Changing the Oil

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Roady
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Changing the Oil

Post #1 by Roady » Wed Sep 16, 2009 9:08 pm

Before you undertake this procedure: Read the Disclaimer!
_________________________________________________


For this lesson, we'll be spending about an hour or two changing the oil.

Hang onto your hat 'cause we're gonna dive in and get a little dirty.

Oil Filter

Where would you like to go today?

00-filterparts.png

17mm Box/Open End Wrench

You will need one of these (unless you have a Dipstick, then 19 and 22 will do, see below).

1-17mm.jpg

Warm It Up!

Pop the bike up on the centerstand.

Either go for a 15 minute ride or let it idle until the fan comes on. I never get the ride since I'm usually in my grubbies by this time.

0-warmup.jpg

While she's pollutin', round up your drain pan, funnel, new oil and rags.

Pull The Plug

CAUTION! HOT! From now on, just assume that everything on your bike is hot. Do not touch anything with your bare hands (or leg, yes) because it is hot. Wear gloves.

Put the drain pan under the front of the bike. Grab the 17mm and lay down on the right side of the bike with your head facing forward. Use the box end to loosen the Drain Bolt. Or use a socket and ratchet and you won't have to touch the bolt. It also won't fall anywhere.

2a-oildrain.jpg

Remember, the oil is hot. Do not go fishing around with your finger in it to retrieve the Drain Bolt. Don't worry, it'll be there later when the oil cools down.

I have a dipstick so I put the open end of the 22mm on the back nut to hold it steady. You do not want it to move. Then use the open end of the 19mm to loosen the outer fitting. When that is loose, slide it forward. Then pull straight forward on the dipstick tube to free it from the fitting.

2-dipstick.jpg

Let the Fountain Run

3-smooge.jpg

Loosen the Filter Housing

Use the box end of the 17mm (or a socket) to loosen the bolt on the filter housing. Turn it out 5 or 6 turns and oil should gush out of there and back onto the engine's underside. You did bring those rags down, didn't you?

Remove the Fill Cap

4a-fillcap.jpg

Let 'er drain for about 15 minutes.

Organize while Waiting

Take the new filter out of the box. Put the old filter in the box.

6aoutin.jpg

Meanwhile, collect up the parts and clean them up. Do not lose anything, use one of your little parts buckets. There was no washer (#4) on mine when I took it apart this time. Lost in the shuffle but it wasn't leaking. I had to clean up and go over to Ace for these. 2 for a buck. I hope I never have to use the spare but it went into the tool kit.

7-spare.jpg

If your filter housing bolt (#6) will come out of the housing (#3) it probably needs a new o-ring (#11). I have never been able to remove mine and have to use a wrench to fully remove and replace the housing. It's very hard to turn by hand. But it don't leak. Replace the o-ring if the bolt is loose.

Take out the large o-ring (#13) and inspect it. This one was on the bike when I got it. It may even be the original. Works good, never leaks. It's going back in.

Here's the order of reassembly.
  1. Put some fresh oil on #11 and slide it over #6.
  2. Slip #6 into #3 and seat it.
  3. Oil #13 and put it in place in #13's groove.
  4. Hold #3 like a bowl, drop #5 and then #4 onto the bolt.
  5. Oil the rubber fittings on #2 and press it onto #6.
**DiNg!** Your 15 minutes is up.

Elapsed time: 30 minutes

Crank It Over a Few Times

Activate the Kill Switch. Crank it with the starter for a second. Wait 5 seconds. Crank1-Wait5. Crank1. Let it drain a few more minutes.

4-stillhot.jpg

Add Half a Quart

With everything still open, drain pan in place, add about 1/2 Quart of new oil. Take a look at the splooge hole and you should see it clear up as it drains out. Takes 5 or 10 minutes. Have a beverage.

5-addhalf.jpg

Elapsed time: 40 minutes

Install the Oil Filter Unit

There are two tabs that make a slot on the outside base of the housing. These fit over a tab on the case, it's nearest to the center of the engine. Slide the housing in, line it up on the tabs and tighten the bolt. Do not give it the full power of your 17mm. About half will do nicely. I believe it's somewhere around 20 Ft.Lb.

Same on the Drain Bolt

Inspect the copper washer and replace it if you've been having leaks. Again, mine appears original but works. Install the bolt and tighten as above with your 17mm. Not too tight, those are hardened steel bolts going into an aluminum casing.

Fill It Up

Pour in the required quantity. Mine usually drinks pretty close to 4 quarts with this procedure. I'll go to 3-1/2, wait a bit and then usually end up putting in the other 1/2. [i]Edit: I've found that it's somewhere around 3-1/2 quarts. If I top it up with another half then on the first ride it eats most of that extra half quart and stays there. If I add another half she'll eat that too.

Check your sight-glass or use a dipstick to check the level. Sidecar Bob has a great suggestion for a Cheap and Easy Dipstick to keep in the shop.

6-fillit.jpg

Install the Fill Cap

Start 'er up. Check for leaks. Pick up the tools.

Put on the jacket, helmet, gloves and go enjoy the rest of the day.

Revisit at the 1st Fillup

Check the level after you run a tank through her. Seems the heads need to get wet and that takes about 1/4 of a quart.

Next time you'll be able to complete this in 45 minutes without getting your hands dirty.
.
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Last edited by Roady on Tue Nov 03, 2009 1:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.

alltex
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Post #2 by alltex » Sun Nov 01, 2009 6:42 pm

where can i get a dipstick drain plug like that? I dont know why but i want it.
78 GL 1000

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Post #3 by Cookie » Sun Nov 01, 2009 6:49 pm

JC Whitney for one place.
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Neil
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Post #4 by Neil » Sun Nov 01, 2009 6:52 pm

Can get one HERE from crescentmooncycles

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Post #5 by Cookie » Sun Nov 01, 2009 8:36 pm

I quite like the dip sticks. Until my oil gets pretty dirty I can't see it in the window.
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Post #6 by technojock » Tue Nov 03, 2009 3:25 am

The only thing I'd add to this is to be sure and use the box end of the wrench to remove the filter bolt. The open end will be way more likely to round off the corners of the bolt.

Tony
Old enough to know better but to crazy to care.

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Roady
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Post #7 by Roady » Tue Nov 03, 2009 1:42 pm

technojock wrote:The only thing I'd add to this is to be sure and use the box end of the wrench to remove the filter bolt. The open end will be way more likely to round off the corners of the bolt. - Tony

That was already in there but I've highlighted it just for you. ;)
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Re: Changing the Oil

Post #8 by 914Driver » Wed Apr 14, 2010 7:33 am

I have a 1980 1100, I don't see a site glass.


Dan

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Re: Changing the Oil

Post #9 by Roady » Thu Apr 15, 2010 1:55 pm

914Driver wrote:I have a 1980 1100, I don't see a site glass.- Dan

You need to get down on your knees on the right side of the bike. It's just forward of the right foot peg near the bottom of the engine.
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Re: Changing the Oil

Post #10 by 914Driver » Sun Apr 18, 2010 9:01 am

Thanks Roady. I see where it is, but no glass. There's an oval black plastic thing there with what looks like a small headed bolt at the center. Is that a cover? I don't want to go poking at it.

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Re: Changing the Oil

Post #11 by Cookie » Sun Apr 18, 2010 11:38 am

Yup, that's the sight glass. If dirty oil is over mine it looks black. The screw in the middle is the windshield wiper. This is why I fit dipsticks.
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Owner of 4.4 76s and one lone 75 Wings (does a spare engine make .2?)

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Re: Changing the Oil

Post #12 by 914Driver » Mon Apr 19, 2010 6:37 am

Thanks, I got it now. I read somewhere that a GW takes 4.2 quarts of oil. I changed the oil, putting in 4 qts. and a splash of Save-the-Baby. Now it's over full.


I'm so good at this stuff 'cause I do it twice.


Dan

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Re: Changing the Oil

Post #13 by Cookie » Mon Apr 19, 2010 12:19 pm

Seems to me that it's 3.4, you should be quite over the site glass if I recall correctly.
Maybe that capacity is for the newer wings?
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Owner of 4.4 76s and one lone 75 Wings (does a spare engine make .2?)

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Re: Changing the Oil

Post #14 by Roady » Mon Apr 19, 2010 7:36 pm

Somewhere around 3 1/2 quarts. I top mine up with another half and then on the first ride it eats most of that extra half quart and stays there. If I add another half she'll eat that too. girl1
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Re: Changing the Oil

Post #15 by vmeyer » Wed Jul 07, 2010 3:30 am

Due to a bad experience I had a Long time ago does it matter which way the oil filter goes in. I have always had someone else do my oil changes. Since after the bike blew up the last time the guy that bought it from me later told me that the oil filter was in backwards and therefore covered up a port that let it flow in and out. This was on an 84 250 XL dirt bike. I've been afraid to risk the engine on my wing for fear of a repeat performance.
'82 GL 1100 Wineberry
. 82 silverwing...blown up


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