THANK YOU, ROADY! (and others who have contributed with comments. . .)
Those of us who need a manual to perform wrenching tasks are SOL when relying on the Clymer for this job. Unless I'm looking in the wrong place, or have an older version (?) of the Clymer -- the "how-to" instructions on water-pump replacement are a cruel JOKE. . .they don't even talk about removing the front engine cover. I knew this to be wrong, because I performed this same repair on my old '84 Wing. Great tutorial, here.
The only other "add" that I would mention - and I'm not the first on this thread to do so, is to be very careful when torquing the three bolts for the water pump. It's easy to squash the new aluminum crush washers to smithereens, even when the value on your click-wrench is set correctly (or maybe it's just me). In my old age, I've come to a place of relying more on "feel," especially when bolt-tightening over a crush washer. In my limited experience, many torque wrenches don't do so well when applying lower values to the bolt. This can create manifest unhappiness, especially if you live in the middle of nowheresville and can't pop down to the local store to buy crush washers or other fasteners.
Gratuitous comment: In my experience, at least in smaller towns, auto-parts stores don't stock motorcycle-related O-rings, crush-washers, etc. It may just be that they don't want to try to track stuff down when you don't have a part number, but the result is the same - you will walk away disappointed. Can't imagine doing a restoration without the Internet!
1980 GL1100 Std. w/ Unit Forks & Watsonian Monaco on the side - Old Son
Restoration underway (7/10) -- RESTORATION COMPLETE (11-10)
1994 BMW R1100RS - MoonBeamer
"We're gonna do this here trick nonchalant, or we ain't gonna do it."
-Edna St. Vincent Millay-