Ignition Switch cleaning

Post your "How To", or share tips and tricks about maintenance related to four cylinder Wings. Only registered users can read this forum.

Moderators: Whiskerfish, Forum Moderators

Post Reply
User avatar
peteybug
Silver Member
Silver Member
Posts: 787
Joined: Sun Feb 10, 2008 2:20 pm
Location: northern new york

#16

Post by peteybug »

CROCUS: 1) A dark red powdered variety of natural iron oxide [[ferric oxide]], Fe2O3, used as an abrasive for polishing (American Heritage Dictionary). 2) The name is applied to the peroxide of iron obtained [[artificially]] by calcination of sulphate of iron, and used as a polishing powder. (Oxford English Dictionary)

CROCUS CLOTH: A very slightly abrasive cloth which contains the mineral ‘crocoite,’ lead chromate, PbCrO4. The mineral was named in French in 1838 by Berthier crocoise, from Greek krokoeis, saffron-colored, from krokos, saffron (crocus is another name for saffron, an orange-red condiment consisting of the dried orange-colored stigmas of Crocus sativus and used to color and flavor food); altered by Dana in 1844 to crocoisite, and in 1868 to crocoite (American Heritage Dictionary, Random House Unabridged Dictionary, Oxford English Dictionary) Crocus Cloth
Crocus Cloth
This is a very fine grit iron-oxide coated abrasive on a cloth backing. It is used to polish after most of the work has been done with emery or aluminum oxide. Normally used only on metals.
love new ideas for old wing's. AS I have three and am always working on them

[img]http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh55/peteybug8/motorcycle040-1.jpg[/img][img]http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh55/peteybug8/motorcycle037-1-1.jpg[/img][img]http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh55/peteybug8/3%20wings/Townworkandbikes036-1.jpg[/img]
User avatar
Sidecar Bob
Honored Life Member
Honored Life Member
Posts: 7630
Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 10:14 pm
Location: Kawartha Lakes, Ontario

#17

Post by Sidecar Bob »

OK. I stand corrected.

But I would recommend flushing it well with contact cleaner afterward because iron oxide is conductive.

Actually, flushing it with contact cleaner is a pretty good idea no matter what you use.

Another possibity is to use a Scotchbrite pad and contact cleaner. I just did the commutator of 650's starter motor that way and it came really clean really fast.
Mr. Honda ('83 GL1100/Dnepr) summer How a motorcycle evolves thread
The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650EI/VeloUral) winter Never Ending Build (CX500forum)
Click: Colour schematics for all GL1000 & GL1100 and GL1200 standard models plus instructions on how to download the full size version
"A guy with two sidecars can't be all bad." - Cookie
Another guy with two sidecars..... Hmmmm... must be something to that....
cycleman
Silver Member
Silver Member
Posts: 528
Joined: Thu Jun 19, 2008 7:49 am
Location: Regina, Saskatchewan Canada

#18

Post by cycleman »

Often when you take the base off it will come loose on its own later & cause the bike to die. You'll chase your tail off trying to figure out what is wrong.

Wire the plastic portion to the metal part of the switch when you have it out. That way it can't come loose. These switches have a habit of loosing continuity.
Currently own: Restored 1977 Goldwing
Current project: Restoring 78 CB750F
Previous bikes: XJ650, GS550, XT500, 77 Goldwing, and a few others
User avatar
Bufobufo
Chrome Member
Chrome Member
Posts: 131
Joined: Sun Jun 21, 2009 5:00 pm
Location: Teddington England

Ignition S/W fixes

#19

Post by Bufobufo »

Just had my s/w assy off due to a stuck lock, comes out easy. Lock freed with light oil and a few 'technical taps'.
As for the lock electrics, try to a avoid a strip, I did one on a Suzuki because it fell apart and, as someone said, it needed to be held together externaly afterwards.
Switch cleaner can work wonders, buy or borrow (best). I have some Servisol super 10, very good on Boeings as well.
JohnR - 76 GL 1000 Yellow Bird - in Cold Old England.
User avatar
luludog
Silver Member
Silver Member
Posts: 548
Joined: Fri Apr 13, 2012 4:16 am
Location: Lawton, Michigan 49065

Re: Ignition Switch cleaning

#20

Post by luludog »

Pete, just a word of Thanks for your tutorial. Had an ignition switch problem and was able to follow your excellent instructions. Works great now. Saved me some $$$ too.

Thanks again!
-Ray

1977 GL1000 - http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=40398
1975 CB750K5 - stock restoration http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=40426
1971 CB175K5 - stock restoration http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic. ... 95&start=0
1972 CB350 - resto-mod cafe project http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=47429


"Remembering the Past... Liv'n the Dream"
larryb
Lead Member
Lead Member
Posts: 3
Joined: Fri May 23, 2014 11:52 pm
Location: Alberta Canada

Re: Ignition Switch cleaning

#21

Post by larryb »

I have my 79 GL 1000 ignition key switch out of the bike. My headlights and gauge lights are not working. When I meter the posts on the ignition switch I only get a closed on two of the pins opposite each other. From looking at the switch position schematic I believe I should get two closed switches when I meter the pins. Am I on the right path??
User avatar
roncar
Vice President
Vice President
Posts: 4856
Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2008 4:30 pm
My Album: http://www.ngwclub.com/gallery3/index.p ... s/roncarGL
Location: Lakeland, Florida

Re: Ignition Switch cleaning

#22

Post by roncar »

If you look at where the wires are, in conjunction with the switch position:

1. in lock or in off positions no connections are made
2. in the acc position a connection is made from the red wire to the light green/black wire (applies power to the acc terminal)
3. in the on position a connection is made from the red wire to the black wire and the light green/black wire (applies power to the fuses and fan)
...also a connection is made between the 2 brown/white wires (this connects the tail light to power)
4. in the park position a connection is made between the red, green/black, and brown wires. (applies power to the acc terminal and tail light only.)

The only connection in the switch that affects the headlights and gauge lights is the on position red to black. If that connection was bad, nothing on the bike would work (ie wouldn't power up or run.)

If your switch makes connections as described above, check your fuses and their sockets. Remember, just because the fuses look good, doesn't mean that they are.
Attachments
79ingsw.png
79ingsw.png (212.48 KiB) Viewed 395 times
"I periodically misspell words just to annoy the word police."

Image
User avatar
Barney T Weasel
Titanium Member
Titanium Member
Posts: 378
Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2013 7:21 pm
Location: Central Coast Australia

Re: Ignition Switch cleaning

#23

Post by Barney T Weasel »

Thanks for this thread. :-D :orange
GL1000 '75 model Blue....heading to rat, then cafe racer then full resto...owned 33 years.
http://www.dungbeetlebiker.com/forum/forum.php
User avatar
Scooter
Zinc Member
Zinc Member
Posts: 47
Joined: Thu Aug 14, 2014 5:17 pm
Location: Lynden, Washingtom

Re: Ignition Switch cleaning

#24

Post by Scooter »

Great post peteybug! I have found that a 3M disc on my die grinder cleans up and even removes grooves. Since it's flat, I just "resurface" the contact area, plastic and contacts. Keep the tool at a lower speed and just touch the contact surface to the moving 3M pad. Wear gloves and be careful to keep part concentric with the 3M pad, or the switch might fly to the other side of the shop :-? . Since the contacts are spring loaded you can remove quite a bit, but only take off as much as is necessary, to restore the surface.
1976 GL1000 LTD for sale
1982 CX500C customized
1976 GL1000 Sulphur Yellow project
1978 GL1000 Blue rat project
1978 GL1000 Black project/parts
1978 GL1000 parts, not many left
1980 CX500 parts
1982 GL500 sold
1982 GL500 Interstate
2014 CB1100A
2017 CMX500 wife's new ride
Post Reply
  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Return to “How To 4-Wings (Tutorials Only)”