Valve stem oil seal swap, leaving the head in place

[adecood]

Yep I did that too (put some grease on the stem) and they still keep falling out. That's when I laid it on it's side and the process went much smoother.

[adecood]

Another point I would like to make on replacing the oil seals. I purchase the tool like the one earlier in the post (the one with the tagel clamp). But after doing 6 of the 8 valve one of the small rods broke off of the collar. But a friend of mine came to the rescue with a tool that has a screw type mech. After using both types of tools I would recommend the screw type tool it is more controllable and is much easier to use. I ended up having the rods welded . But if I need to do this job again I am going to purchase the screw type tool.

[Ianboundy]

Just joined the club. I'm in UK. Have a solo Moto Guzzi.
Now I also have an old GL1100 trike.
But it smokes a lot!! So started on stripping down to replace the valve stem seals. Also replacing rad hoses, thermostat and of course timing belts.
Never tried to do this type of work myself before! But got a Haynes and some excellent advise from this forum.
So rads off, timing belt covers are off and it is at T1.
But although the centre pulley has a mark at the top or 12 o clock the arrows on the toothed cogs both point towards the centreline of the bike and both the "UP" markings are upside down at the bottom or 6 o clock position.
Is this right? The bike ran OK before starting. Have the toothed pulleys been installed wrongly by a previous owner? Does it matter?
Any advice welcome

[CYBORG]

the cams turn at a different rate then the crank. Rotate the crank one more time (360 degrees), and the cams should be closer to the top. (up at the top)

[RAT]

Ian .... please check your private messages ....

Gord