screw for the cover plate was a pain in the rear, ended up dremeling halfway through the head and which point it was kind enough to come loose and was able to be screwed out. Replaced it with a bolt as others said.
Had I known I'd have ordered a new o-ring for that plate, if it's available. We'll see if it leaks.
The switch took a bunch of monkeying with to get it to release, moving the shifter didn't help, prying neither much until
I got it rotating with a hammer and dedicated abusing screwdriver. The o-ring stayed in, easy to remove, I installed it with the o-ring on the switch using a little red rubber grease, seemed to go in okay. We'll see if it pours oil later.
I did test the new and old switch on the bench before installing.
I drove some wood in here and there as others did and the final movement was with a small pry bar stuck between the case and frame at the forward mounting bolt spot. Up on the center stand I could see one knocking the bike over while prying if they aren't careful so be forewarned. Or have a proper lift and tie downs.
I'd have never got the screw out of the switch without a special tiny right angle screwdriver I made years ago for some dash work on an old Alfa, one might be able to leave it on the switch and remove it after it's out, and install the same way.
All in all that was an annoyance but the light finally works now.
The hidden screw for the cover plate was a pain in the rear, ended up dremeling halfway through the head and which point it was kind enough to come loose and was able to be screwed out. Replaced it with a bolt as others said.
Had I known I'd have ordered a new o-ring for that plate, if it's available. We'll see if it leaks.
The switch took a bunch of monkeying with to get it to release, moving the shifter didn't help, prying neither much until
I got it rotating with a hammer and dedicated abusing screwdriver. The o-ring stayed in, easy to remove, I installed it with the o-ring on the switch using a little red rubber grease, seemed to go in okay. We'll see if it pours oil later.
I did test the new and old switch on the bench before installing.
I drove some wood in here and there as others did and the final movement was with a small pry bar stuck between the case and frame at the forward mounting bolt spot. Up on the center stand I could see one knocking the bike over while prying if they aren't careful so be forewarned. Or have a proper lift and tie downs.
I'd have never got the screw out of the switch without a special tiny right angle screwdriver I made years ago for some dash work on an old Alfa, one might be able to leave it on the switch and remove it after it's out, and install the same way.
All in all that was an annoyance but the light finally works now.
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