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This answering your own post stuff is a real timesaver.

Now, does it matter that it operates at 10 degrees cooler than the stock switch?

Probably that helps to compensate for the buildup in the cooling system from all the years. When I flushed my yellow bike block and had the radiator done I dropped 15 degrees if I recall at the center of the radiator.
Just flushing and cleaning an old radiator does not bring it up to the standard of a new block and radiator. Plenty close enough as there is quite a bit of reserve there.
On a standard bike with all exposed equipment and no fairing, operated in a normal manner, the only difference I think you'd see is a tiny bit quicker temp drop and the fan cyling a bit more on a hot day.

Before I started tearing her apart, I think the radiator fan was running, full-time. So, I have a little more digging to do...Don't know if the PO bypassed the switch, or not.

Roady wrote:It took a while but I finally got the bike running again and can finish this thread. I don't think that I'd do it again like this but it works and I'm pleased.

I did some research and got indications that a fan switch from a Geo Metro, 3-cylinder (1.0L) matched the threads and temp rating. I couldn't get one locally so I found the part on RockAuto.com for $8.23 + $6.29 shipping. Click the Part Number Search tab and put in the mfg. and number.



Details:
1994 Geo Metro 1.0L 993cc 61cid L3 TBI
Radiator Fan Temperature Switch. Mfg: Beck/Arnley, Part# 2011614.
(I see they're offering the closeout switches even cheaper now.)

So, here's the Geo switch (on the left) and the stock GL1100 switch.



The Geo switch does not have the long probe that goes into the thermo housing. It also has a different connector. So I fashioned a pigtail from 4 inches of wire and bullet connectors.



I shrink-wrapped it all and stole a black rubber foot off grandpa's cane and here's the finished product.



I couldn't find any specs on what wire is which so I just chose one side to be green and one side to be white/red (I think those were the colors). Then I figured if it didn't work I could switch them.

Amazingly, it works! Fan comes on when it should and all is well.

UPDATE: Though this switch worked I ended up replacing it with an OEM switch (about $80) when I later replaced the water pump and head gaskets.

Thanks Roady! After testing out my existing two switches I've decided I needed a new one. I just placed my order with RockAuto and I must say that they had a GREAT price!

$7.48 + $5.22 SH = $12.70!

Just some FYI this thermo switch with the Honda OEM # is available at Napa Auto parts for only $39.99.That is 1/2 the price from the Honda dealer!!

Guys, looking for an alternative to the thermo switch found the following http://www.industriasrb.com.ar/bulbostemp.html the cost of the switch M18 X 1.5 is 6.5 usd. I will try it soon.

1493 R6/R12/Break h/83 M18 x 1.5 Switch
1494 R12 Breack d/1984 M18 x 1.5 Switch

Greetings

Nice resource. Let us know how it works out.

You never know when something you post will be useful to someone.

The fan switch in my CX650E based winter sidecar machine wasn't working in the spring so I wanted to replace it before I put it on the road for the winter. I remembered reading something about this here so I read through all the threads about fan switches on NGW until I found this:

WingerDave wrote:The fan switch off of a 1980 Honda Civic is the same range and, basically, exactly the same unit BUT..... a smaller thread (2mm smaller).

I dug out my spare good used GoldWing switch and compared it to one of my non-working CX650 switches. They look pretty much the same except the GoldWing one is larger and has 18mm threads while the one from the 650 has 16mm threads.

Bingo!!!!

So I visited my friendly neighbourhood auto parts man (the same one who helped me figure out which heater hose to cut up for my rad hoses and a bunch of other stuff like that over the years). He looked up the Civic switch and the pic looked just like the dead one I had brought to show him so he ordered one for me.

I have in front of me a fan switch from a 650 and a Kemparts #RF3 Rad Fan Switch to fit an '80 Honda Civic.They are, for all intents and purposes, identical. The only difference is that the Honda switch has brown epoxy and has the little plastic rings on the terminals while the Kemparts one has black epoxy.

The biggest difference is that the Kemparts switch only cost me $35 and change (Cdn) as opposed to nearly $75 US for the Honda part (online price, not including shipping). With the dollar difference that works out to about half price.

Note: This confirms that the '80 Civic switch will not fit a GoldWing.

Kit: Did you buy the '76 Civic switch? Is it the same as the '80 Civic switch or will it fit a GoldWing?

Thanks Roady I did the geo metro fan switch and i am pleased with the results. The dealer wants $100.00 here in New Jersey.

I'm glad to hear that it worked out for you.

Sure is a money saver!

I know this is an old thread,but, I found something on my 84 standard that I didn't know was there...likely most of you guys do though.
Mine has a "new" wire and fuse coming out of the headlight assembly, it goes to a switch on the handelbar centre cover then to the fan relay or rather the temp switch.
I've come to know this (from posts here) as a "parade switch"...however, I think the previous owner did this because the fan wouldn't come on without it.

By accident while cleaning I found a 10A glass type fuse (blown) tucked right in beside the fuel tank at the left frame, it's right above the stator & pulse gen connecters. Actually there is a sticker on the frame that says "fan motor" or something like that. I'm pretty sure the PO didn't see this and thats why the extra wiring and fuse is there.
I haven't removed this extra wire/fuse yet, I want to see if the fan will kick in now that the glass fuse is replaced. If it does work, then I will replace it with a new type blade fuse; The glass one was a P.I.T.A to replace because it has one of those stupid loose ends and a plastic snap cover on it. The wires are short in that spot and it's damn near impossible to hold the two ends and snap the cover together. Anyway, there you have it...maybe one or two others don't know about this fuse....now they do!

That's good info to have.

That fuse must be a 1200 unique item.

OK, I'll run out to the shop and take a couple of pics; Easier to see than to explain...

This should be a bit easier; if I can get the pics in here! One is the "new" wire/fuse by PO, the other is the fuse holder, as you can see..a royal pain to work with. It is a bit further back than I remember
This is the one I'll be replacing with a blade type fuse w/cover.