Rusty Tank Problem?

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Cookie
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Post #16 by Cookie » Thu Aug 27, 2009 4:39 pm

Have you considered cleaning the tank in place with electrolsis or one of those acid type tank cleaners? I may do that on my next one to try it.
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Owner of 4.4 76s and one lone 75 Wings (does a spare engine make .2?)

DamianBarna
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in place cleaning

Post #17 by DamianBarna » Thu Aug 27, 2009 4:56 pm

No I haven't what have you heard? Please drop a note.

thanks,

Damian
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Post #18 by starket » Thu Aug 27, 2009 6:22 pm

I have been using electrolysis on my installed tank on my 76 project. Rust was pretty thick. I would guess I have had a bolt suspended in the tank for 4 weeks total time and I am almost done. Not the fastest process but I have lots of time. Haven't got lots of current flowing like I did when I cleaned parts in the bucket and I have been using the same battery charger. I will keep working on it till it is clean. Not doing much work on the 76 since I am spending a lot of my time riding the 75.
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Post #19 by Cookie » Thu Aug 27, 2009 6:46 pm

Folks have used several methods without taking the tank off. As mentioned you can go the electric route or several types of cleaners have been used.
http://www.rusteco.com/
Enjoy life,
Cookie


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Owner of 4.4 76s and one lone 75 Wings (does a spare engine make .2?)

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Post #20 by DamianBarna » Thu Aug 27, 2009 7:39 pm

What product suits the Calcium requirements of the electrolytic process. My rust is so minimal I feel like not messing with anything. It took a whole week before I convinced myself to remove the octopus like compressor attached like an alien parasite to my air box and tank lid. I really would rather put off removing the wheel and final drive.

Thanks for all the great ideas and support.

Damian
Damian

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Post #21 by starket » Thu Aug 27, 2009 9:10 pm

Arm and Hammer Washing Soda. Available at most grocery stores in the detergent section.
Steve Tarket
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1976 GL1000 - Jigsaw +
Proud Member of the NGW Cartel

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Worked great!

Post #22 by DamianBarna » Sun Sep 13, 2009 6:32 pm

The tank looks spotless not that I cleaned it in place with the arm and hammer. Now I want to clean it and put it back in service. How do I remove the fuel gauge for cleaning and to provide access to the tank so I can get a wet n dry vac in there to suck out the water after rinsing and before the naptha and alchohol.

BTW I rebuilt the calipers both front and rear and installed new shoes as well. I can hardly wait to clean the tank and run the bike.

No new job yet but I am still hopeful.

Thanks,

Damian
Damian

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Dannyj29Texas
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Rusty Tank Problem?

Post #23 by Dannyj29Texas » Wed Sep 16, 2009 11:47 am

Would It hurt to go ahead and coat the tank anyway? Seems like a lot of trouble to go through and not complete the job.
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Post #24 by Cookie » Wed Sep 16, 2009 11:56 am

The senders just remove by unplugging the wires and tapping the outer rim to release.
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Owner of 4.4 76s and one lone 75 Wings (does a spare engine make .2?)

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Post #25 by Roady » Wed Sep 16, 2009 12:07 pm

I did not coat mine two years ago.

Just fill it with fresh gas, a little MMO or Seafoam once in a while, ride the heck out of it.

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Removed fuel level sensor

Post #26 by DamianBarna » Wed Sep 16, 2009 8:00 pm

I seemed to have a bit more to go in the reserve tank so I set it up again to electro that area.

I will post a video once I get it started with fresh fuel. Then you guys can help me figure out what the smoke is or was.

I can hardly wait to see if my brake job is ok. I'll try them in the driveway before riding anywhere. Had to clean out the brake lines with a guitar string. Yuk!

Since it has been sitting for 7 years I am praying that the rings wear back in. She smoked like a bitch before the carbs were done. Then in the shop when the dealer started it it smoked 90% less. He used fuel from an IV bottle not the rusty tank.

Thanks guys for all your help.

Damian NJ
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Post #27 by deals gap dragon slayer » Thu Sep 24, 2009 2:09 pm

dumb question... When doing this for other parts that have some light surface rust, is it necessary to remove any rubber pieces? IE, kick starter, shifter, etc... just wondering if its as simple as i'm making it sound in my head.

Mix soulution, immerse part in solution with - terminal hooked to part, and positive terminal hooked to annode bolt.... Have a few beers and wait...sleep, buy more beer, wait some more... Then presto chango part looks good?
Damien
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Wear your gear! I'd rather sweat than bleed!

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Post #28 by starket » Thu Sep 24, 2009 2:23 pm

Go Here about half way down the page.
http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic. ... p&start=30
Paul did not remove the rubber. When I did mine, I left the rubber on for cleaning and then removed the cast parts after cleaning for paint.
Steve Tarket
1975 GL1000 Restoration
1976 GL1000 LTD
1976 GL1000 - Jigsaw +
Proud Member of the NGW Cartel

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Post #29 by deals gap dragon slayer » Thu Sep 24, 2009 2:50 pm

awesome. I'll definitely use this method on my gague housings, pegs, and other various bits. Thanks for the link Steve...my cell phone is my only internet and browsing forums is beyond a pain looking for things
Damien

Winner: 1994 GWRRA Spring Fling, Youngest Rider



Wear your gear! I'd rather sweat than bleed!

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It started

Post #30 by DamianBarna » Sat Sep 26, 2009 1:46 pm

:-D The bike started with the de-rusted tank. Yea! Now I noticed a few drips of antifreeze dripping out of the weep hole on the bottom of the pump housing. Fudge!

Any Ideas on how long before it gets worse? I can't resist taking it for a ride as soon as I register it next week. I got the insurance friday.

What is the next stage for this drip drip from the hole? Any ideas on if I can make it worse?

thanks,
Damian
Damian


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