Rectifier Regulator Replacement FH 0012aa

[rcmatt007]

The wiring was not really clear to me. it sounds like one plug has three connections for the three yellow wires... okay, got that. the other plug. did the red wire with the fuse from the kit hook up to it and then just over to the hot battery post? or to what? also, the OEM has ground/green wires... something hook up there?

did it have a wiring diagram you might put up?

[kb0ou]

Old Fogey,
Hey, you are fine, I was just posting all that stuff when you replied, I edited the first post after you posted..

Shieldsm,
1) What should I do with the black wire that came of the regulator? Just cap it off?

The black wire on the regulator is switched 12 volts off the ignition switch, I am going to use it.

2) I also have 2 red/white wires that went to the old rectifier, and the other end (one wire that ended up at the starter solinoid. So you just capped those off as well? Why connect the other end to the starter solinoid?

Those wire used to feed charge voltage to the battery by way of hookup at the selinoid, not needed if you run charge directly to the battery.

3) I have 3 to 4 green wires that went to the old rectifier. Should I connect all these to a ground or just cap them off?

Green wires are ground, don't worry about them or tie them to ground.

4) As far as the in line fuse, this can be used instead of the old fuse setup?

The new fuse is just to protect the new Rectifier/Regulator, the old inline still need s to be there

John......

[kb0ou]

Rcmatt,
Very simple, 3 yellow wire from stator to one plug, the other plug has 2 wires, black to negative post on Battery, Red wire to Positive post on Battery. That is it.
The kit comes with good instructions.

John kb0ou...................

By the way, I have nothing to do with any of the distributors of these kits, one is located in Joplin on the West side.
I did not know that until I ordered mine!!
If I had know I maybe could have gone to them and save shipping.... Oh Well........

[kb0ou]

Here is a simple diagram, the 3 black wires from the stator are yellow..........




John kb0ou...............

[robin1731]

That looks pretty simple. Keep us updated on the performance.

[rcmatt007]

that is what I thought you were describing.... but I am pretty visual so that really helps. Thanks

[Sagebrush]

That's something Whiskerfish might be interested in as he's always complaining about his battery not being charged when in stop and go Norfolk traffic even with his po-boy alternator setup.

[taunusrainer]

[gregforesi]

+1 on this setup. The voltage is really stable and the unit does charge my 1000 at idle (I have LED rear tail lights). Nice upgrade.
I believe these are the regulators used in the Honda CBRR's and Yamaha sportbikes.

If you can find one - the 30 amp unit (FH008A) is physically smaller.

Nice job John. I may re-visit my mount and stick it on the battery box.

[badorderbob]

Please forgive my electrical knowledge but doesn't the ole Rectifer Reg. give off heat ( is that the wasted voltage) ? Does this new system do the same? By the way nice upgrade!!! Bob

[rcmatt007]

heat is a by product (actually from resistance), so I guess it is wasted voltage in that sense. and one would expect newer compnents to generate less heat. Even the new unit has a thick metal casing with fins, which is, in effect, a heat sink.

If you think about it, tubes (like when I was a kid) put out LOTS of heat, transitors still put our heat, but not nearly as much, integrated circuits and finally micro chips do loads more work and still put out heat, but the ratio of work to heat is way, way less

[Toehead]

Yes,

The old regulators basically divert the excess energy to ground. This energy is wasted as heat throughout the system.

IIRC The new style uses pulse width modulation control and MOSFETS to basically disconnect and reconnect the stator to load at varying intervals. By varying the amount of time the stator is connected to load, the voltage can be effectively controlled.

EDIT- That is actually incorrect. I looked it up, and this unit still does shunt to ground, but the MOSFET is much more efficient than the old thyristor switches and produces less heat.

I wonder if you could develop a switching series regulator that does not shunt, or if the transient voltage spikes would short out the stator. hmmmmmmmm

[rcmatt007]

sort of like that old wasted spark.... or was it the old wasted hippy, I can never remember

[Toehead]

I could try to make one. In theory it wouldn't be too hard; I am just worried about the stator life. If you run the stator with no load, does the no load voltage get high enough that it bridges the insulation?

Edit:

These fellas seem to have a series model for a permanent magnet system.
http://www.shopmotorcycleonlinestore.co ... d=10702245

[lcallison]

Don't most of the poor-boy setups have a single line off the alternator that connect directly to the battery? I don't believe they have the old regulator/rectifier circuit active, do they? Most of your modern alternators have the rectifier/regulator circuits built in. That's one of the nice things about going with the poor boy.

Nice job John! That is a tempting setup. If I ever have to replace my regulator, I think I'll go that route.