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Roady wrote:I can't answer for sure ... it's been a long time since I did mine and since I'm of a certain age ... um ... what was the question?

Roady,

I used your directions when doing my pump job and also referenced Randakks comments http://www.randakks.com/TechTip75.htm at his site. Both are good, but I felt your review was the stronger of the two. If I may, I'd like to suggest the following:

In Randakks review, he offers this:

"6. A handheld impact driver is mandatory to remove the Phillips-head fasteners used to secure the front cover on early models. You will need an assortment of extensions and properly sized #3 Phillips bits to work around frame members. A "wobble" extension helps a bit. One fastener is best reached by a small vice grip.

7. Whacking with an impact driver and a fresh Phillips bit hardly ever fails. But, if a screw stymies you, try Howard Halasz's Bingo Method:

a. Place a flat head drift or punch on the screw head and strike the opposite end of the punch with a steel head hammer. A piece of 5/16" steel round bar, approx. 8" long, makes a near perfect punch for this purpose.

b. Strike the punch hard enough to slightly deform the cross point on the screw head.

c. Then place the screwdriver on the screw head.

d. Strike the handle end of the screwdriver with your hammer. This will reform the cross point and also break any corrosion buildup on the screw threads. BINGO!! Now the screw will come out rather easily!

Note from Pete Boody:

"Another mechanical benefit of a strategic smack with a solid steel punch is that it slightly compresses and deforms the aluminum cover directly beneath the screw as well as the seal. Because some of the screws are directly behind the frame cross bar tube a shaped tool can also work. The one that I use has been ground to miss the tube allowing the impact to be straight on."

8. If the impact driver and Howard's Bingo Method fail to yield good results (unlikely), the best course is to remove the head of the offending screw so you can get the cover off. The best way to get the head off is with a small cut-off wheel on a Dremel. A hand held jab saw (hacksaw blade with a handle one end) or a good chisel will also work. Once you get the head of the screw off and remove the front cover, that takes the tension off the screw threads. There should be a small portion sticking out of the case that you can grab with Vice-grips. The screw remnant should come out easily now. If it doesn't, you should heat it with a propane torch. A few heat cycles will usually free it. Worst case scenario would be the Easy-Out method, but at least you now have better access with the cover out of the way.

9. Unless you have a show bike, strongly consider using new hex-head fasteners to replace those Phillips-head fasteners. If you stick with the Phillips-head fasteners, use new ones. Regardless, an anti-seize compound is advised during reassembly."

When I replaced my pump, I found the removal of the Phillips screws to be especially difficult. Even after soaking the area for several days with various fluids, two remained. When I read the info. above (especially the 'Howard Halasz's Bingo Method' with explanation by Pete Broody) I was successful. Striking the screws in this manner has immediate results and they come right out. May I suggest that you include this section in your instructions?

That's a very good method and I'm happy it worked for you. However, I do not feel that I have the right to include those in my writeup. Instead, I will add a link to your post as you have given credit to the source.

Thank you.

Good write-up. Thanks. Does anyone have the part number for the water pump seal? (82GL1100) I have all the other parts, o-rings, etc on order at my dealer, but could not find either the picture or the part number in the online parts pics.

Thanks.

Edit: Oil Seal 10x25x7 Part #91207-580-003

I have not used an impact driver much. That said I tried using an impact hand drive for a couple hours and got one screw of the 9 loose. Then I looked at a YouTube video called "How to use an impact driver on seized screws".

The author (backyardmech) mentioned that during use, torque the impact driver left before the hammer strike.

I was not doing that. Once I started doing the left torque, the first three screws I tried came out with about 5 hits. Way less force than I had been using before torquing left. Now, many on the board already know this tip. But for neophytes like me it was a nice lesson.

Randell has moved his tech tips, and they are now on his blog site. The one referenced above I believe is at:
http://www.randakksblog.com/water-pump- ... #more-1093

And grind a little bit off the tip of the phillips head supplied with the impact driver ..... these are JIS screws afterall.

Gord

RAT wrote:And grind a little bit off the tip of the phillips head supplied with the impact driver ..... these are JIS screws afterall.

Gord

This is a good tip but all of the bits I've gotten for my hand impact already were flat on the end. So they fit pretty well. Just check them before you try them.

And Fred Camper, sometimes we just figure everyone knows how to use certain tools. It's good to let us know that we are wrong sometimes on that.

RAT wrote:And grind a little bit off the tip of the phillips head supplied with the impact driver ..... these are JIS screws afterall.

Gord

Great write up....I'm waiting on my #3 and # 4 JIS bit to come in the mail that I plan to use on my impact driver. I might smack them and heat them first. In any case, I think it will be a challenging operation! I have the dremel ready if needed and some easy outs. Thanks to Robin for supplying us with some nice stainless steel allen replacements!

Question on the "0" rings......looks like only one dowel (upper left while sitting on the bike) needs an "0" ring seal, the others do not
http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/download/file.php?id=2099

Correct ......

Gord

Thanks Gord!

Also nice tutorial located here:

http://www.randakksblog.com/water-pump- ... #more-1093

Worked a bit on the water pump replacement today. I have six of the nine boogers loose on the front engine cover. The tough ones are along the top.

I was only able to reach one of the top bolts using my pneumatic impact gun, but it worked like a charm. The others will need a different approach.
The JIS bits were worth waiting for, as I have not had any cam outs.

With all these kits which available for sale, I see 4 washers. What is the location/purpose of the largest of the 4?

Need to measure it to be certain but I believe it is the coolant drain plug. Should be a soft aluminum. Item # 10 in the very first picture of the first post in this thread.

Could someone direct me to where to buy the allen head bolts for the transmission cover. I would like to replace the ones with the JIS heads for obvious reasons. I read on another site that someone on this site might be selling them or able to direct me to someone that currently is selling them???

Thanks

Robin1731 sells a bolt kit. He has a post in the four sale forum. You can also find his profile by going back in this thread several posts.