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DS1-3 Instructions and Tips
Moderators: Whiskerfish, Forum Moderators
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- Silver Member
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- Location: Cheyenne, Wyoming
DS1-3 Instructions and Tips
When you install the DS1-3, you will be able to remove the points and the condensers. Your GL1000 will run better and you will not have to constantly adjust points. If you go a step further and replace the outdated original coils, you will be able to get rid of the ballast resistor. You really need to do this! The purpose of the ballast resistor is to limit the current to the coils under normal operation to prevent them from overheating. When you start the GL1000, the ballast resistor is bypassed while the start button is depressed to allow full current to the coils. The old coils were unable to handle the full current during normal operation. Newer coils do not typically require a ballast resistor. You can use 3 or 5 ohm coils with the DS1-3. Your battery and charging system needs to be in excellent condition for this system to work properly. Make sure all connections are clean and tight.
Replacing the coils with a set of DC1-1 coils along with getting rid of the ballast resistor is highly recommended. Getting full current to the coils all the time will make your bike run better. You can also increase the spark plug gap from .028” to .032” which will result in a hotter spark. These instructions will help you through the installation of the DS1-3 with or without upgraded coils. Here are the instructions for the DC1-1 coils: viewtopic.php?t=77232
Installation Steps:
1. Remove the left side cover and the left false tank cover. If you are replacing the coils, also remove the right false tank cover.
2. Remove the points cover.
3. Remove the point’s plate and disconnect the wires from the wiring harness under the left side cover.
4. Remove the timing advance unit and replace the original rotor with the plastic one supplied with the DS1-3 kit. You may have to remove the weights to get the original rotor off, so this is a good time to lubricate and inspect this unit. This is an important component and often overlooked when troubleshooting idle issues. If your bike is slow to return to idle or your idle is erratic, your springs may have a little slack in them. Take this opportunity to inspect and correct any issues with the advance unit at this time.
a. The springs should be snug. Not too loose and not too tight. If the springs have any slack in them the bike will have idling issues and timing the bike will be inaccurate. If there is slack, you need to remove about ½ loop of the end of each spring.
b. Turn the advance mechanism and release to make sure the unit operates smoothly.
c. Look at the shaft while the advance unit is off and verify there is a pin sticking out of the lower part of the shaft. The notch in the advance unit goes over this pin. Lubricate the shaft.
5. Remove the condensers from the battery box mount or at least disconnect the wires from the harness and tuck them away so they will not be reconnected. Note: Your DS1-3 wires will connect to these same harness connectors so make sure they are clean. The yellow wire goes to the 1-2 coil and the blue wire goes to the 3-4 coil. After the installation, these connectors will also be used to statically time the DS1-3 unit using a 12v test light with alligator leads.
6. Install the advance unit with the DS1-3 rotor. Install the hex bolt and washer at the end of the shaft. After it is tightened, you must verify the rotor will operate smoothly without any binding. For example, turn it to the fully advanced position and then release it to verify the springs are able to quickly return the rotor to the original position.
7. Install the DS1-3 plate in the position shown below. Tip: The right washer for the screw that secures the plate needs to be filed slightly so it fits better. Usually the washer diameter is slightly too large. Simply filing the edge a bit will solve the issue. Also, some of these DS1-3 plates are thinner than the original and the washer is unable to hold it in place. The solution is to slightly bend the washer so the edge will clamp down onto the plate. You need to move the wires to where they do not come into contact with the rotor. 8. Route the DS1-3 cable in the same manner as the original and connect the color coded connectors, yellow to yellow and blue to blue. The red wire needs to be connected to a switched 12VDC power source. This is an important connection because you need the full battery voltage to make the system work optimally.
9. Connecting the red DS1-3 power wire: Note: On the GL1000, solid black wires are used for 12VDC. You should connect the red wire of the DS1-3 to a black wire, but for safety reasons, you should add a 10 Amp inline fuse because the only fuse that protects the black wire, is the main fuse.
a. Option 1: The easiest and probably the best place for most people to connect the DS1-3 is on the black wire for the regulator. Find the regulator and trace the three wires back to the connector. You should attach a quick splice connector around the black wire on the harness side near the connector. b. Option 2: Another good place to make the connection is near the fuse box. The black wire connects to the fuse box via an 8-connector male plug (bottom left wire). You may need to remove some harness tape to get a small amount of slack in the black wire near the male connector. You need to install a quick splice connector around the wire and insert the red wire from the DS1-3. The quick splice connector is supplied in the DS1-3 kit.
c. Option 3: If you are using upgraded coils and have eliminated the ballast resistor you have another option using the black wire with a white stripe. This wire is goes to the coils and is controlled by the kill switch. Only use this option if you do not have a ballast resistor. The benefit of this option is when you turn the kill switch off, it removes power from the coils and also from the DS1-3. Be sure to splice in an inline 10 amp fuse to the red wire with this option.
d. Option 4: You can solder the red wire into the fuse box where the black wire terminates. See the picture of the backside of the fuse box below. The black wire powers the bottom two fuses, the 15 Amp and the 5 Amp. You still need to add the 10 amp inline fuse with this option. e. Option 5: If your GL1000 is a 1978 or 1979, you can connect the red wire to the accessory fuse box connector. You won’t need the inline fuse if you do this.
f. Option 6: There are other places where you can connect to the black wire but you are on your own…
10. If you are going to use a ballast resistor with original coils, you can replace the original with the one supplied in the DS1-3 kit or just use the original. Another option is to use both in parallel. This will reduce the resistance of the circuit and in some cases it may be a benefit to do this. It is obvious on how to replace the resistor so no further instructions are needed for this task. In any case, you should think twice about keeping the original coils and using the ballast resistor. You will be better off upgrading the coils and throwing the ballast resistor in the trash. Note: If you decide to upgrade the coils and get rid of the ballast resistor you MUST connect the two harness wires together. These are the two wires that connect to the ballast resistor cloth covered wires. One is a male (black and brown) and the other is black. Plug these two wires into each other. If you have a 1978-1979 GL1000, connect the two wires that previously connected to the ballast resistor to each other. These are both female so you have to make a small jumper wire to connect these together. See the pictures below for the 1975-1977 models. No picture for the 1978-1979 models. Timing Instructions
Note: To set the timing, you will need a simple 12vdc test light with alligator clips on each wire. This procedure is similar to setting the points, so you can refer to the manual to get familiar with the basic procedure. If you have a 1975-1977 GL1000 you can use the kick starter to turn the crank. If you have a 1978-1979 GL1000, you will need to remove the generator cover and use a 12mm socket with a ratchet to turn the crank. Be sure to only turn this clockwise or you could loosen the bolt you are turning. You also need to open the timing hole which is near the top middle portion of the engine. You will look through this hole to see the crankshaft markings. You will need the ignition switch on for this procedure.
Note: Split timing explanation: When you set the timing on a GL1000, it is important to understand split timing. Each module, 3-4 and 1-2, control two cylinders. When the crankshaft turns 360, only one cylinder will be fired at a time. So if #3 was on the compression stroke, #4 would be on the exhaust stroke. It takes two revolutions of the crankshaft to fire both cylinders for a given module. For this reason, you should check timing for the first cylinder and then turn the crankshaft another 360 degrees to verify the other cylinder is timed correctly. Theoretically, every time you rotate the crank 360 degrees, the light should come on at exactly the same point on the crank; however, that is often not the case for the GL1000. Typically, during the first rotation, the light will come on at the index mark and the second rotation it will be slightly off of the mark. Your goal should be to find the halfway point where the light comes on when comparing two revolutions. Then readjust the timing to that halfway point. You have to check and adjust a few times to get it set where both rotations will cause the light to come on at that halfway point. You can read more about split-timing on the internet to gain a better understanding.
Note: If you are using an LED type test light, connect the black wire to ground (negative). The red or positive test light lead will be used to connect to the blue/yellow harness connectors.
1. Connect one end of the test light to the blue wire connector where you connected the DS1-3 wires under the left side cover. The other end goes to ground or the negative (black) battery connection. Position the light next to the timing hole so you can see the light and the crankshaft marks at the same time. We will be setting the timing on the 3-4 cylinders first. The goal is to get the light to come on at the F2 mark as you slowly turn the crank. You slightly rotate the DS1-3 plate to adjust this setting and then tighten the set screws. You need to verify the light comes on at the F2 for two revolutions to check both cylinders. If the light comes on at a different place when you compare the first rotation from the second, you will need to estimate the halfway point and set the timing at that location. Repeat this process until you have the light coming on at exactly the same point for both revolutions. Hopefully both revolutions will cause the light to come on at the F2 mark, but don’t be surprised if you have to compromise and set it at a halfway point.
2. Next, move the test light to the yellow connector and set the timing for the 1-2 cylinders using the F1 mark. The adjustment for the 2-3 cylinder is done by moving the right module. Loosen the two right module set screws with the included hex key tool and slightly move the module, then tighten the set screws. You need to check the timing for two rotations and split time it as needed.
Last edited by cfairweather on Tue Oct 03, 2023 7:45 am, edited 3 times in total.
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- True Blue Steel Biker
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- Joined: Wed Apr 11, 2012 10:50 am
Re: DS1-3 Instructions and Tips
Well done.
Dave
1975 GL 1000
1980 XS650
1981 ct110
1972 F7 KAW 175
2000 moby blaze 40cc
Chihuahua (Ellie)
Chihuahua #2(Blaze)
1975 GL 1000
1980 XS650
1981 ct110
1972 F7 KAW 175
2000 moby blaze 40cc
Chihuahua (Ellie)
Chihuahua #2(Blaze)
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- Chrome Member
- Posts: 175
- Joined: Thu Jun 14, 2012 4:07 pm
- Location: Missouri
Re: DS1-3 Instructions and Tips
So you said most aftermarket coils don't need a ballast resistor. I have an MSD coil for a Neon on my '77 with the resistor hooked up. How would I know if it's needed or not? Thank you for the great write up.
Gator
Gator
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Re: DS1-3 Instructions and Tips
See if the instructions for that particular set of coils show using a ballast resistor. Keep in mind, you need to use 3 ohm to 5 ohm coils with the DS1-3. I am thinking the DS1-3 could be damaged if you use a resistance lower than 3 ohms but I am not sure and not going to test my theory.
- Jrod
- Tin Member
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Sun Mar 27, 2016 8:53 am
- Location: 04252
Re: DS1-3 Instructions and Tips
Hi cfairweather,
Now that you've had this ignition for awhile, how would you say it performs?
Have you been happy with it (I'm assuming this is the ebay DS1-3)?
Now that you've had this ignition for awhile, how would you say it performs?
Have you been happy with it (I'm assuming this is the ebay DS1-3)?
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- Silver Member
- Posts: 756
- Joined: Sun Apr 13, 2014 10:37 pm
- Location: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Re: DS1-3 Instructions and Tips
I have installed several of these and have had success with each one.
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