Next Generation 81' GL1100i

[wingrider]

If you started producing the IDF air box, I would certainly be interested!

[DCSparrowhawk]

If you started producing the IDF air box, I would certainly be interested!

I could make you up a set. I have a newer version id like to test first - but shoot me a PM and we can figure it out

[DCSparrowhawk]

Electronics Box Teaser

Now that I have a running and complete wiring set up, I'd really like to focus and clean the whole jumble up into a neat package. I have designed up a 3D printed polycarbonate + carbon fiber water resistant box which will be mounted to the frame underneath the faux tank. This is designed to hold the neon ignition coil, CDI boxes, and the rectifier in one neat little package. This set-up also gives me a central point on the bike to route all my "IN" wiring to the M.Unit and "OUT" wiring - forward and backwards. With the removal of the airbox and old carburetors I have a ton of space under the cap of the Faux tank. I plan to either 3D print or fashion from composite a cubby hole to which this electronics box will mount. A bit of machining for the rectifier mounting bracket needs to be done - I'll post a bunch of pictures once this mini project is complete.

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Pointless Hidden Key
For the fun of it I've designed a little "hidden key" where the aftermarket ignition key will be embedded into an aluminum cap. Throw it on the lathe, anodize it black, and then laser etch out the goldwing emblem as shown (It will be a natural aluminum colour as opposed to the black - however I dont mind the black at all if I can swing it somehow). The ignition's position when turned off will be so that the logo is right side up for the whole OEM inconspicuous look. Insurance wont be real fond of me leaving the key in the bike and though I will never be leaving the key in the bike - this is just a fun little knick knack while I wait for a few more paycheques to roll in. The little bits hopefully add up in the end.

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[robin1731]

You sure you want to put the coils, which create heat, and the rectifier, which creates heat, in an enclosed box? With other electrical components?

[Whiskerfish]

You sure you want to put the coils, which create heat, and the rectifier, which creates heat, in an enclosed box? With other electrical components?

My very first concern/thought as well.

[DCSparrowhawk]

You sure you want to put the coils, which create heat, and the rectifier, which creates heat, in an enclosed box? With other electrical components?

The coils + rectifier will be suspended in open air underneath the box - they just simply mount to the box that holds the M.Unit. The only thing enclosed is the M.Unit and a "Breakout Box". Everything else is in open flowing air.

[Whiskerfish]

[Fred Camper]

Great idea to put the hot stuff under the box and just use it for a mount and still be able to control all the wiring, since we all try to keep the smoke inside the wire.

[DCSparrowhawk]

Great idea to put the hot stuff under the box and just use it for a mount and still be able to control all the wiring, since we all try to keep the smoke inside the wire.

It may still catch on fire yet...

So let's just consider it a "WIP". Haha

[poppy60]

Nice work

[DCSparrowhawk]

Little update:

Now full swing on machining my own bits for motorbikes now. A couple updates to the bike:

Ignition switch mount and key cap

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Throttle bellcranks roughly made for mock up and feel, will be remaking fancier when I have more time to figure it out.

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Also machining my own triple clamps top and bottom. Not overly impressed with the pinch method by the previous manufacturer of the top triple, so going to a different style.

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Not a lot of progress on the build in particular, but a lot of progress developing new skills to achieve what I want to achieve. Worked for a while building experimental aircraft, got pretty good with carbon fiber and composites, did a few seasons working pit crew on a top fuel dragster. Lots of worthy life to live, not much to sit back and work on hobbies.

Things have finally settled down a bit, will be posting a lot more progress. Goal is to have it on the road running and problems sorted spring 2024.

[DCSparrowhawk]

Working on plastics/composites. Spent some time building carbon race planes, want to translate it into this project.

First attempt, will be redoing it as a proper carbon copy rather than skinning, but you can get a good idea of the visual from this piece.

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Will be doing the battery cover out of carbon, the faux tank (joined halves together, and will be making the flap out of carbon as well), and some bits here and there from compression molded carbon.

I'm considering making the Weber air box out of forged carbon as well, not at the top of the priority list but would be neat.

Modelling a rear cowl for the seat pan, if I'm going to be doing some composite work in the near future may as well do it all at once. The pan itself will be fiberglass, with the rear cowl made of carbon, bonded to the pan. Thinking of having some storage inside behind the seat to the rear of the bike.

Working on purchasing a 3D scanner to make the rear cowling as accurate as possible, will keep posted on progress.

[Fred Camper]

You have great fab skills. Looking forward to your next installment.

[LastMohawk]

Looks good so far.
I'm curious to see what the result will look like. One question about your Electronics box and the holder for the ignition coils underneath.

Motogadget writes here:
MAKE SURE THAT THE VEHICLE IS EQUIPPED WITH INTERFERENCE-SUPPRESSED SPARK PLUGS OR IGNITION CABLES. THE MINIMUM DISTANCE BETWEEN IGNITION COIL OR HIGH TENSION CABLES AND MO.UNIT MUST NOT BE LESS THAN 10CM.

Not that the ignition coils then spit in your soup.

In any case until I am curious about the result

Greeting
Harald

[DCSparrowhawk]

Looks good so far.
I'm curious to see what the result will look like. One question about your Electronics box and the holder for the ignition coils underneath.

Motogadget writes here:
MAKE SURE THAT THE VEHICLE IS EQUIPPED WITH INTERFERENCE-SUPPRESSED SPARK PLUGS OR IGNITION CABLES. THE MINIMUM DISTANCE BETWEEN IGNITION COIL OR HIGH TENSION CABLES AND MO.UNIT MUST NOT BE LESS THAN 10CM.

Not that the ignition coils then spit in your soup.

In any case until I am curious about the result

Greeting
Harald

Interesting point Harald. I am using suppression plugs and wires, however I did not consider the interference to potentially damage the M.unit. I've had the bike running for a little while in this configuration, but that doesn't mean it won't at some point cause harm.

I'll roll the dice on the interference causing any issues, but I may look into metallic insulation to shield the M.unit from RFI. Good eye!