'79 GL1000 transmission cover screw removal question

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ritalz
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Re: '79 GL1000 transmission cover screw removal question

#16

Post by ritalz »

I've heard of some use a piece of rubber band under the bit. Similar results.
Al

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Sidecar Bob
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Re: '79 GL1000 transmission cover screw removal question

#17

Post by Sidecar Bob »

I agree with Eddie about using the M6 with 8mm head screws. After having to dig debris out of countless allen head screws on the machines I used to run (& set up & repair) at work before I could get the wrenches into them I have very little use for them.
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Lucien Harpress
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Re: '79 GL1000 transmission cover screw removal question

#18

Post by Lucien Harpress »

If nothing else, I would just recommend a cordless impact driver in general.

Between the JIS screws on my GL1000, CB750 and CT90, my Dewalt has paid for itself many times over.

Best of luck!
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Re: '79 GL1000 transmission cover screw removal question

#19

Post by Shadowjack »

To me, the (pretty obvious) reason Honda changed from 6mm cross-head screws to hex-head was because of the difficulty of getting them out, requiring (in the old days) the application of a hammer and chisel, or procurement of an "exotic" tool like an impact driver. The reason they changed from 10mm heads to 8mm was to indicate to the ham-hand amateur that the tightening torque was low. And the reason the screws themselves are made of cheese-like steel is in the hope that said ham-hand amateur would twist the head off the screw before pulling the threads out of the case.
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Re: '79 GL1000 transmission cover screw removal question

#20

Post by pidjones »

Shadowjack wrote: Fri Aug 27, 2021 8:07 am To me, the (pretty obvious) reason Honda changed from 6mm cross-head screws to hex-head was because of the difficulty of getting them out, requiring (in the old days) the application of a hammer and chisel, or procurement of an "exotic" tool like an impact driver. The reason they changed from 10mm heads to 8mm was to indicate to the ham-hand amateur that the tightening torque was low. And the reason the screws themselves are made of cheese-like steel is in the hope that said ham-hand amateur would twist the head off the screw before pulling the threads out of the case.
To me, it is obvious that it was for speed and cost of manufacturing within necessary strength tolerances. Honda could care less about amateur mechanics beyond what can be done with the included tool kit (which was removed from '06+ 'wings).
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Sidecar Bob
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Re: '79 GL1000 transmission cover screw removal question

#21

Post by Sidecar Bob »

Hex heads are easier to torque properly but 10mm heads wouldn't fit the recesses in the engine cases that were originally intended for the JIS heads so they used 8mm heads that would fit. The steel that they are made of is perfectly adequate for the specified torque. They break because clueless idiots think they need to lean on the too-long-for-the-wrench-size handle that came in their socket set.
Mr. Honda ('83 GL1100/Dnepr) summer New Engine Thread
The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650EI/VeloUral) winter Never Ending Build (CX500forum)
Click: Colour schematics for all GL1000 & GL1100 and GL1200 standard models plus instructions on how to download the full size version
"A guy with two sidecars can't be all bad." - Cookie
Another guy with two sidecars..... Hmmmm... must be something to that....
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Re: '79 GL1000 transmission cover screw removal question

#22

Post by yawjansen »

Hey all, all good info and real helpful! The Vessel JIS impact screwdrivers did the trick! Even the top line ones at an angle, no prob!
Next issue, separating the cover from the engine. I've tried a couple different moves trying to NOT insert a screwdriver in the grove an prying. Any suggestions?
Thanks
Pat
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Re: '79 GL1000 transmission cover screw removal question

#23

Post by ritalz »

I suggest you go back and verify that ALL the screws are out. It's real easy to miss one and a broken cover will ruin your day. The cover could be stuck like you think but it don't hurt to look.
Al

1975 Goldwing 'Max'
1976 Goldwing 'Grocery Getter' Sold
1985 Goldwing Interstate 'NCC-1985' sold
2003 Goldwing New To Me 1800
1981 Silverwing Sold
1982 Goldeing Project Sold
1981 Goldwing Parted Out
1983 Goldwing New Project
1973 CB500F Long Gone
1966 CL77 First Street Bike
http://www.ngwclub.com/gallery3/index.p ... ans/ritalz
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Re: '79 GL1000 transmission cover screw removal question

#24

Post by Sidecar Bob »

Yep. Once you are absolutely sure they are all out give it a few raps with a soft faced hammer to break the seal. If you don't have a soft faced hammer hold a piece of wood with one end against the cover and hit the other end with a regular hammer.

You may find that the dowel pins are corroded in and you have to pry. If you do look for a place where you can pry without touching the mating surfaces.
Mr. Honda ('83 GL1100/Dnepr) summer New Engine Thread
The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650EI/VeloUral) winter Never Ending Build (CX500forum)
Click: Colour schematics for all GL1000 & GL1100 and GL1200 standard models plus instructions on how to download the full size version
"A guy with two sidecars can't be all bad." - Cookie
Another guy with two sidecars..... Hmmmm... must be something to that....
yawjansen
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Re: '79 GL1000 transmission cover screw removal question

#25

Post by yawjansen »

Just double checked, 9 screws all out. I've tried the hammering on wood method as well as tapping the two flanges on the bottom of the cover. No luck so far. I'll keep at it in the morning. Correct me if I'm wrong, no gasket is needed for reassembly?
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Re: '79 GL1000 transmission cover screw removal question

#26

Post by robin1731 »

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1976 Goldwing Super Sport
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and a rotation of various purchases
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Re: '79 GL1000 transmission cover screw removal question

#27

Post by Sidecar Bob »

It definitely needs a gasket and the gasket needs to be the correct thickness or you may have problems with clearances in there.
Mr. Honda ('83 GL1100/Dnepr) summer New Engine Thread
The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650EI/VeloUral) winter Never Ending Build (CX500forum)
Click: Colour schematics for all GL1000 & GL1100 and GL1200 standard models plus instructions on how to download the full size version
"A guy with two sidecars can't be all bad." - Cookie
Another guy with two sidecars..... Hmmmm... must be something to that....
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Re: '79 GL1000 transmission cover screw removal question

#28

Post by Figor »

Frequency’s are your friends. I like to use a pneumatic engraver on stuck parts. The vibrating frequency will help break up stubborn parts that have corroded together. If I’m using it on a surface I don’t want to damage I usually put a piece of soft metal in between the stylus and the part. Pennies are useful or some thin brass. I always have good luck with this method. Maybe pour some Kroil or similar penetrating fluid on the top mating surface. The frequency’s will help the fluid penetrate. Best of luck.
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Sidecar Bob
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Re: '79 GL1000 transmission cover screw removal question

#29

Post by Sidecar Bob »

The instructions on Liquid Wrench tell you to apply it and then tap the fastener with a wrench or other tool to set up a vibration that will help work the penetrant in between the parts, Sort of your idea on a lesser level...
Mr. Honda ('83 GL1100/Dnepr) summer New Engine Thread
The Famous Eccles ('84 CX650EI/VeloUral) winter Never Ending Build (CX500forum)
Click: Colour schematics for all GL1000 & GL1100 and GL1200 standard models plus instructions on how to download the full size version
"A guy with two sidecars can't be all bad." - Cookie
Another guy with two sidecars..... Hmmmm... must be something to that....
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Re: '79 GL1000 transmission cover screw removal question

#30

Post by Dr. Frankenstein »

And IF you can find them, these are good to have too - a set of long JIS impact driver bits; these are out of Australia - I got my set on Amazon, but Amazon now says they are Unavailable; hard to find in the U.S.:

https://rhinotools.com.au/product/p1-p2 ... iver-bits/
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