How To Lubricate The Rear Drive Splines

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Old Fogey
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Re: How To Lubricate The Rear Drive Splines

#61

Post by Old Fogey »

The moly grease used in Auto front drive CV units has to cope with incredibly high shear forces all the time. Yet is is almost a 'fit and forget' thing. My last Skoda had 241k miles and had one change of CV joint due to the rubber boot splitting and allowing dirt into it. My current Skoda has 130k and it has never even crossed my mind to think about the joints.
I'm pretty sure that any of these CV greases would do as good a job, or better, than the high price 'speciality' greases since none of the splines on our bikes have to cope with anything like those kind of forces.
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Ccarel1
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Re: Just finished the project!

#62

Post by Ccarel1 »

dutchpurrpl wrote: Sat Sep 12, 2009 4:20 pm
DutchPurrpl wrote:Hey, just letting you know I finished a combination of this project and several more "while the wheels were off". Thanks to all who have contributed to this wealth of great information. I figure I saved over $1000 by doing the front engine work, the timing belts, and the drive spline while the rims were in for new Dunlop Elite IIIs. Total cost for all (minus tires) was about $140. Of course, that's in addition to the great satisfaction and bonding with the machine. Thanks again for all your help.
Dutch.
Just wanted to let y'all know this is my new address. The old account wouldn't work right anymore, so Roady deleted it and gave me this one. Although I lost my "lead" cred, it's still me, and I've put on about 200 miles since that previous post, including@ 80+ mph. Runs great, solid as a rock! I did have to retighten the water pump housing bolts twice, as they work in a little after heating and cooling.
Just one thing: how do I get rid of the vision of the front wheel studs coming loose, the wheel going flying, and the fork digging into the highway, launching me into a thousand foot arc?
Dutch
Be safe.....wear a parachute!
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