NGWClub®, Inc.

Use the standard GL1200 master cylinder.
Levers can be original or any number of after market types such as the dog-leg ones fitted to mine.
If you are doing the actual clutch which it sounds like you need to, do the damper mod as well.
http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=16877

Don't reckon on this conversion being much lighter than the cable; it isn't.

For the forks. The bushes in the sliders are not replaceable.

CMS has a new left slider at only 75 euros, about $110 but not a right one.
http://www.cmsnl.com/products/case-lbottom_51521371003/
David Silver has one at £35 /$ 58
http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/parts/part_34090/


Right one in France at 90 euros
http://www.gold-en-stock.com/product_details.php?id=406

Fork tubes/stanchions can either be rechromed back to size or there are pattern ones available. the tubes from 75-79 interchange although they have different part numbers, changing in 78.

http://www.fastfromthepast.com/PDF/Chro ... e_List.pdf at $130 each
or from David Silver again at $110 each
http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/parts/part_31998/

Gets expensive doesn't it

Try Dave or Frank at http://www.cyclepsycho.com//, see if they can come up with a decent set.

OF...Are you saying that the squeeze of the hydraulic is no easier on the hands than the cable was?

kitbutterfield wrote:OF...Are you saying that the squeeze of the hydraulic is no easier on the hands than the cable was?

It is, but not by a lot!
Remember though, I have a problem with my left hand, arthritis in the big bottom thumb joint which leaves my grip with that hand poor.

Let's put it this way. I bought stronger clutch springs (before I had done the conversion), fitted them and promptly took them back out again to fit the standard ones when I did the bench testing of the system.

If you are hoping to get the sort of very light clutch action you get on later bikes you are going to be disappointed. These later clutches use a diaphragm spring to get a high clamping pressure with a low lever pressure.

Interesting...Thanks, for the heads-up!

Thanks Mr. Fogey, great information. I might just stick with my cable, on further inspection it seems to be routed wrong, I am finding more and more of stuff on this bike is jigballed, andI found a hole rubbed in where it goes back of the headlght. I just want to get it so I can have some seat time befor I turn into a winter project!

Ya see I have PMS bad ( parked motorcycle syndrom) Ye Haw

Any way I can see U are a wealth of info, ausom. As well as some other cats on this site! Thats just cool beans! I love it! I may be peelin one of these down later on ,( tryin to work a deal on a non running unit) Its gonna be fun! Life is good!

Run em to the peg!

OH ya, I realize all bout the cubic dollars!

Thanks

can this conversion be made with the motor in the frame, and just pull the rear wheel to gain access?

You can make the slave cylinder conversion in the frame, but not the clutch.

thank's sunnbobb. I am seriously thinking about converting my 78 wing to hydraulic clutch. It is really stiff right now and slow on release. Maybe that is the nature of a clutch that's not hydraulic I don't know. I have ridden a 1100 goldwing and it didn't seem as stiff.

If you want it to be really smooth, go for the full conversion.

I would like to do the full converson and it sounds like it would be worth pulling the motor and getting it on the bench, but I have never been into a clutch and am not quite sure what changes I would have to make to the 84 hydraulic clutch to make it work. I read Johns (Old Fogey's) instructions and they are great but I got a little confused on what changes you have to make to the 84 pressure plate and the rod that activates it.

I hate to sound stupid but I have a question, just to be sure in my little mind. If I am understanding the full conversion right, (84 1200 clutch into my 78), the only changes I would need to make to the 84 clutch assy is fitting the 1200 pressure release plate with the 1000's pushrod cup bearing, and use the 1000's pushrod? Then I could use the 1200 master cylinder and hyd line?

If you are installng the entire clutch assembly, You will use the push pin from the 1200, as well as the slave cylinder. Nothing from the 1000 remains.

Sorry to be so late into this; my PC took a severe hissy fit so I've been off line a while.

You have two choices when it comes to the pressure release plate; either use the 1000 one complete or fit the pushrod cup from it to the 1200 one, as they interchange.

As for the pushrod, the best way is 'quote Sunnbob'
"Begin with a raw 5/16" diameter 304 stainless steel round rod. Cut the rod to 42mm, then round and polish both ends. The idea is to get the push rod to extend the same distance into the clutch as the original cable driven clutch."

I used a cut down 1200 rod but then found I had to add a collar to the thin part to keep it centralised in the cup.

wow this is fantastic to get knowledge like this from the guys that have done it. I knew I was confused on the pushrod cup bearing and the pushrod. So the only modifications I would have to make to the 1200 clutch is install the pushrod cup bearing in the 1200 pressure plate and use a 5/16" x 42mm long pushpin like sunnbobb described making in the partial conversion?

That will work. I have been away from this conversion so long my mind is going blank.