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I like electricity till i get caught between it and ground. More to my point, does using this type of regulator give me more watts for more or bigger toys?

I'm curious about more power too for extras, could use it on gl1000. So this is essentially a plug and play operation correct? No adjustments need to be made to any other parts of the bike?

Still learning lots! Thank you gentlemen.

So on my '77 GL1000 this wires up like and bolts in the place where my rectifier is in front of the battery cage. Then I just unplug and remove my regulator, or do I need to jump the plug?

Try searching for other posts. I think Fred camper and gregforesi have both done it.

Thought I would try and clear up something about whether these Shindengen FET regulators should be considered "series" or "shunt" regulators.

Here is a screen capture from the Shindengen web site, where they try to explain their 3 types of regulator/rectifiers: The schematic diagrams clearly show that the FET type regulators replace the normal rectifier diodes with FETs. They are in series with the windings and the output. Even though Shindengen uses the terms "short" and "shunt style", they work by varying the conduction of current between the generator and the output. They do not actually short the generator output in any way. Notice that this type is the only one of the 3 regulator types labeled "low loss" and "high currentization". I think their Japanese-English translator invented the word "currentization", but it probably means "more current". In fact, terminology translation is probably what caused the confusion about series and shunt. But judging by the schematics, these units definitely operate as series type regulators!

Been running that kind of conversion on mine for a while now.

http://www.wingovations.com/#/regulator ... 4547649217

EDIT: Er ...no, I haven't. Didn't read the thread properly at the beginning!

Would anyone have the part number for the 50amp. Thanks JB

Hey JBz
The FH012 and FH020 are rated 50 amps continuous charge with 1 m/s airflow over it. This guy sells them new with connector for about $125: http://www.roadstercycle.com/index.htm
Also noticed that he sells a pretty interesting system for mounting a fuel injector inside a CV carb: http://www.roadstercycle.com/yamaha_vma ... cv_car.htm

I watched with interest the shindengen mosfet upgrades on here. The information you provide is interesting. I was under the impression that the FH regulators were in fact shunt. The roadstercycle website indicates this. I went with the cycle electric from roadstercycle for just that reason. If there's now a mosfet that is true series, that would indeed be the stuff.

Well, my opinion about all this is a little controversial!
In summary, my (controversial) opinion is that the FH series and the SH775 work the same way, on the same "series" principal. And that the only real difference between the two is the type of "active device" used. The FH series uses MOSFET's and the SH775 uses SCR's. Otherwise, both regulate by allowing, or disallowing, current to go from the generator to the output.
But, can't really quote anything from Shindengen to support my opinion, other than their schematic diagrams.

anyone try these?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRIUMPH-PODTRON ... RK:MESE:IT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRIUMPH-BSA-NOR ... 9364708%26

Well, have to admit I was wrong about the MOSFET regulators being series type, they are definitely shunt type.
The following posts are pretty convincing: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/sh ... p?t=209843
As good as the FH0012 type regulators are, the SH775 can provide nearly the same power output with less waste heating of the stator.
Still not sure if the SH775 can be called "better" yet, has not been on the market very long.
One nice thing, it's only $73 from a Polaris dealer!

Do you feel the Mosfet to still be a better situation than the OEM setup?

I picked up the sh type for 35 bucks and 10 shipping supposedly only a 1000 miles from a 03 600rr on ebay. I haven't mounted it yet. It has big fat spades for the 3 wires. If I had the female pigtail off the stator I wouldn't even solder these. The Stock one on Rhonda overcharges and I had to fill the battery 3 times on my trip back east. I hope I got the right one sh678fa 3.3. Ill try it soon. Cant say im nuts about Polaris products .JB

Everyone seems to agree that the MOSFET types produce more voltage at idle, have less electrical noise, and will not overcharge modern sealed batteries, as compared with earlier oem types.
The new SH775 seems to have all the same advantages as MOSFETs, but can also reduce power usage when total current demands are low (mainly when headlights are off).
In future, this new type regulator, when combined with new high strength magnets could allow almost full power to be produced at idle (without destroying itself at high rpm), so the oem's are interested in that.