NGWClub®, Inc.

and here are just some other pics i may have left out so far.

I'm done posting pictures and that's enough of a start for this thread for now.

BUT I want to take a moment to say thank you to everyone and especially the moderators and experts who keep this site running and everyone who has helped me throughout my work on my past bike and my current bike!

I want to say thank you to Richard and Randakk. Wiskerfish and Roady. HOTT, Sunbob, roncar, Octane, everyone!!! Every single person who has submitted a picture of a bike that has helped inspire me with an idea for my bike. Taking weight off, lowering this, enhancing that. Drag bars, bar end mirrors, the right shocks, the right relay flasher, It's easier to do it this way, Print the manual and keep it on the bench with you!! all of that!! without you guys, i wouldn't have a clue!! I started from absolutely NOTHING. Before i had a Honda Goldwing I knew NOTHING about motorcycles. And I really mean that! And here I am tearing apart the heads and having them resurfaced for a rebuild!! I AM A COMPUTER SYSTEMS ADMINISTRATOR FOR A HUGE DATA CENTER FOR A LIVING!! AND NONE OF THIS AWESOME STUFF WOULD BE POSSIBLE and I wouldn't be able to call EVERY SINGLE INCH of this bike my own without you guys!!

you all rock!
And if I ever get to meet you guys i would buy each and every single one of you a round!! CHEERS!

You're doing an awesome job Jeff. Cutting and polishing a diamond ain't easy, but you're making it look that way.

(Say, are you interesting in parting with those Shoei bags and mounts?)

Everything that is not going back on the bike is going up for sale. Let's keep it in private messages or look for them at the end of the rebuild. As for the bags. RAT contacted me yesterday and he was interested. No numbers have been discussed. So I'll let you know later.

I want to keep this thread for the build

Thanks

Today I had an interesting day.. It was nice enough outside I took some parts outside for some cleaning. I got the Breakkleen you guys recommending and I used up 6 cans in a flash! It was worth it! I thought the engine was clean before.. I WAS WRONG!! I took all the covers and cleaned them. I got the heads back from the machine shop. They fixed the broken bolt I snapped off in the coolant intake and they resurfaced both of them. I can see my FACE in them now!! I still have to clean and polish the wheels but they were in the way so I rolled them out and took a pic for fun.

THEN disaster happened....
when I tried to lift the floor jack over the lip of the garage.... the engine rolled off the jack and out onto the drive way!!!


I FREAKED OUT!!!
but only for a few mins...
no damage.. except to my driveway!

So what's done was done.. while it was upside down, I took more cleaner and a wire brush and cleaned the bottom!!! lol
picked it up and got it back on the jack.. The engine is only about 100-125 pounds when all the stuff is off and it's just the block.

and then I started rolling the jack onto my moving blanket and the moving blanket folded over a little... so I lifted the jack a tiny bit.. yup...
dumped the engine a 2nd time..

That time I left it on the floor and decided while it's upside down.. I'll scrape the left over gasket off of the front of the block where the front cover goes.. i needed to go out and get a heavy duty gasket scraper because i couldn't get a razor blade in there. no big deal.. my tool box needed one anyway.

Anyone recognize this?

I found it on the floor under the engine while i was cleaning. I'm not sure if it came from the bike or not.

So after I was done cleaning and fed the family.. I opened up the engine gasket kit and started reassembling the heads.
Did I install the springs the right way?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zlmE_CMWz2Q

I can't figure out how to embed the youtube video into my post so I'm just putting the link..

When i opened up the gasket kit to get the valve seals there was one bag full of o-rings.. OH MY GOD...
talk about intimidating! there's like 50 o-rings!! I have no idea how I'm going to figure out where they all go!
I'm so paranoid I'm going to miss one!!

Anyway, I was lucky that I left one of the oil passages intact. There are 2 o-rings on them right? Cuz there in there now!!
I just keep following the manual.
after I got the valves re-insalled in the heads, I re-installed them with the new head gaskets and torqued them down to 40 ft lb each.
but now i have a new problem.
my Torque wrench is actually the 1/2" that starts at 50ftlb.. i need to get the smaller one.
and then there's the 10mm bolt at the bottom of the heads!! the manual says to torque it to 8ftlb???
really?! just 8?!
that doesn't seem right.

So then i was about to start re-installing the cams but they have to be torqued to a lower pound than 40.. so i'll get the wright wrench before i start.
also i wanted to ask you guys.. since i didn't take the cams OUT of the seals.. do I need to replace the seals? Can I just re-install these the way they are?
I didn't clean them at all. they didn't really need anything and i didn't want to mess with valve clearance.

one more shot of the cams..
and i also took apart the fuel pump and cleaned and rebuilt it.

Jeff yes, yes, yes replace the cam seals. Do you want to trust a 30 year old seal? If they didn't come in the kit go get a FelPro set for $10 or less. Replace the crank seal too. I hope the engine didn't bounce off the stator at all.

The little key in your hand is off the front of a cam. It aligns the pulley.

What's the big deal about valve clearance? You need to do it regardless ... and especially since you've replaced the head gaskets. Read the tutorial, there's not a whole lot to it.

Go back and retorque the head bolts. There was a bulletin that came out years ago referenced in our shoptalk section. New settings should be 42-45 lbs-ft. And the small bolt bottom bolt is only 6mm. Standard torque on those is 90-100 lbs-in. When you get new torque wrenches make sure you get something that has a much lower setting than what you will need. Don't get a wrench that starts at 40 lbs-ft to torque something at 45 lbs-ft. Get one that starts at 20 lbs-ft if you can get it. Also the same for the lbs-in wrench. Torque wrenches are one tool you don't skimp on. All of mine came off of tool trucks. Snap-on, Mac.

OK I just want to double check. Randakk's site says I only need 2 cam seals
91209-371-003
Napa replacement part according to Randakk is ATM 2117994
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Catal ... 0257031515

Do I need to replace anything on the back of the cams? new end caps?

Jimmy said to replace the crank seal too... but is that really necessary?! I'm not opening the case!!??

Robin, i'll go out and get a new torque wrench.. maybe i can return this new one. i've only used it twice. i got it at Lowes.

Again 30 year old seal, all you have to do is slide the crank gear off and replace the seal. On the back just put a very thin film of black RTV on the cap. I didn't pull heads or split the case but I did put on new cam and crank seals.

Jeff as an auto tech every time I replaced timing belts I recommended the owner replace all wearable parts behind the belt including seals and water pump. I have seen it to many times they do belt and within 5-10k miles they are returning cause of oil leaks from these seals.

These are available through O'Reilly or AZ come as a pair Fel-Pro #TCS 45718 .

crank seal I matched up size on eBay, NAPA #13954 (35x55x8)