I did this yesterday. I completely forgot to take photos.. My wiring was UGLY. I've been re-doing most of it a little bit at a time and this project is definitely one of the items on my list. After I finished the Stator wires, I cleaned up the wiring for my Dyna system.. the area in front of the battery looks MUCH better now.
Next is the area aft of the battery.
How to fix the dreaded "White Stator Connector"
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- evilratwing
- Silver Member
- Posts: 608
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- Location: West Sunbury, PA
Re: How to fix the dreaded "White Stator Connector"
The bike is essentially just another bike... The pilot is CRAZY.
http://www.photobucket.com/evil03ratwing
Whargoul - Murdered out 1978 GL1000 - Engine KaBOOM.
Cherry Cough Syrup - 2009 Suzuki M90 - 3,300 miles.
http://www.photobucket.com/evil03ratwing
Whargoul - Murdered out 1978 GL1000 - Engine KaBOOM.
Cherry Cough Syrup - 2009 Suzuki M90 - 3,300 miles.
- phillip0123
- Titanium Member
- Posts: 337
- Joined: Tue May 06, 2008 1:12 pm
- Location: De Queen, ARKANSAS
Re: How to fix the dreaded "White Stator Connector"
Does the solder have to be clear flux?
What I have is 1/16th dia. 60/40 rosin core electrical repair solder, will this be ok or do I need to go find some that says clear flux on the label.
What I have is 1/16th dia. 60/40 rosin core electrical repair solder, will this be ok or do I need to go find some that says clear flux on the label.
Phil
79 GL1000
93 GSX1100
09 nomad 1700
79 GL1000
93 GSX1100
09 nomad 1700
- Sidecar Bob
- Honored Life Member
- Posts: 7630
- Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 10:14 pm
- Location: Kawartha Lakes, Ontario
Re: How to fix the dreaded "White Stator Connector"
It might be too late for you but yes, any solder with non-acid flux core (such as rosin) is fine.
I highly recommend coating the wire with RTV silicone immediately before shrinking the heat shrink in order to absolutely guarantee that no moisture can get in.
An alternative to this that will allow you to still remove the engine without cutting the wires is to buy new contacts (or a whole new connector) from Eastern Beaver.
I highly recommend coating the wire with RTV silicone immediately before shrinking the heat shrink in order to absolutely guarantee that no moisture can get in.
An alternative to this that will allow you to still remove the engine without cutting the wires is to buy new contacts (or a whole new connector) from Eastern Beaver.
Mr. Honda ('83 GL1100/Dnepr) summer How a motorcycle evolves thread
The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650EI/VeloUral) winter Never Ending Build (CX500forum)
Click: Colour schematics for all GL1000 & GL1100 and GL1200 standard models plus instructions on how to download the full size version
"A guy with two sidecars can't be all bad." - Cookie
Another guy with two sidecars..... Hmmmm... must be something to that....
The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650EI/VeloUral) winter Never Ending Build (CX500forum)
Click: Colour schematics for all GL1000 & GL1100 and GL1200 standard models plus instructions on how to download the full size version
"A guy with two sidecars can't be all bad." - Cookie
Another guy with two sidecars..... Hmmmm... must be something to that....
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