Points / ignition timing

[octane]

(Moved this in bits and pieces from another thread,
so it's a bit dis-organized.
I'll clean it up and expand it later:)


First set the points gap......then the ignition timing.





So first thing to do is adjust the points gap to 0.3-0.4 mm
using a feeler gauge.
(well actually: as close to 0.4mm as possible,
The explanation for this is here)

When the gap is correct you can feel just the slightest resistance
moving the feeler between the points.
Recheck by inserting feeler
one size OVER (to feel if it's "tight")
and
one size UNDER (to feel absolutely no resistance).

Note that the cam has to be at
maximum lift /highest point of cam lobe/points fully open
when adjusting.





THEN it's time to bring out the 'static light'
to adjust the ignition TIMING





Please note that you have to do things in the above order!
IF you change the points gap
you will thereby move the ignition timing.




Note that there's two ways of setting the timing:
parallel or in series








You have TWO sets of points,( each feeding two spark-plugs)

You need to do TWO point-adjustments
and then
TWO ignition timings !!!!!!!
(they are on separate 'plates' and have separate sets of locking screws)

...................................................................................




Make sure that the cam is at it's highest point

Looking at the system, see where the point of the pen
...er...points:




viewed close up:



THAT is the highest point of the cam


Now turn the engine (using the generator bolt)
until that highest point for that set of
ignition point , is right 'under' the tap/"arm" that moves the
ignition point:



you are now ready to adjust the RIGHT points gap.

THEN rotate the engine till you have the 'high point'
"under" the LEFT tap/"arm".
Adjust LEFT side points.


THEN you do the ignition TIMING for
both sets as described in the pics above
or better till:
use the split-timing technique as per Randakk.



PS.:

IGNITION TIMING:

IF you have problems adjusting the
right side sub-plate/points set for cyl. 3 and 4
and you just can't move the plate enough to
get the adjustment right,

it could be that the fiber-"arm" on your points
are worn down too far.
Check this link: Worn down 'tabs'

[jemaguy]

what a great deal on this ..i did this myself and was easy to do with this article...i used the CB 450 points randakk suggested them
the part number for the left is 30204-292-154 the right is 30203-292-154
BLACK BOMBER points....

[schmidtap2000]

Okay, I'm really confused now, it seems to me that most of this is contradicting it's self. on the way the marks are set up, I'm unsure as to what to use for timing.

Here's the way I see it in the timing Plug opening, It's the same for 2 also.

-T-

-F-

1

What one would I use to set the timing, the F or T

A good Pic by Pic walk thru would be great.

THX
Andrew

[octane]

Hi !
Welcome to the forum Andrew!

Okay, I'm really confused now, it seems to me that most of this is contradicting it's self. on the way the marks are set up, I'm unsure as to what to use for timing.

Here's the way I see it in the timing Plug opening, It's the same for 2 also.

-T-

-F-

1

...and you have (180 degree turned)
-T-

-F-

2

What one would I use to set the timing, the F or T

The F 1 (for cyl 1 / 2)
and
the F 2 (for cyl 3 / 4)

Check again the above show page:




I do see now how my first post is a bit confusing.
Gotta clear that up.

For better pictures,
but slightly different set-up of wires etc.
(as it's for the Dyna set-up)
check this thread

Dyna ignition timing

..but only to watch better pictures of the F marks etc

[schmidtap2000]

Thanks Octane, I'll give it a try again tonight after work.

[octane]

You're welcome!

[boogie red]

Octane.....I dig it! Does u have a brother named tetraethel lead? YEE HAW
I used a dwell meter.pulled all the fireing pins out so the motor would spin free,filed points, replaced all the wor out screws with button head allens, spun the motor with the starter,tryed to set dwell at 42.50
When I got her runnin the dwell fluctuated 40-43 deg,that set of points may be little pitted,however she run real smooth.
aet the plate for a slip, advenced it till she ran rough and then backed it off till smooth and then still backed up prob 2 deg. any way I made a post in the tutoriels section, this thing has got some issues. If u would read it that would be great,thanks.

run em to the peg!
By the way, are u 100 low lead, ( av gas ) or 110 or may 117 VP? Ye haw

[curtis.71]

ok let make sure this is right,static light on left point for 1 and 2,static light hooked up to 3 and 4 for the right

[Whiskerfish]

ok let make sure this is right,static light on left point for 1 and 2,static light hooked up to 3 and 4 for the right

Correct

[RecklessTim]

I have followed everything to a T. My question comes with the split-timing.
My gap is .4mm (the high side like Randakk's tips)
The test light comes on exactly at the F (1&2 and 3&4)
So far so good.

Here's my problem, the light should shut off at 180 degrees at the next F mark (actually just past the mark)
Randall says in his tips "AND they should not CLOSE until AFTER the F mark"
But my light goes out almost 225 degrees after they come on, that's 45 degrees after the following F mark.

Does this pose a problem?
Should I close the point gap and retime to get it closer to the second F mark?
Or is that fine, just leave it the way it is?

[Whiskerfish]

Try it again but put a slip of paper in-between the contacts of the point set you are not checking. Using a lite instead of a meter can be deceptive. With a meter you can see the voltage drop but it will not go to zero until the other set of points opens.