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Does it just not go down under 2k or, does it clatter or die when you try to slow it?

Could be a number of different things depending on the symptoms.

Roady,
I adjusted the throttle cable and synchronized the carbs and the bike idles great.
I've taken the bike out a few times now and I've noticed a little hesitation in the middle throttle range. It seems to get worse as the bike warms up. I'm going to adjust the air/fuel mixture screws and see if this helps out.

I would appreciate and other suggestions you might have.

Thanks for you help.

Jeff

The pilot screws only affect idle, IIRC.

You might want to check your float levels. You can do that by removing the drain screws and inserting some clear plastic tubing, 1/4" I believe. With that method you don't have to remove the carbs.

Did you use the original jets?

I changed all the jets and cleaned all four carburetors.
The hesitation was worse before I rebuilt the carbs. The bike runs much better, but there's still a slight hesitation. I added seafoam to the gas when I filled up the other day, so I'm going to ride it for a few days and see if that helps. If that doesn't do the trick-I'll check the float levels.

Thanks!

I rode the Wing over 100 miles the past few days and the hesitation is really bad at 1/4 throttle. While riding at a consistent speed I have to adjust the throttle to get out of that sputtering/hesitation range. The bike pulls hard when I open the throttle and it idles good. Does this sound like a float bowl adjustment issue?

Thanks

I think it could be a float level problem.

Or if that's not it I'd suspect a faulty jet. The new, aftermarket jets are not as accurate as the original Honda ones.

You should probably post your data in the Tech Discussions forum. It'll get more attention from the "real" carb experts in there.

Thanks Steve.
I'll post something in the Tech forum.

Jeff

Roady,

Nice presentation on carb rebuilding.

Questions.... Have you encountered the problem where the slow fuel jets would not come out even though they turn counter clockwise? Seems every one of the slow fuel jets on my 764A carbs are acting in this manner. Service Manual says they should drop out after unscrewing, but there has been alot of corrossion present in these carbs and I fear the aluminum threads are gone. Should I just drill and easy-out them, then use case savers and replace with new jets?

The history of these carbs is unknown, picked up this '77' in a trade and thought it would be a good winter project.

Thanks

I'm no expert on the GL1000 carbs.

But I suspect that one will be along shortly to answer your question.

The idle jets are the only ones you can not access from the top to push out. Is that what you are talking about? Usually a good knock on the bench and they fall right out. Also you can use Air Pressure to blow them out. I think that circuit goes out to the brass elbow fitting on the side of the carb. A bit of air in there should pop them out but use extreme caution to ensure you catch them. They are small buggers and can get seriously lost in a shop.

Excellent instructions Roady! After getting Randaak's kit and using Howards book and then redo'ing using your instructions here's hoping. But before I put them back on the bike I have a couple questions.

When trying to do Alley Kat's bench sync I couldn't tighten the throttle stop screw enough to get the pin through the bottom at all. It did work measuring the top though so I did that on all four but is that a sign something else is out? If my photo displays okay you can see from the #1 arrow I still didn't have room to put the spring back onto the stop screw either.

My other question is about the choke tab that depresses the throttle slightly. If I manually rotate the choke as far as possible (#2) it still doesn't make contact with the throttle tab (#3) to push it open some. Again, is something else slightly out.

Thanks for all the assistance.

In my instrux I noted that you need to prop the tip of the throttle screw open with something, I used the handle of a paintbrush. Then you can fine tune the screw to get clearance on #3's butterfly. The screw should not have to be turned in that far. It might have something to do with your choke clearance, not sure on that one.

Great job...Illustrations...AS GOOD AS CHILTON....thanks for the info,this is where I am on my 77 gl1000.

Hi I had a very bad carb overhaul 1983 gw 1100 by a so called repair shop in Prescott valley az they refused to repair and moved to another location to burn again.
I pulled the carbs split the plenum and discovered a large fuel o ring on #3 card crushed so my question is are these special o rings or can I use the same size I can get from ace hardware
For about .56 cents sorry about the complaint but why screw a fellow biker.

Thx scot

So sorry to hear about your bad experience.

Moving on ... you could probably get away with a locally sourced o-ring, as long as it is rated for gasoline. The usual trouble with the ones from the auto stores is that they are not always the same thickness.

Good luck with that.