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Well here i go again!!! .. 75 frame with a 76 motor and carbs, mostly all there in very poor condition. Motor wont turn over (2 plugs missing?? ) with kick start lever.. Frame and compliance plate match (good here for our rego requirements) Unlicenced which is not really a big deal here....



I will need to park this up for a while to finish off other incomplete projects so i might fill jugs and crankcase with diesel ??????? or what ever is recommended by the masses for a few weeks to loosen up its seizure... I will eventually pull heads off at least to inspect the bores that have most likely rusted. But would be nice to spin it up to do mandatory basic pressure checks before pulling heads off... So is there any cheap lube that will penetrate more effectivley than diesel??

Some folks use Marvel Mystery Oil, some use an ATF/acetone mix

Thanks for that GC but have never seem MMO here in Aust... I couldnt help myself today and removed carb bank for a look and though it looks OK it will require Ranndaktion... also i stripped "stuff off" all over the place then backed off the valve adjustment and filled C/Case with diesel and turps 50/50.. Hoisted it to the rafters by the rear wheel to soak "jug n stuff"... Cos, Im not sure about soaking clutch plates just yet although they will be removed for a look later ....

I intend to leave the rear wheel attached to use as a lever for rotation of the motor when it/if initially frees up...

I going to write this for the umpteenth time hoping someone else tries this. Several years back someone posted taking 2 gallons old motor oil, heating it to 350 degrees , and pouring it into the motor, as much as it would hold. They said it freed up right away. You'd be using the uneven heating of the aluminum Pistons and steel liners to loosen everything up.

That's a great tip. Never would have thought of it.

ericheath wrote:I going to write this for the umpteenth time hoping someone else tries this. Several years back someone posted taking 2 gallons old motor oil, heating it to 350 degrees , and pouring it into the motor, as much as it would hold. They said it freed up right away. You'd be using the uneven heating of the aluminum Pistons and steel liners to loosen everything up.

The aluminum would expand more than the steel sleeve. It usually isn't the piston that sticks to the sleeve. It is the rings. Steel against steel.

I decided to take the heads off even with no movement yet.. 3 of the bores looked in OK condition but the 4th is completely beyond repair due to rust.. Very deep pitting and i would think it needs a liner at least.........

Therefore my questions are is there liners/sleeve available for a gl1000????... Has anybody had liner/s fitted to the 1000??? Is it a dooooable cost effective repair... ..

What is the max limit for boring these blocks????... i think the pits will be deeper than .030 deep for a .060 over size piston that i dont know if is available....

Im not sure which way, or what to do just yet.. . Any advice on options would be appreciated....

I think you may be out of luck....I don't recall any liners, and 60 over is probably going to interfere with internals.

I could be wrong though!

it is not clear to me what is bad about a couple teensy pits in my cylinder walls?

fish wrote:it is not clear to me what is bad about a couple teensy pits in my cylinder walls?

Pits hahaha.. The bottom half looks like a gravel driveway.with potholes...

OK gravel driveway....
still my question is..... why is pits bad?
I can understand why a groove or ring of rust all the way around is bad.. it would trip the rings everytime the piston went up and down and break them eventually
It seems to me that a smooth honed cylinder wall with a few pits would be just fine
I am not an expert at all.. I am just trying to learn.

In some regards, fish is right. It all depends on the severity. I'm sure there are numerous examples of good running engines that have significant pitting in one or more cylinders. In the long run, one would assume that the offending cylinder and rings would wear faster, have lower compression, and contribute to increased oil consumption. I would venture to say that nearly any engine that has sat for an extended period of time without being properly 'pickled' would show some signs of pitting/rust. The real question is how much time and money one wishes to invest in a possible problem engine.

I probably dont need to say much more...

That'll buff right out!

That is kind of ugly...

OK that is pretty bad.
If the cylinder walls look like that I would wonder about the rest of the internals.
buy a different motor.