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robin1731 wrote:

5speed wrote:Andy..jack the front of the bike up until the weight is off the front wheel.

That was my next thought. But then I thought, he surely has a jack or something under the bike to take the load off the front end.

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I hope it is jacked!
But at the same time, the original spring would have fly out and hit the roof if he removed the upper cap with the forks compressed!

Steevensi wrote:

robin1731 wrote:

5speed wrote:Andy..jack the front of the bike up until the weight is off the front wheel.

That was my next thought. But then I thought, he surely has a jack or something under the bike to take the load off the front end.

.

I hope it is jacked!
But at the same time, the original spring would have fly out and hit the roof if he removed the upper cap with the forks compressed!

I tried all of what you guys suggested. The only 2 things I can think of is..

* Kink in the fork leg at the point the spring stops.
* Diameter of new spring is too wide. Wirth say its within tolerance.

Oh, and if i leave the bike on the side stand and take the caps off (one side at a time) the forks with the original spring in they only pop up about an inch

Did you measure both the stock springs and the new ones to see if they are the same diameter? I.D. and O.D. What about the length? It would have to be a very bad "kink" for the springs not to go in.

And really they should be on the center stand with weight off of the front end to do this. On the side stand there will be some weight on them even one at a time. Even on the center stand if you don't put a jack under the engine and take all the load off the front end.
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are the springs doing the same thing in both forks?

As some of you may have read, i was having fork issues. I figured a way to cure it but need an answer for the collective.

Will my front interstate wheel fit any 39mm forks from the 1000 to the 1100?

The 1100 forks are a larger diameter than the 1000, and IMHO, it would be best (and easiest) to stay with 1100 forks. To use 1000 forks, you would need to change the triple tree, as well. All years of 1100 forks will fit your wheel, but only the '83 forks have the anti-dive feature.

Track T 2411 wrote:The 1100 forks are a larger diameter than the 1000, and IMHO, it would be best (and easiest) to stay with 1100 forks. To use 1000 forks, you would need to change the triple tree, as well. All years of 1100 forks will fit your wheel, but only the '83 forks have the anti-dive feature.

I hate the antidive, it looks bad and it probably doesnt work>

UK_Andy wrote:

Track T 2411 wrote:The 1100 forks are a larger diameter than the 1000, and IMHO, it would be best (and easiest) to stay with 1100 forks. To use 1000 forks, you would need to change the triple tree, as well. All years of 1100 forks will fit your wheel, but only the '83 forks have the anti-dive feature.

I hate the antidive, it looks bad and it probably doesnt work>

I guess " Like " is in the eye of the beholder. I have it on my 78......and it DOES work.....very well

I didn't think I would like it, but now that I have one with it and one without it, I like it a lot and don't like the feeling of no anti-dive at all on my 77. It makes me think I'm going over the bars on hasty stops. It is a pretty simple mechanism that operates it and with occasional cleaning works well.

I wish I had it on my 78. Going aggressively into a corner with the front end compressed from braking sucks. I have found on these that I often have to give it a throttle blip just to set the suspension after braking before I enter.

Iv seen and heard much talk of hydraulic clutch conversion on the GL1100 by using GL1200 parts.

Has anyone done it like this on a GL1100?

Iv bought LED indicators for my bike, can anyone point me in the direction of the correct resistors to use please?

I don't use resistors. Just get an electronic flasher that works with LED's. Any auto parts store should have them.

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UK_Andy wrote:Iv bought LED indicators for my bike, can anyone point me in the direction of the correct resistors to use please?

Get an 3-prong LED flasher, ~$10 on Amazon. Adding resistors sort of defeats the purpose of going with LEDs. I swapped to LEDs to lower the amp-draw, but adding resistors will raise your amp-draw back to what it was with incandescents... and they are more of a PITA to install.

robin1731 wrote:I don't use resistors. Just get an electronic flasher that works with LED's. Any auto parts store should have them.

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One of these?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CF13-3-Pin-Ad ... SwIgNXtWG4