NGWClub®, Inc.

Hey if you still have the original speedo would you be interested in selling it. I have a buddy that needs one . Thanks

yes i still have the original Speedometer and Tachometer from the '80. I'm going to sell them together.
I'll sell the Speedometer from the '82 by itself because I had to botch the wire harness from it...

But the gauges are still in great condition. The '80 is IMMACULATE!

I haven't updated on my build in a while so here goes. The bike is done but I still haven't been able to start it yet! Ordered and installed new coils, wires, caps, plugs. I'm positive I now have spark at all 4 cylinders. I'm positive I have fuel. I took off the radiator and I double checked my belts, they left side was off by one tooth. Fixed that and it's still not starting. It back fired into the plenum and caught fire in the plenum. BUT I DID HAVE A FIRE EXTINGUISHER RIGHT THERE!! because I took the advice of NGWCLUB members! AND THIS SHOULD BE A REMINDER TO EVERYONE!! Always have a fire extinguisher handy when you are trying to start a newly rebuilt engine for the first time!! So anyway. No damage at all. Vacuumed out the powder and continued at it. I got a compression tester from my father-in-law and I'm going to test tomorrow. I'm not sure what else this could be. This bike is SO close to starting. It sputters and spits so much but it just doesn't run yet... I'll report more and you'll have pictures and videos of the running bike and finished product soon. Other than that, there's not much more to tell!

Sounds like plug wires on the wrong plugs. Go back and check the coil wires to make sure they are hooked up the correct module. Then check to make sure the actual plug wires are on the right plugs.

Some will say the RH goes to certain plugs and the LH coil goes to the other. That is true if the wiring has not been moved around. You need to follow the wires to make sure. Especially since you replaced the coils.

You do have a manual with a wiring diagram right?

First off, I want to say thanks to my friend Billy who came over today and helped me out. Besides some serious expertise in classic metric motorcycles he had the adapter I needed and we did a compression test. SURE ENOUGH!!!! cylinder 1, 2 & 3 were @ 120-125 pounds.. cylinder 4 was about 60-70 pounds.....
AND WITH THAT.. OUT CAME THE ENGINE AGAIN!!!
only this time I was sure to HALF THE ENGINE BLOCK!!!
So it took about 2 hours to get the engine out, another 2 hours to get everything off and get the block in half to find the problem and decide what I need.

Cylinder 4's rings are completely packed and locked in solid on the piston and they are not expanding at all.
they are not moving. I'm going to try and break they off but if I can't I'll use one of the piston's from the '82.
I'm going to order 4 new piston ring sets and re-do all 4 pistons while I have the engine open.
The bearings are good.
the rest of the block looks good, I just have to clean the inside of the rest of the rotten oil from 1987.

As for the backfire, we found the that spark advancer unit had some left over crud and oil on it. That's probably the whole reason for the back firing!!
I have to procure some electrical cleaner spray and go at that too.

update.. I got my son's baseball game, company summer picnic and all the yard work out of the way on Saturday which meant that SUNDAY was all mine!
I took out all 4 pistons and cleaned them up. I also dumped almost a whole case of CRC kleen on the inside of the block!

Let's talk about piston 4. the rings were stuck. I had to break them off. Hammer and sharp chisel.. WACK! CRACK! pieces.. still had a hard time getting them out. But they came out. I cleaned it up VERY nicely! when I installed the new rings I made sure they moved smoothly all around. I also made sure that I installed the top ring in the top groove and the bottom ring in the bottom groove with the proper offsets according to the manual. yes i put the oil rings in the correct Groove as well! Then I did the other 3 pistons. I used plenty of CRC kleen and cleaned out all the Grooves with a nylon brush. SPOTLESS!! just like this pic of piston 4.

I also installed a new Crank Shaft Oil Seal because I didn't halve the block before.

Once the rings were installed, I had to Hone the cylinders. Napa has a cheep $20 one thats good for pistons 2" to 4 or 5" in diameter. SOLD.
now i have here a picture of piston 4 BEFORE and AFTER honing. It LOOKS like it's horrible and pitted but it's not. It's just like stained or something from being that way for 20 some odd years!!
The other 3 cylinders came out great. They all look like this other picture. The criss cross pattern is clear and obvious. I found a few videos on how to do this on youtube and bam. Easy as PIE!

So then I found this tiny little pin laying on the table!! HOLY CRAP! WHERE THE HELL DID THIS COME FROM! i can't put the case together before i find out where this came from. I posted on Facebook and i found out in the manual and Grizzily Old Hippy confirmed my findings online. It's a pin from the main oil pump shaft that runs all the way through the engine case from front to back. I think its in the left side. So I'm wondering HOW THE HELL THAT FELL OUT!?? it's really in there and the oil pump rotor never fell out. So I had to take out the entire oil pump and put in the new gaskets.

Then I followed this guys 3 part video series on rebuilding a GL1000 Goldwing engine
http://youtu.be/9DGNEngFPks
http://youtu.be/dEBd7LikkD0
http://youtu.be/xe4j_51lMNs

and i also posted a video of my own on Facebook. I bought a $10 piston ring compressor and it BROKE the first time I put the damn thing on!
SO since I bought (2) 4" hose clamps so I could put the 2 halves of the block back together like in the video, I just used one to put the pistons in through the outside of the right side case to the crank! SO MUCH EASIER!!!!

Yesterday I spent 8 hours getting the repairs done to piston 4 and getting the block back together. By the way, forgot to mention i used Hondabond 4.
found it on amazon prime. 2 day shipping. STUFF IS AWESOME.

I moved the block back inside and onto the jackstand at the end of the day. The rest of the assembly will take place here on the jack stand.
Tonight I was able to the heads back on.
timing belts
front engine cover (with new gasket because i tore the last new gasket)
thermostat & coolant tubes

moved on to the rear cover
i put the starter back in with the starter sprocket
clutch basket with oil chain and scavenger pump gear on.
figured out the cerclip removal and install for the clutch basket by the way! so easy when you know what the CERCLIP looks like!
i put everything back together with the clutch plates.. but now i'm at a stand still. BECAUSE I LOST THE FREAKING SOCKET I MADE!!!!!

Great work, Sly Dog. And good use of resources at hand.

Roady, check your PMs.

Gord

Sure thing ... G'mornin Sunshine.

Searched the entire garage.. DAMN THOSE NINJA GARAGE MONKEYS!!!!

had to make a new Clutch center nut socket this morning in the maintenance shop.
for reference.. you should use a 25mm socket.
Again, I didn't have a 25mm, so I had to use another 24mm socket and shave the inside of the teeth a little bit.
fits like a glove..

Awesome. It looks like a full day a full gallop!

Couple questions. You said you put the rings in the correct groove. Good. Did you make sure you had them right side up? There is a top and a bottom.

Also, you put the rings on before you honed the cylinders. But did you measure ring end gap in each cylinder? That is a pretty important step and they need to the right gap. A little too much isn't bad but too tight can cause big headaches.

Oh CRAP!!!!!!!!! There's a TOP AND BITTOM!? WTF!!!

And ring GAP!?!?

SOAB!