Polishing Aluminum
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- Alley Kat
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- Rusty Probie
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Polishing and Clear coat
I polished my timing belt covers about 10 years ago and put a clear coat on them without knowing how it would work. I allowed them to sit for about a week and waxed them before putting them back on. The clear coat has done fine. I am not sure what brand it was, but I bought it at an auto parts store where Krylon lacquer was sold (which I used to repaint the rear half of the frame). I don't recall the clear coat being Krylon.
babyproofer
- AZCycle73
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I think clearcoat is the way to go for long-term shine. I've had good luck with wax but I would recommend an acrylic polymer rather than a wax. Stay away from ANY wax that has Carnuba in it. Carnuba wax is fantastic for show cars that are covered/garaged 90% of the time, but it has a tendency to yellow over it's VERY short lifespan.
On my 65 Mustang (and everything else) I use Meguiar's #20 Synthetic Polymer Sealant. It's a blend of more traditional waxes, acrylic polymers, very light buffing compounds, and fillers to help fill in small inconsistencies.
http://www.meguiars.com/?pro-liquid-car ... er-Sealant
It goes on easy, wipes of easy and lasts quite a while. I don't know how long it will last on engine parts that heat up but I suspect it would last longer than traditional wax.
Great write-up! Unfortunately, I don't have any buffing wheels... I gotta do all mine with elbow grease, lots of cursing, and beer.
On my 65 Mustang (and everything else) I use Meguiar's #20 Synthetic Polymer Sealant. It's a blend of more traditional waxes, acrylic polymers, very light buffing compounds, and fillers to help fill in small inconsistencies.
http://www.meguiars.com/?pro-liquid-car ... er-Sealant
It goes on easy, wipes of easy and lasts quite a while. I don't know how long it will last on engine parts that heat up but I suspect it would last longer than traditional wax.
Great write-up! Unfortunately, I don't have any buffing wheels... I gotta do all mine with elbow grease, lots of cursing, and beer.
1976 GL1000 - in progress - 70,000 miles - Originally Sulfur Yellow
- sunnbobb
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Good article!
After the white rouge, one can go the "NASA" step and use India Ink for a true mirror finish.
As for protecting and renewal, I am addicted to FLITZ polish. You can order in online. It leaves a protective coating on the finished piece.
After the white rouge, one can go the "NASA" step and use India Ink for a true mirror finish.
As for protecting and renewal, I am addicted to FLITZ polish. You can order in online. It leaves a protective coating on the finished piece.
I found the end of the internet
---- Bradshaw Bikes custom polishing for your wing. Visit us on facebook!
1978 Learning Experience
1980 County Road Hauler "Brain Damage"
1978 Cafe Custom Gl1000 "Vyper"
1977 Bulldog Inspired "Vaincre"
1981 Street Fighter GL1100 "No Quarter"
1983 Supercharged Street Drag "Anubis" (in worx)
1983 gl1100 mint restoration "Kristen"
1985 Aspencade..pondering.
---- Bradshaw Bikes custom polishing for your wing. Visit us on facebook!
1978 Learning Experience
1980 County Road Hauler "Brain Damage"
1978 Cafe Custom Gl1000 "Vyper"
1977 Bulldog Inspired "Vaincre"
1981 Street Fighter GL1100 "No Quarter"
1983 Supercharged Street Drag "Anubis" (in worx)
1983 gl1100 mint restoration "Kristen"
1985 Aspencade..pondering.
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- Tin Member
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polishing
For plastic put them in a dishwasher first,dont tell the wife.
Then you can use toothpaste as it is lightly abrasive.
cheers Bob
Then you can use toothpaste as it is lightly abrasive.
cheers Bob
Bobby c
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One may even try Mother's Aluminum polish on the plastic also. ANY glossy plastic can benefit. This is if you don't want to wet sand and finish polishing them off. You can also use the bench polisher with a very careful hand and the white rouge. Very careful. Mother's is easier.
The clear mentioned above from Eastwood is Diamond Clear. Dulls slightly, and not recommended where gas may drip (it will yellow badly.)
I used to do the wet sand polish into the bench grinder afterward, but these days it is quicker to run through it with a jute wheel with rouge to take off all the old clear and oxidation, burning through the rest of the wheels and finer rouges quickly. Polishing goes quickly with some practice.
I'm not a professional. I just love polishing old Hondas. Lots of CB's and two GL's have given me a little practice.
Just my .02.
The clear mentioned above from Eastwood is Diamond Clear. Dulls slightly, and not recommended where gas may drip (it will yellow badly.)
I used to do the wet sand polish into the bench grinder afterward, but these days it is quicker to run through it with a jute wheel with rouge to take off all the old clear and oxidation, burning through the rest of the wheels and finer rouges quickly. Polishing goes quickly with some practice.
I'm not a professional. I just love polishing old Hondas. Lots of CB's and two GL's have given me a little practice.
Just my .02.
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Re: Polishing Aluminum
I've just been reading this thread. Where actually is Bryan's item on polishing as there is no link within his first post yet people are complimenting him on it.
My own experience of aluminium (two I's ) is that I use a bench grinder with three grades of circular mops, each is used with a particular 'courseness' of polishing wax. The three waxes are brown, blue and white in colour. It still takes me quite a while as I get (sort of) skidmarks of wax and am never too sure of whether or not I have applied too much or too little of the stuff. I eventually get there and finish with hand applied Solvo Autosol. My timing belt covers look pretty good, even if I do say so myself, but other than regular polishing, I haven't clear coated nor waxed them. I've never heard of waxing polished aluminium. I have noticed the aluminium on the GW does oxidise pretty quickly.
My own experience of aluminium (two I's ) is that I use a bench grinder with three grades of circular mops, each is used with a particular 'courseness' of polishing wax. The three waxes are brown, blue and white in colour. It still takes me quite a while as I get (sort of) skidmarks of wax and am never too sure of whether or not I have applied too much or too little of the stuff. I eventually get there and finish with hand applied Solvo Autosol. My timing belt covers look pretty good, even if I do say so myself, but other than regular polishing, I haven't clear coated nor waxed them. I've never heard of waxing polished aluminium. I have noticed the aluminium on the GW does oxidise pretty quickly.
Present bikes -
BMW R100/7
1989 BMW R100GS-Paris Dakar
MZ ETZ250 Trials
1977 Honda GL1000 GoldWing
BMW R100/7
1989 BMW R100GS-Paris Dakar
MZ ETZ250 Trials
1977 Honda GL1000 GoldWing
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- Rusty Probie
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Re: Polishing Aluminum
I polished all my engine parts with a Grizzly 3 stage buffer, got them down to a nice shine then found White Diamond polish, the guys at the boat dock told me about that.. They use it on the boats in Bull shoals lake, and the trick to it is let it sit for 2 or 3 mins. after polishing the item, the buff it off with a microfiber towel.. Works great and has a coating to it to keep it luster. Wal Mart sells it 15.00 a bottle.. and have to shake it up all the time but it works great..
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