mikenixon wrote:
I can't tell from your question if you put each gauge on a carb and were actually syncing, or if you fed all four to one carb and were calibrating the tools. If syncing, what happened when you used the adjuster to alter the pair of carbs that included the one low-reading carb? If calibrating, what happened when you turned the low gauge's calibrating screw?
The guages in the link appear to be the ones that everyone is saying have calibration screws and at the same time are the lowest cost ones avaialable.
sorry..I was posting caffeine deficient. lol
we had them hooked up to the carbs and if we adjusted them it remained approx the same compared to the gauge for the other carb.
I didn't think about nor test the gauges in regards to calibrating them. I need to do my 82 so I will check the gauges against each other before hand.
Remember, there is no adjustment for #3. It is what it is and the other carbs need to come to it. But before you do that, get a constant vacuum source and make sure all your gauges are synced. I did mine with a mity-vac.
That’s the carb you don’t adjust - and that’s a good reading to have.
Now you have to bring 1 to 3, then 2 to 4, then even bank (2/4) to the odd bank (1/3). At least that’s how I remember it. Definitely get your self a shop manual and watch a video or two of the process.
BurnsYoFace34 wrote: ↑Sun Aug 07, 2022 6:50 pm
I have these ones from Amazon an I thought they worked great but I'm just a beginner at this but now all 4 say late timing or air leak any thoughts
Yes, all that extra paint and letters can be a mystery to a "beginner."
All you need to concentrate on is the vacuum numbers on the left side of all 4 gauge faces.
From my experience and observing others activity you will most likely be looking in the 8-10 inches of vacuum numbers IFeverything is correct in and on the engine . Detail..Details..Details
Nothing else on that gauge face applies to the engine idle speed synchronizing procedures of all 4 carburetors on your GL1000 engine.
Yea ignore the writing on the gauges just get them as close to each other as possible.
Few things: make sure the gauges read close to each other before starting. There are faulty gauges out there and if one is off you will chase your butt. Second I like to place a fan in front of the bike while doing this and sometimes hook up a trickle to the battery. Depending on the bike I have spent an hour or more to get one dialed in tight. Make sue the proper throttle cable slack is present and give the throttle a whack or two between every adjustment to ensure any slop in the linkage is removed. Make small adjustments. Every adjustment will throw others out. Check/adjust the idle after each adjustment. # 3 is adjusted only with the idle screw so basically that is the target for the others. As the synch gets closer the engine may rev. Take you time.
"Agreement is not a requirement for Respect" CDR Michael Smith USN (Ret) 2017
"The book is wrong, this whole Conclusion is Fallacious" River Tam
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2008 GL1800 IIIA "TH3DOG"
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Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!
BurnsYoFace34 wrote: ↑Mon Aug 08, 2022 2:54 pm
So pay no attention to the fact that the gauge says about late timing or vacuum leaks
Exactly. There's all kinds of info printed onto those gauges much like you'd find on a single gauge designed for diagnosing an automotive engine. When the gauges are put into multiple arrangements, those little hints don't pertain the to individual cylinders - they're just there from laziness or economy of putting the unit together.
The only info you need right now is #1 is not pulling the same as #3. That's step 1. As you get #1 closer to #3, they'll both probably be pulling 10" or so. But the exact number doesn't matter - just get them relatively equal.
