Page 1 of 2

Clutch Centre Nut Removal

Posted: Thu Aug 13, 2009 3:13 pm
by Old Fogey
I've seen this subject come up on many occasions, so some points to doing the clutch

Ok,

1) remove the clutch lever cover

2) Slacken the cable adjusters right off and remove the cable from the lever

3) Remove the clutch cover

4) Slowly and evenly using a diagonal technique undo the six bolts that hold the clutch pressure release plate. If you are not careful with this the pressure release plate can crack!

5) Using some large repair type washers under them, put the bolts back on three of the springs and tighten them down. (They don't have to be tightened right up, finger tight to the spring carrier will do). As you will note, I used some flanged nuts which were perfect for the job.

6) bend the locking tab of the centre nut lock washer back.

7) If the engine is still in the frame, put the bike in 1st gear and have someone stand on the rear brake, or tie the lever down somehow.
If it's out of the frame, use a spanner on the crankshaft timing pulley bolt.

Some folk advocate using the alternator rotor bolt, but IMHO there is too much danger of slacking that bolt off. If the rotor gets loose it will destroy the splines on it's shaft in very short order and probably the stator as well!

8) Undo the centre nut, it's a normal right hand thread. Please, please use the correct tool for this. They are not dear, about the same price as the screwdriver you were going to ruin by hammering the nut off! :)




Image





9) If the engine is in the frame, remove the bolts and springs and then the plates.

If the engine is on the bench the whole plate pack can be lifted out as a unit if you leave the springs and nuts in place.

10) when rebuilding, just reverse the procedure. Use a new locking washer, don't forget the Belville washer which goes in with the convex surface towards the nut and the spirals on the friction plates go anti-clockwise as you look at the clutch.

11) Lastly, the housekeeping. Make sure you clean out any old clutch material from the bottom of the cases around the scavenge pump.

Posted: Thu Aug 13, 2009 4:04 pm
by Whiskerfish
Excellent write up as usual OF ;) ;)

One note of caution, the cover plate has a warning in the Honda shop manual about the proper procedure for tightening and torquing. Use extreme caution as these do break if not tightened down evenly and torqued up evenly. Several of our members have broken these and it is easy to do while tightening under that spring load.

Posted: Thu Aug 13, 2009 4:34 pm
by Recycled Roadkill
I do wish I'd seen that tip with the springs and washers before we did Kwixdraws clutch last Friday. That would have likely saved a bunch of time.

Posted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 8:31 am
by Old Fogey
Whiskerfish wrote:Excellent write up as usual OF ;) ;)

One note of caution, the cover plate has a warning in the Honda shop manual about the proper procedure for tightening and torquing. Use extreme caution as these do break if not tightened down evenly and torqued up evenly. Several of our members have broken these and it is easy to do while tightening under that spring load.


See step 4.
I've called it the pressure plate but, no matter what you call it, be aware that it's fragile.

Posted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 8:55 am
by Whiskerfish
:-D :-D :-D :-D

Posted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 9:05 am
by Rat
Easy enough on the bench ... let's see how you do it with the engine in the frame :twisted:

Gord :roll:

Posted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 9:15 am
by Old Fogey
RAT wrote:Easy enough on the bench ... let's see how you do it with the engine in the frame :twisted:

Gord :roll:


Granted, a lot harder to get at. But if you can get to the spring bolts, then you can do it this way (you need small double jointed fingers, six on each hand preferably :lol: :lol: )

With the hydro slave cylinder on mine I have to drop the engine anyway to get that off first. :(

Posted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 9:31 am
by Rat
Just kidding you Fogey.

Gord (also old) Jones :-D :P :-D

Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 11:27 am
by Roady
Moved to How-To forum and nominated to ShopTalk.

Re:

Posted: Mon Feb 08, 2010 8:34 am
by Old Fogey
Old Fogey wrote:
Whiskerfish wrote:Excellent write up as usual OF ;) ;)

One note of caution, the cover plate has a warning in the Honda shop manual about the proper procedure for tightening and torquing. Use extreme caution as these do break if not tightened down evenly and torqued up evenly. Several of our members have broken these and it is easy to do while tightening under that spring load.


See step 4.
I've called it the pressure release plate but, no matter what you call it, be aware that it's fragile.

Re: Clutch Centre Nut Removal

Posted: Sat Feb 13, 2010 8:35 pm
by skwid12
is the nut left to loosen?
mine is really on there, just want to know if it is a regular thread or left handed? thanks , dave

Re: Clutch Centre Nut Removal

Posted: Sun Feb 14, 2010 1:40 am
by Old Fogey
It's a normal right hand thread nut.

Re: Clutch Centre Nut Removal

Posted: Fri Aug 06, 2010 12:03 am
by millerdog
Where do you get that special socket? I looked at the link that was in Octanes writeup, but I couldn't find it anywhere on that site.

Re: Clutch Centre Nut Removal

Posted: Fri Aug 06, 2010 1:27 am
by Old Fogey

Re: Clutch Centre Nut Removal

Posted: Fri Aug 06, 2010 2:07 pm
by millerdog
Thanks Fogey! I noticed they didn't have the GL listed ? I'm gonna order it, cause I'm getting ready to do the clutch. Just waiting on parts.