GL1000 Carb removal

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Whiskerfish
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GL1000 Carb removal

#1

Post by Whiskerfish »

Roady has done a great job on this for the 1100 but there are some differences for the 1000. Also Randakk has an excellent tech tip on the subject here http://www.randakks.com/Carb%20Removal.htm


If you have not had your carbs out yet this is a basic picture/drawing of what you are facing for the cables.

Image

1. Make your bike safe for Maintenance. I recommend using the centerstand for this procedure as you will need access to both sides and the top.

2. Fuel petcock off

3. Disconnect the fuel line. I usually do this at the output of the pump for the easiest access.

4. Open the top shelter cover, remove tool tray then both side covers and their respective retention knobs (use caution not to loose the threaded washers for the retention knobs). Remove air Filter cover then Air filter.

5. Using a 10mm socket on a long extension locate 2 bolts that secure the Air filter housing to the Carb plenum and remove same.

6. Remove the engine vent lines from Air Filter housing. On the 78/79 there are 2 hoses located on the back left side of the housing. On the 75-77 there is one hose attached to the back right side of the housing. Yes they are a pain in the butt!

7. Now lift housing up and out. Tilting it forward seems to help some but if you go too far it will jam. It takes some wiggling. Make sure the get the square gasket that sits between the carb plenum and the filter housing.

8. Now you should be able to see the top of the carbs and the cables etc. Take notice of the cable routing. Follow the cables forward along the left side of the shelter housing. Here you will see the pull cable tension adjuster
Image

9. This often requires a soaking with some penetrate if it has not been worked in a while. Using a 10mm and a 8mm (I think) for the barrel loosen the locknut then screw the barrel in putting some slack in the pull cable. You should be able to monitor your progress by giving gentle twists to the throttle and observing the amount of free-play in the grip. You want as much as you can get to assist with removing and installing the cables on the carb bellcrank.

10. Remove the spark plug wires and stow as far forward as you can.

11. At this point many folks go straight to the cables but I prefer to get the carbs loose first. It gives a small amount of wiggle room for the wrenches later on. Remove the 8 Acorn bolts that secure the intake runners to the heads. Disconnect the Choke Cable from the right side using a # 2 JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) Screwdriver. (Hint) just get the screw loose enough to get the cable out from under the hold down. Then with your left hand rotate the Choke mechanism up toward the cable and disconnect the end of the cable.

Image

12. Now slide the carbs slightly left and back. They will only move a small amount. Using a JIS screwdriver remove the Air Cut off Valve. Ensure to remove the 2 lower screws and not the screws that hold the valve together

Image

13. Place the screws for the valve in a safe location and make sure to get the 2 small O Rings that go between the valve and the Carb Plenum.

Image

14. Slide the carbs slightly forward. I usually start with the push cable. Using 2 10mm open-ended wrenches loosen the lock nut and get the cable free of the Bell-crank support. I do this with one hand going in the left side and the other going in from the shelter cover access. When the cable is free of te support push the cable housing down a bit to create some slack at the bottom of the bell-crank. Now move over to the right side of the bike and using a 90 degree pick (a bent nail and a pair of pliers works fine) get between the cable and the bell-crank and bring the slack up to the point where the cable swedge is in the bell-crank. Rotate the cable to 90 degrees and then slide the swedge out the side of the hole. Repeat this process for the top (pull) cable.

Image

15. Ensure to pay attention to the placement of the washers and especially the formed washers as they engage the bell-crank cable support. There are several different variations on the market. Now again noting the routing of the cables for reinstallation pull them up through the shelter cover access and lay them out of the way.

Image

Image

16. Here is a tip I will borrow from Randakk's tips. If you value the finish on your valve covers then now is the time to protect them. Duct tape will do a nice job on the left hand head valve covers.
17. The Carbs will come out the left hand side at this point but will require a fair amount of wiggling. To make the job easier slide the rack left and going through the shelter access remove the inboard screw on the # 1 CV Cap then slide the rack to the right and remove the outboard screw and remove the cap and slide and spring. Now the rack should exit the left side of the bike with minimal wiggling. After removal ensure to verify that all 4 intake to head O Rings are accounted for.
Last edited by Whiskerfish on Tue Jun 30, 2009 6:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"Agreement is not a requirement for Respect" CDR Michael Smith USN (Ret) 2017
"The book is wrong, this whole Conclusion is Fallacious" River Tam
2008 GL1800 IIIA "TH3DOG"
1975/6/7/8/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike
and a whole garage full of possibilities!!

Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!
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78AZWing
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#2

Post by 78AZWing »

Nice!

Would removing both CV caps from 1 and 3 make the removal easier, or is that just a tad bit too much?
For that run-down feeling -
Try Jaywalking!

1978 'Wing with Weber conversion, UnDressed
1976 Junkyard 'Wing with a Dyna ignition. Otherwise undressed.

Proud member of the "NGW CARTEL"
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Whiskerfish
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#3

Post by Whiskerfish »

Yea it would probably make it easier.
"Agreement is not a requirement for Respect" CDR Michael Smith USN (Ret) 2017
"The book is wrong, this whole Conclusion is Fallacious" River Tam
2008 GL1800 IIIA "TH3DOG"
1975/6/7/8/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike
and a whole garage full of possibilities!!

Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!
heraldhamster
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#4

Post by heraldhamster »

78AZWing wrote:Nice!

Would removing both CV caps from 1 and 3 make the removal easier, or is that just a tad bit too much?
but sometimes they're finicky to get off, due to the frame rail, if you haven't already removed the intake runner bolts so you can jiggle the carb rack around.
sorta bulldogged custom 1978 GL1000 - "geekster"
full Vetter dress 1979 GL1000 - "Barge" (currently down)
1986 1200 Aspencade - "Heart of Gold" - daily rider
1990 1500 Aspencade - It's ALIVE! but very, very naked. not in a good way.
1978 for $100 - project in worx
1978 from a previous member here - taking up space
my original '79 bought in '91 - replacing engine (eventually, maybe someday)

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prime45
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#5

Post by prime45 »

Great write up ,and pics.I was puting my carbs back on the bike and new cables.Push and pull.Every thing went togather right .And even looked like your pics.But the throttle sweemed to rotate backwards and have no return snap.
It seems like there is no other way to put things back togather.I have the push cable on the bottom and the pull cable on top.Am i missing something?And there is only one way to put the cables togather at the grip.It just dosent seem right.What am I doing wrong?
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78AZWing
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#6

Post by 78AZWing »

The pull cable is the one with the extra adjuster in the middle that you can reach after removing the aircleaner housing. Goes to the front connector on the handlebar and the top of the wheel toward the right side of the bike after the carb rack is back on the bike.

Does this make sense?
For that run-down feeling -
Try Jaywalking!

1978 'Wing with Weber conversion, UnDressed
1976 Junkyard 'Wing with a Dyna ignition. Otherwise undressed.

Proud member of the "NGW CARTEL"
RodHolland
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#7

Post by RodHolland »

You might want to leave the air valve until after you get the carbs loose. On my 78 it is almost impossible to get at the front screw with out sliding the carbs back a little.
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prime45
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Re: GL1000 Carb removal

#8

Post by prime45 »

[quote="Whiskerfish"]Roady has done a great job on this for the 1100 but there are some differences for the 1000. Also Randakk has an excellent tech tip on the subject here http://www.randakks.com/Carb%20Removal.htm


If you have not had your carbs out yet this is a basic picture/drawing of what you are facing for the cables.
-------------SNIP-------------------
16. Here is a tip I will “borrowâ€Â
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Whiskerfish
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#9

Post by Whiskerfish »

I had to go open one to look to be sure. The lug recepticles for the cables is pointing straight forward. The pull cable goes in the front hole.

Image
"Agreement is not a requirement for Respect" CDR Michael Smith USN (Ret) 2017
"The book is wrong, this whole Conclusion is Fallacious" River Tam
2008 GL1800 IIIA "TH3DOG"
1975/6/7/8/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike
and a whole garage full of possibilities!!

Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!
prime45
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Location: Newbern NC

#10

Post by prime45 »

Are both cables side by side in that picture.So the pull cable gose in the front hole and the push cable gose in the hole behind .They run along side each other?Looks that way in the picture right?
The pull cable comes straight out of the cable into the lug recepticles and the push cable wraps around by the pull cable into the front hole.
Maybe thats where I mixed them up. :?:
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Whiskerfish
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#11

Post by Whiskerfish »

No there is only one cable visible there. The pull cable goes in the front hole and up to the lug fitting on the throttle grip. It is not visible in that picture at all. The push cable goes in the back hole and that is what you see wrapped around the plastic there to the lug fitting. That other grey line is a grease smear or something.
"Agreement is not a requirement for Respect" CDR Michael Smith USN (Ret) 2017
"The book is wrong, this whole Conclusion is Fallacious" River Tam
2008 GL1800 IIIA "TH3DOG"
1975/6/7/8/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike
and a whole garage full of possibilities!!

Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!
prime45
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Joined: Thu May 07, 2009 3:57 pm
Location: Newbern NC

#12

Post by prime45 »

Can I talk to you on the ph? Something just dosent seem right here.My ph is
Ken Jahna
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#13

Post by prime45 »

I,m home right now.
Ken Jahna
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#14

Post by Whiskerfish »

I edited your post and removed your phone number. Sorry I did not get back in here last night. Shoot me a PM if you still have not figured it out.
"Agreement is not a requirement for Respect" CDR Michael Smith USN (Ret) 2017
"The book is wrong, this whole Conclusion is Fallacious" River Tam
2008 GL1800 IIIA "TH3DOG"
1975/6/7/8/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike
and a whole garage full of possibilities!!

Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!
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#15

Post by Zero-G »

What would be the disadvantage of not having the push cable and is there anyone that had a problem at the high rpm range by not having one on?
Ride it like you built it.

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