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thats what i did ,bought one of those blade fuse holders,but there was also a positive cable besides ,do i run both or run everything through the fuse?

You just connect the fuse holder to the screws that originally held the fuse. Don't change anything else.

Thanks I was wondering what to do there is looked kind of not dependable. I pick the in line fuse to convert today. And install

Wiskerfish-

Did the inline fuse thing. On your diagram I only see one wire going from the fuse (yellow) to what I assume is the ignition switch. What did you do with the other red wire that came off the plastic connector of the ignition switch (there was one red, one red/white) Did you splice them together and run it to the fuse, the the fuse to the relay?

There should only be one wire to each side of the fuse. I am not sure what you are asking.

On the Starter Solenoid 3 wires hook up together on one terminal. They are the big hot wire from the positive side of the Battery, The Fused hot wire that goes to the ignition switch and an unfused hot wire that goes to the rectifier.

If you cut out the sub wire assembly at the white connector (to the harness), and replace the fuse holder with a blade type, then what do you do with the other wire that comes off the white connector and bypasses the fuse? On Honda diagrams it looks like it joins the "fuse" wire at a ring terminal that attaches to the starter relay.

mryellow wrote:If you cut out the sub wire assembly at the white connector (to the harness), and replace the fuse holder with a blade type, then what do you do with the other wire that comes off the white connector and bypasses the fuse? On Honda diagrams it looks like it joins the "fuse" wire at a ring terminal that attaches to the starter relay.

Yes there is a second wire that mounts to the top of the solenoid. That is the wire from the rectifier and when the bike is running it charges the battery and runs the bike's systems. I connected mine to the down stream side of the fuse. I do not know why Honda did not fuse that wire.

Whiskerfish wrote: Yes there is a second wire that mounts to the top of the solenoid. That is the wire from the rectifier and when the bike is running it charges the battery and runs the bike's systems. I connected mine to the down stream side of the fuse. I do not know why Honda did not fuse that wire.

I've wondered about that, too. I can only guess that they didn't want a fused line in the critical charge path. A problem on that line (high current short) will quickly destroy the rectifier.

Thanks for all the info. Should I use 12 awg to extend both the fused and the unfused wires? I may just rebuild the whole assembly from the location of the removed white connector (melted) to the starter relay.

Thanks again.

I can not remember the size but it is substantial. Do not go smaller. Yea I think I usually just eliminate that connector all together.

Whiskerfish wrote:I can not remember the size but it is substantial. Do not go smaller. Yea I think I usually just eliminate that connector all together.

Did this recently. I even bought some connectors, but ended up not using them. As WF suggests, I just joined the wires together.

I had a bit of a mess myself before addressing it. Although the dogbone had already been replaced, there were multiple splices and questionable wiring. It got hot. Still not perfect, but way better. I'll perfect it some day...

Did this recently. I even bought some connectors, but ended up not using them. As WF suggests, I just joined the wires together.

Looks nice. That's what I'd like to do with mine. Do you know what awg wire you used? I'm on the fence between 12 and 14. It seems that it's easier to find quick connects in the 14 awg range.

mryellow wrote:

Did this recently. I even bought some connectors, but ended up not using them. As WF suggests, I just joined the wires together.

Looks nice. That's what I'd like to do with mine. Do you know what awg wire you used? I'm on the fence between 12 and 14. It seems that it's easier to find quick connects in the 14 awg range.

This is a case where bigger is definitely better. Go with 12 AWG. (Technically, a 30A circuit should use 10, but steady state current draw is nowhere near 30. Or shouldn't be). Factory used 12.

desertrefugee wrote:
This is a case where bigger is definitely better. Go with 12 AWG. (Technically, a 30A circuit should use 10, but steady state current draw is nowhere near 30. Or shouldn't be). Factory used 12.

And did you combine the fused and unfused wire on a single ring terminal for the starter relay, or did you use a ring terminal for each wire to connect to the starter relay?

Electrically, mine is the same now as it was when it left the factory. The only exception is that now there is fresh wiring and a 30A blade fuse in line where the dogbone used to be. (The charge side wire is still unfused).

I would recommend this. I don't know how much more Current the charge line adds, but I know it's not intended to be combined the entire bike supply (the original fused wire supplies EVERYTHING) and still be on a 30 amp fuse.